help with resistance value of the instruments panel

[deivis1982]

 

greetings had a short circuit in the instrument panel pcb and not to have the resistance value .... my car is a Skoda Felicia Combi blue 96 glx someone who can help me telling me that value has some resistance or diagrma ... thanks
upload the image of the part that is burned
 

pozdravy měl zkratu v přístrojové desce PCB a nemít hodnotu odporu .... moje auto je Škoda Felicia Combi modrá 96 glx někdo, kdo mi může pomoci mi říct, že hodnota má nějaký odpor, nebo diagrma ... díky
nahrát obraz část, která se spálil
  

[RicardoM]

The value of that resistance is 10 Ohms/1 Watt.

 

==============================

 

El valor de la resistencia es 10 Ohms/1 Watt.

[deivis1982]

The value of that resistance is 10 Ohms/1 Watt.

 

==============================

 

El valor de la resistencia es 10 Ohms/1 Watt.

 

thanks for the help I'll go out and buy the'll be publishing the outcome resistance

 

gracias por la ayuda voy a salir a comprar la resistencia estare publicando los resultado

[RicardoM]

Be very careful with the PCB. The copper tracks are very fragile and they crack easily. If you have any doubts about the continuity of a track, better solder a wire in its place.

 

PS

Never connect the blue wire in place of brown wire.

 

==================

Tenga mucho cuidado con la placa de circuito impreso. Las pistas de cobre son muy frágiles y se rompen muy fácil. Si tienes alguna duda acerca de la continuidad de una pista, mejor soldar un alambre fino en su lugar.

 

PS

Nunca conecte el alambre azul en lugar del alambre marrón.

 

Edited 2 February, 2016 by RicardoM

[deivis1982]

The value of that resistance is 10 Ohms/1 Watt.

 

==============================

 

El valor de la resistencia es 10 Ohms/1 Watt.

greetings with the news that measure the strength and gives me a 102 Ohms value gives me doubt that I was told is 10 Ohms / 1 Watt.

One will be that resistance is open for this reason measures more

or I will surely pay you told me 10 Ohms / 1 Watt Intimate some

photos

There will be a diagram

thanks for the help

 

saludos con al novedad que mido la resistencia y me da un valor 102 Ohms me da duda por que me dijeron que es de 10 Ohms/1 Watt.

uno sera que la resistencia esta abierta por tal motivo mide mas

o le sueldo con toda seguridad la que me comentaron 10 Ohms/1 Watt pubico unas 

fotos

existira un diagrama

gracias por la ayuda

 

 

[RicardoM]

Do you really expect that resistance still has the correct value after it got so hot that almost self-destructed ??! I mean... the PCB got charred, cracked, and punctured...

 

I've uploaded relevant photos. Hopefully you will believe what I'm writing. By the way, I am an electronics engineer.

==============

¿De verdad esperas que la resistencia todavía tiene el valor correcto después de que se puso tan caliente que casi se autodestruyó ??! Es decir ... el PCB ha sido carbonizado y perforado ...

 

He subido fotos pertinentes. Espero que ahora vas a creer lo que estoy escribiendo. A propósito, soy ingeniero en Electrónica.

 

 

 

 

Edited 3 February, 2016 by RicardoM

[deivis1982]

¿Es usted realmente esperar que la resistencia todavía tiene el valor correcto después de que se puso tan caliente que casi se autodestruyó ??! Es decir ... el PCB quedó carbonizado, agrietado, y se punza ...

 

He subido fotos pertinentes. Esperamos que pueda creer lo que estoy escribiendo. Por cierto, soy un ingeniero electrónico.

==============

¿ De verdad esperas Que Tiene La Resistencia todavía el valor correcto Despues De Que se Puso tan caliente Que casi se autodestruyó ??! Es factible de ... el PCB ha Sido carbonizado y perforado ...

 

Él Subido fotos pertinentes. Ahora espero Que Vas A Creer Lo Que Estoy Escribiendo. Un ingeniero propósito m, soja en electronica.

