06 L & K ECU problems

[davejohnson]

Afternoon all

 

A couple of days ago, my car stopped while ticking over in a traffic queue. I've had it from new and the battery is about six years old.

 

It started after a few attempts, but the display panel was showing several alarms.

 

The (red) oil warning symbol was flashing. (It had plenty of oil)

 

The following alarms were permanently lit ;

 

Traction control.

 

EMS symbol.

 

Glowplug symbol

 

The rev counter stopped working.

 

'Environmental workshop' flashed up on the computer display.

 

I got it the few miles to a dealership, who say it needs a new ECU, which will cost around £2000 when fitted, but they can't guarantee that this will cure the problem.

 

Given the value of the car, it's not an option to do this. I'll get it back home on Monday.

 

I've seen a couple of posts here which refer to completely disconnecting the battery for a while to reset everything.

 

I'm almost in a position where I have nothing to lose by doing this. 

 

Three questions ...

 

Is it likely to work? Has anyone succesfully done it? Where can I find the radio code (if I need it)

 

TIA

 

Dave

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Eddie-NL]

Could be several things, don't take the word of the dealer as fact

 

Where are you located?

[davejohnson]

Hello Eddie

 

Thanks for the reply.

 

I'm in Warminster WILTS.

 

I know what you mean about the dealership. They will probably  just work through a flowchart, replacing parts as they go. If changing a £1500 ECU doesn't cure it, they will move on, changing parts as they go until the faults clear, by which time the bill could easily approach the value of the car.

 

 

Cheers

 

Dave

[Eddie-NL]

Shame you are so far away

 

I would start by getting someone with vcds to do a scan and see what communiction there is with the modules in the car.

Then start to check all the fuses and ground points 

Then check the ECU wiring, make sure it is getting power and check the can wiring

[davejohnson]

Thanks Eddie

 

I'm supposed to collect it today.

 

I'll ask  for the details of what they have diagnosed.

 

I Googled VCDS. I might buy one. Any recommendations on what  (or not) to buy?

 

I'll check all the fuses and any earthing points I can find, but I would hope that a dealership would have already  done that.

 

Now, i'll try and work out how to get the forum software to send me notification of replies ...

 

Cheers

 

Dave

 

 

 

 

 

 

[davejohnson]

Test post 2

Edited 29 February, 2016 by davejohnson

[davejohnson]

test post 3

[davejohnson]

Afternoon all

 

An update. I got the car back on Tuesday. They had had the ECU out, replaced it with a 'maintenance spare' and they reckon it's an intemittent fault on my   MCU, which they put back.

 

They had moved the car in the morning  before I picked it up and all was well at that time.

 

When I got in it, It started OK and all the warning lamps went out.

 

Five miles down the road   ... ping from the dashboard and the same lights on, but it didn't stall. The TSR lamp on the dash was pemanently lit and the the 'TSR OFF' warning was on in the button below the heater controls. The button would not toggle the TSR status. I drove it home. Switched it off.

 

Started it again straight away. The motor span for about five seconds , it started and then stopped. Another turn of the key for a few seconds and it started. The screen flashed 'Emissions Workshop' (glow plugs not working?) and all the lamps went out as below.

 

Today, I checked the battery voltage. 12.56 v at rest.

 

Ignition on and all the expected lamps lit, and went out after a few seconds. Tuned the key, it started instantly and all the remaining lamps went out except the EMS, which stays on permanently.

 

Battery voltage went up to 14.46 v.

 

Eveything seems to work OK. The stored settings for the door mirror reversing still work, as do the seat settings, both from the button and the key fob.

 

I've yet to find time to check for dodgy earths and fuses.

 

Any suggestions for VCDS software would be appreciated.

 

Cheers

 

Dave

Edited 3 March, 2016 by davejohnson

[davejohnson]

Hello again

 

This fault is now consistent. If you drive for about 7 miles, it appears (ASR light on, Oil Warning flashing etc.) Switch off and the engine starts with difficulty.

 

If I start it from cold, after about twenty minutes ticking over, it stalls and the alarms show. Again, it's hard to start.

 

In either case, leave it swithed off for half an hour or so and it starts perfectly.

 

Drive it for five minutes and switch it off (before the faults appear), again it starts perfectly.

 

I bought a VW/AUDI T55 scanner from Gendan.

 

The only engine fault it picks up is A/C refrigerant low Pressure sw. (F73).

 

The Auto Trans section shows

 

(18256) Check DTC memory of engine controller :P1848

 

and

 

(17100) Input / Turbine Speed Sensor A Circuit Range / Performance P0716

 

The ABS section shows

 

(01314) Engine control module sporadic 013 - Check DTC memory.

 

If I scan it in ODB mode I find a stored P0726 Engine speed I/P cct range/performance and a pending fault as above.

 

I haven't cleared anything as yet and there are dozens of other categories yet to look at.

