Hi I have a mk1 fabia vrs.

The last owner put smf on it but brand unknown.

When driven first thing, the clutch slips if I put my foot down but there's no smell..

I drive til engine up-to temp then clutch doesn't slip anywhere near as much, just sometimes if I put my foot down hard but again no smell...

I'm in traffic in 1st, the car will go as if I've lifted the clutch but haven't.

And it'll get stuck there sometimes, I'd pump the pedal few times to get it out or yank gear stick hard.

And sometimes when in neutral, I go to put it in 1st but it won't go so I'd let off clutch then put it in again and it'll go in gear.

I've read it could be master but I don't know.

My brother reckons the last owner put smf in wrong?

Last owner told me clutch needs bleeding?

Any advice appreciated.

Well bleeding the clutch is the easiest thing to do so try that first, master cylinder and slave cylinder is your next port of call probably. I might not be correct on this but it may be possible to change the slave cylinder without taking the gearbox off on a Mk1.

 

Failing that its gearbox off i think

It's a concentric slave so the gearbox will have to come off, however I don't think it's hydraulic, it sounds like a crappy cheap clutch kit to me, by all means change the brake and clutch fluid but that won't cure the slippage.

Thank you. I'll bleed it first and go from there cheers. Is slave and master diy?

And is it possible to go back to dmf?

Thank you. I'll bleed it first and go from there cheers. Is slave and master diy?

 

Master definitely is DIY'able.

 

 

And is it possible to go back to dmf?

 

Yes indeed, it's by far the best option unless you're running big power, you can get the slave replaced at the same time.

It's a concentric slave so the gearbox will have to come off, however I don't think it's hydraulic, it sounds like a crappy cheap clutch kit to me, by all means change the brake and clutch fluid but that won't cure the slippage.

 

I don't think its hydraulic related either, but you have to look at the accessible parts first for obvious defects first, especially if yours going to pay somebody to take the box off.

 

If I was you i would order a slave, clutch and DMF and get it fitted, that way you won't have to revisit the fault again and you now everything is right

Thanks I think I'll go back to dual mass.

But can I not use the clutch that's already there and just put dmf? If clutch is good.

And if not, shall I get better clutch as its been mapped and torque hits at 15 Ish rpm?

You could but it wouldn't make much sense, if you have to pay for the labour cost to remove the gearbox to fit the dmf, slave cylinder ect then it would make sense to replace the clutch at the same time unless you know for sure that the clutch is ok to reuse.

As for your map either change your driving habits so that you do not put your foot down fully, until you hit 2000 rpm or when your not producing peak torque. The other option is to fit a clutch that can handle the power or change the map to a clutch friendly one.

Edited 16 January, 201610 yr by theezenutz

The clutch dragging is possibly the gearbox input shaft needing shimming. The smf clutch plate won't be compatible with a dmf

Is that diy?

Yes their is a guide floating around on vwvortex but a quick search should help you.

I was looking myself just the other day as I have a similar problem.

Here you go http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?6089802-O2M-whining-decel-noises-aftermarket-clutch-disengagement-issues-mainshaft-axial-play

Edited 16 January, 201610 yr by theezenutz

Cheers much appreciated!