 

 

 

 

 

 

first thank you for giving me the time to help

a summary of what happened

there was a short circuit in the temperature sensor cable connected to a plug that connects the panel is a black cable and the reason that a desconosco ... .desarme surprise PCB panel and burned in the area that showed in burned photos ... that day I had to solder the wires because the lines were repaired completely burned ... everything worked the temperature sensor and tachometer for gasoline, the days passed and I stopped working temperature indicator for that reason started looking for help and found it so: I am grateful.

solder resistance of 10 ohms / 1 watt, but I run just that showed me that there was gasoline and I lit a yellow light em all these years had never seen ignited .Then turned resistance welding which was burned first and I worked under the fourth tank that had ...

then check the temperature sensor which is when I broke out which is the head ... and even when I can not think of something so that it can change any suggestion would be helpful.

thanks for PCB images are a great help to compare,

sorry if my summarized been so extensive

I'm a fan of electronics and his advice has served me well I do not doubt you

photo of the resistance who sold me

 

 

primero gracias por darse el tiempo para ayudarme

un resumen de lo que sucedió

 

había un corto circuito en el cable del sensor de temperatura conectado a un enchufe que conecta el panel es un cable ***** y el cable se quemó razon que a un desconosco ... .desarme el panel y PCB sorpresa quemado en el área que mostre en las fotos ... ese día tuve que soldar el cables porque las líneas estaban totalmente quemados ... reparado todo funciono el sensor de temperatura y el tacometro de la gasolina,pasaron los dias y me dejo de funcionar el indicador de temperatura por tal motivo empece a buscar ayuda y al encontre por eso: estoy agradecido.

 

solde la resistencia de 10 ohmios / 1 vatio, pero me funciono solo que me marcaba que no  habia gasolina y me encendia una luz amarilla que em todo estos años nunca la habia visto prenderse .luego volvi a soldar la resistencia quemada la que estaba primero y funciono me marco el cuarto de tanque que tenia...

luego revise el sensor de temperatura el cual al momento se sacarlo se me rompio lo que es la cabeza...y hasta al momento no se me ocurre algo para poderlo cambiar alguna sugerencia seria de gran ayuda.

gracias por las imágenes del PCB son una gran ayuda para comparar,

disculpen si mi resumen a sido tan extenso

soy un aficionado a la electronica y sus consejos me han servido mucho no dudo de usted

foto de la resistencia que me vendieron

Foto de la Resistencia Que Me vendieron

 

 

 

Edited 4 February, 2016 by deivis1982

[RicardoM]

deivis1982

1. The only language accepted on this forum is English. For clarity you can use Spanish and English.
2. There is no need to quote my entire message, especially if you reply immediately after me.
3. Your last message is a disaster. I couldn't understand more than 5% of it. You've mixed all kind of words in both UPPERCASE and _lowercase, you didn't use any punctuation marks, and you've repeated twice the message. It's a mess. Try harder. Use shorter sentences.
4. From your blurred photos I see there is a total massacre on that board. I strongly recommend to buy a new instrument cluster or a working second hand one.

Just in case you don't know how to spell correctly the name of the instruments, here is a little help.

[deivis1982]

disculpas soy nuevo en esto será mejor usar mi idioma para ser más claro

 

gracias por la gráfica 

 

haré mi mayor esfuerzo

 

aca en Ecuador es difícil conseguir un tablero instrumentos sea usado u nuevo

Edited 4 February, 2016 by deivis1982

[RicardoM]

Use English as everybody else on this forum. Use Google Translate to 'write' in English first and then use Spanish. If you continue to write only in Spanish, the moderator will delete your post.

=============

Usa el inglés como todos los demás en este foro. Usa el Traductor de Google para "escribir" en Inglés y luego usa español. Si continúas escribir sólo en español, el moderador va a eliminar la entrada. Una pregunta: ¿tienes algo en contra de los signos de puntuación y el inicio de nuevas frases con una letra mayúscula? Porque tus mensajes se ven como un grifo que corre sin fin...