 

One thing I thought of was that I left the drivers door 'ajar' overnight about the time of the recent storms and there was water ingress which had dripped onto the door mounted window switches. It's a bit of a long shot, but does it ring any alarm bells?

 

I think I know what the engine fault means, but would appreciate a bit of help with the rest.

 

 

 

Cheers

 

Dave

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[davejohnson]

Morning all

 

I may be disconnecting the battery to try 'resetting'the ECU. I may need the (Stream) radio code

 

The original spare key has a label attached, printed with

 

008SKZ7Z0F3572307

 

and a four digit number. The lowest number is 5 and the highest is 9.

 

Is this four digit number likely to be the required code?

 

TIA

 

Dave

[planehazza]

and a four digit number. The lowest number is 5 and the highest is 9.

 

Is this four digit number likely to be the required code?

 

TIA

 

Dave

Most likely.  You'll likely have 3 attempts or so, so give it a go.  

[trundlenut]

You won't need the code if the HU is the original one.

Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk

[davejohnson]

Thanks for the replies.

 

No changes involved, just downpowering to try to reset the ECU.

 

Cheers

 

Dave

[Guest]

Ignore.

Edited 20 March, 2016 by MicMac

[davejohnson]

Right

 

Just to clarify the battery removal, I lost the presets on the radio and the clock reset itself to 00:00. The radio retuned itself OK

 

The ECU went for testing last week and they can find no faults with it. They also say that there were no fault codes stored.

It looks like something else causing the problem.

 

Any suggestions?

 

TIA Dave

[mags101]

ECU's can get tested?,

where?

Mine failed too, in about February, they replaced it with a spare one off another taxi, all is fine except it idols too high occasionally,

I saw one garage and they seemed to think (bull crap me) it seems, that these parts are 10 a penny and were not the brain of the car, obviously they were lying!!

this is the only fault I have with my car and ive ran it for about 5000 miles with it so far and the only issue is the higher idoling occasionally (taxi stuck in heavy traffic)

this ecu thing is making me sick to the stomach as I really cant afford a new car.

Edited 18 April, 2016 by mags101

[Deejay2]

Morning Mags

 

Put 'ECU repairs' into Google.

 

Cheers

 

Dave

[Eddie-NL]

Right

 

Just to clarify the battery removal, I lost the presets on the radio and the clock reset itself to 00:00. The radio retuned itself OK

 

The ECU went for testing last week and they can find no faults with it. They also say that there were no fault codes stored.

It looks like something else causing the problem.

 

Any suggestions?

 

TIA Dave

wiring

[Deejay2]

The words needle and haystack spring to mind.

 

The ECU arrived today. Tomorrow, I'll disconnect the battery and check all the fuses before I re-fit it.

 

There's one more test I can think of before the vehicle electician gets a call.

 

One thing I had thought of  is the oil pressure warning lamp. Is there a pressure monitor within the DSG box?

 

Cheers

 

Dave

Edited 19 April, 2016 by Deejay2

[Phil-E]

I know you have tested the voltage but have you actually had the battery tested? It all sounds a bit like a dodgy battery to me.

[Deejay2]

Morning Phil

 

I spoke to a local garage about the battery. They said that they would have done the same tests  and drawn the same conclusions. Bear in mind that at the time, I thought the ECU was faulty.

 

I dug out the paperwork and the battery is just over four years old, not six. I had the one it replaced and the alternator tested before I changed it. That cost £25 (in Devon :yes: ) so I will probably replace it as the next step.

 

Cheers

 

Dave

[ExPassat]

I had those exact same problems at the start of the year - it was a dead alternator.

[Deejay2]

That's interesting. One of possible causes suggested to me before the ECU was tested was diode failure in the alternator.  It's charging OK, but I don't know how well the outputs are regulated. I have a mate with a hand held alternator tester.

 

What was the problem, or did you just replace it?

 

Meanwhile the ECU is back in. All the fuses have been removed, tested and replaced. All the earths (that I can find) have been cleaned.

 

Reconnecting the battery caused a power steering alarm, which cleared 10 yards up the road, and an airbag failure alarm which I deleted.

 

Started OK, all alarms out. After 11minutes on tickover - same alarms, same failure.

 

When it's cooled down, I'l restart it and check the main engine/gearbox earth.

[Phil-E]

What about if you start it up, rev it a bit (above 2000-2500rpm) then leave it to idle?

 

There is a common problem on the MK1 Fabia related to the alternator and the charging circuit doesn't get triggered unless the revs go over a certain amount. It causes the same kind of symptoms after a short period of idling like yours.

 

And do you see a battery warning light with the ignition on but the engine off?

 

Just something else to rule out I guess.

[Deejay2]

Morning Phil

 

I'll have a look when I try the oscilloscope. Plan A is to see if there is a change of output when the fault appears.

 

Cheers

 

Dave