OK with the engine off and clutch down is it still difficult?

If yes then it's linkage or possibly shift fork problems

If no then it's clutch drag or the input shaft needs shimming up.

OK with the engine off and clutch down is it still difficult?

If yes then it's linkage or possibly shift fork problems

If no then it's clutch drag or the input shaft needs shimming up.

 

With the engine off it is fine no problems at all; as I have mentioned before I did originally suspect the selector shaft had play which is why i bought the shim and cap, however when i popped the cap off there was zero play - i could not budge it at all ?

Forgive my stupidity as i have no idea what im talking about... but... was the car not left in gear or somthing when you checked which means it wouldnt have play in the shaft because it had "weight" on it? if you know what i mean. I would expect some slight play anyway after X amount of miles.

With the engine off it is fine no problems at all; as I have mentioned before I did originally suspect the selector shaft had play which is why i bought the shim and cap, however when i popped the cap off there was zero play - i could not budge it at all ?

There should be a small out of play. Only a few mm. Mine was rock solid due to an over shimmed diff. Have you still got the old clutch and flywheel? Could refit them to see if that solves it, if not then its gearbox.

When you say no play how exactly did you test it ? A few I've done I've had in neutral and just put my finger inside the hollow shaft and pulled/pushed it.

How about getting someone to push the clutch down while you try it again..

Other problems could be..

Clutch plate tight on the splines

Warped/faulty pressure plate

Warped flywheel

Hydraulics not pushing the clutch far enough (I've seen a shim for this)

Drive plate problem ie spring broken and causing drag.

Notice how all these require the box taking back out except the shaft play and making sure it's bled ok..

Oh little tip for bleeding it..

Get a mate to pump the pedal 4 times quickly and hold it down on the last pump then open the bleed nipple, beware the fluid will shoot out but this will get any air our that's stuck in the slave cylinder. The pedal will be stuck down afterwards so once the nipped is tight again just flick the pedal back up with your hand etc.

When you say no play how exactly did you test it ? A few I've done I've had in neutral and just put my finger inside the hollow shaft and pulled/pushed it.

How about getting someone to push the clutch down while you try it again..

Other problems could be..

Clutch plate tight on the splines

Warped/faulty pressure plate

Warped flywheel

Hydraulics not pushing the clutch far enough (I've seen a shim for this)

Drive plate problem ie spring broken and causing drag.

Notice how all these require the box taking back out except the shaft play and making sure it's bled ok..

Oh little tip for bleeding it..

Get a mate to pump the pedal 4 times quickly and hold it down on the last pump then open the bleed nipple, beware the fluid will shoot out but this will get any air our that's stuck in the slave cylinder. The pedal will be stuck down afterwards so once the nipped is tight again just flick the pedal back up with your hand etc.

Many thanks for the info. To test the shaft play i popped the cover off left in neutral then tried fingered it (lol) and couldnt move it at all. Darkside said thwy will look at it but will be 3 weeks until i cam get it to them. Ive had enough of it just need it sorting now.

As said in my project thread, we have a winner!!!!!!!!!!! The gearbox fluid change has solved all of my gear selection issues, and also made the shifts nicer. Result! (hope i have not spoken too soon!)

As said in my project thread, we have a winner!!!!!!!!!!! The gearbox fluid change has solved all of my gear selection issues, and also made the shifts nicer. Result! (hope i have not spoken too soon!)

Do I get a prize at all?

An extra like on your account

I've just checked euro car parts and they don't sell it so will try opie oils, never used them before...

Got a link to the exact item?

Oh and they suggest 75w90

I've just checked euro car parts and they don't sell it so will try opie oils, never used them before...

Got a link to the exact item?

 

I've used Opie Oils. Had good service from them.

Tried 3 different places, last one was quite helpful saying they replaced 75w80 with 75w90 fully synthetic as its better in almost every way

I'm wondering if it's not really the type that's helping rather the fact it's just had a gearbox oil change that's helped?

Tried 3 different places, last one was quite helpful saying they replaced 75w80 with 75w90 fully synthetic as its better in almost every way

I'm wondering if it's not really the type that's helping rather the fact it's just had a gearbox oil change that's helped?

No mine had pretty fresh 75W90 in it when I bought it,recommended for the Peloquin LSD,but I hated the notchy gear change cold so swapped to 75W80 and been mint since

I've just checked euro car parts and they don't sell it so will try opie oils, never used them before...

Got a link to the exact item?

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fuchs-TITAN-SINTOFLUID-SAE-75W-80-Manual-Transmission-Fluid-MTF-75W80-1-Litre-1L-/161044251434

 

Need 2 litres. Oh and dont forget you need the silly splined type socket for the fill and drain plugs.

Do I get a prize at all?

 

Top prize is an imaginary pat on the back! cheers for the advice!

So that's the stuff you bought and used? - from them?

Does the gearbox not take 2.4 litres?

I've already got the tool, changed gearbox oil on my other vrs about two years back

No mine had pretty fresh 75W90 in it when I bought it,recommended for the Peloquin LSD,but I hated the notchy gear change cold so swapped to 75W80 and been mint since

So, in order to cure notchiness when cold, you changed 75W viscosity for 75W viscosity?

So, in order to cure notchiness when cold, you changed 75W viscosity for 75W viscosity?

Yeah I know the cold viscosity is the same number clever **** ,but the 80 makes a difference.

And before you spout off about it can't make a difference it does,that is all.

Well I'm gonna be the second guinea pig to try it out so will be able to confirm it also.

Orderd 3 litres from opie oils tonight, hopefully get this sorted shortly and report back also

Yeah I know the cold viscosity is the same number clever **** ,but the 80 makes a difference.

And before you spout off about it can't make a difference it does,that is all.

You're the one that attributed the different to the viscosity at 0C, not me. I'll agree that being 80 rather than 90 centistokes at 100C will make a difference once the oil has warmed up.

 

There's also a possibility that an unstated change of oil brand could make a difference, since it's fairly well known that VAG boxes don't work well with Sylkoline Syltrans.

You're the one that attributed the different to the viscosity at 0C, not me. I'll agree that being 80 rather than 90 centistokes at 100C will make a difference once the oil has warmed up.

 

There's also a possibility that an unstated change of oil brand could make a difference, since it's fairly well known that VAG boxes don't work well with Sylkoline Syltrans.

 

The viscosity of an 80 weight gear oil at 100C is actually only 7.0 cSt whereas a 90 weight is 13.5 cSt, nearly twice as much. In practice the winter rating figure is not particularly useful since neither oil will actually get any thinner, they just won't get as thick as they otherwise would at 0C. So despite the same winter rating the 80 weight will always be thinner than the 90 across the range of temperatures experienced in a gearbox.

The viscosity of an 80 weight gear oil at 100C is actually only 7.0 cSt whereas a 90 weight is 13.5 cSt, nearly twice as much. In practice the winter rating figure is not particularly useful since neither oil will actually get any thinner, they just won't get as thick as they otherwise would at 0C. So despite the same winter rating the 80 weight will always be thinner than the 90 across the range of temperatures experienced in a gearbox.

So I didn't imagine it

I changed mine yesterday, 2 liters of the exact same stuff pictured above.

Tested it out this morning on a cold start pulling off the drive and.... its still the same.

It could be normal to be honest, i wouldnt desribe it as a fault, just that first time you put it into gear it doesnt feel as smooth as it does every other time.

Will do the gear linkages next and see if that helps it at all.

 

I drained the oil from the lower drain plug and left it for a little while, refitted it, removed the fill plug and filled it untill it over flowed, it took just under 2 liters all together.

Edited 4 February, 201610 yr by hutchysrs50