[VWD]

When I saw the topside photo of the charred resistor, I'd have suggested he cut the ends on the non PCB side and try to remove the legs singly. But looking at the other photos, only an experienced Electronics engineer( that's my opinion with over 45 years in trade)with a lot of years in PCB repair would attempt a repair on that, and only as a last gasp. But as said- not only does he risk mods being offended at use of other language, other folks wanting to help, can't get round the language barrier and will simply walk away. Poor English, most motoring blokes will put up with.

[sleon31]

 

Good night, I'm new, I'm from Colombia and I have the same problem, I need to know? I have to change the resistance and the diode? what is the number of the diode? thank you, thank you.

[RicardoM]

7 hours ago, sleon31 said:

I have to change the resistance and the diode?

Only the resistance.

[sleon31]

Thank you very much for your help.

 

[COMPUTONIK]

Hello everyone, I need help here with my PCB. One day just stop to work the fuel and the temperature gauge together. I checked all the things he says in this block. I changed the resistance before this problem and verified and corrected all copper tracks on pcb, I have a clue, when i disconnect the white connector does not turn on the error light and ABS light, I will like to know where to check for this light, does not turn on.   

(I did tested the bulbs lights)

[COMPUTONIK]

Hi again, i could fixed the fuel and temperature gauge, i checked voltage and didnt dial the 8v so i find a broken welding in the transistor so i soldered and works, but this thing about the unplug white connector still doesnt ligth up the abs and the error's ligth, will this be important?

 

[RicardoM]

What makes you think that with white connector unplugged the ABS and low brake fluid warning lights should be on?

Note for all Felicia owners: as I've said it many times, the low quality dashboard PCB is a weakness. The copper tracks are too thin. The solder joints crack from age and vibrations. That may result in all sort of weird intermittent issues.

Edited 7 January, 2019 by RicardoM

[COMPUTONIK]

Like 2 years before when i was modifying the lights in the dashboard i triyed connecting one plug at time for tested and when you connect only yellow and turn on the switch, the abs and service warning light turn on.
And now i bought a dashboard from a felicia combi i have a glx and they have some diferrences bettwen, i did the same test and this do what i said about the lights.

 

 

 

Edited 7 January, 2019 by COMPUTONIK

[COMPUTONIK]

Didn't find a picture with the finished job, later im gonna take a picture and uploaded, in the meantime i found this.

[RicardoM]

53 minutes ago, COMPUTONIK said:

And now i bought a dashboard from a felicia combi i have a glx and they have some diferrences bettwen

It is not clear if the dashboard PCB of donor Felicia combi is identical with your dashboard PCB.

In fact it is not clear what is your intention about the donor dashboard. Please explain. Remember we don't know what is in your mind...

 

Dashboard PCBs are different depending on type of engine, year of manufacturing, and trim level (LX, GLX). When you say "a dashboard from a Felicia combi" that doesn't mean anything.

[RicardoM]

If you clear the situation in my previous post, I will be able to advise further about ABS light.

[Thefeliciahacker]

I actually know what you mean i have seen that in my own felly 1.3l sport line
If you connect only one of the dash connectors and you turn the car on for testing the ABS AND AIRBAG LIGHT WILL CONTINUOUSLY ILLUMINATE 
Its not a problem when you connect both the yellow and the white connectors the lights are going to go away
 

[Thefeliciahacker]

 

On 07/01/2019 at 06:32, RicardoM said:

What makes you think that with white connector unplugged the ABS and low brake fluid warning lights should be on?

Note for all Felicia owners: as I've said it many times, the low quality dashboard PCB is a weakness. The copper tracks are too thin. The solder joints crack from age and vibrations. That may result in all sort of weird intermittent issues.

It does actually ive seen that on mine aswell when i changed the dash bulbs i connected only one connector for testing and the ABS and AIRBAG light continuously illuminated until yellow connector got plugged in 

[Thefeliciahacker]

I dont remember if it was airbag or low brake fluid light 
But im sure about the ABS