Rear toe eccentric bushes stuck solid

[gav_is_con]

Hoping someone can help. Took the car in for a 4WA mainly due to a set of balding inner edge rear tyres aka sawtoothing?

The toe on the rears was driving outwards explaining the wear anyway. When he undid the nuts on the eccentric bolts the bolts on the other side are stuck solid so cannot be adjusted. The last time these were done was approx 100k miles ago[emoji16]

I have already reviewed parts availability. It's the whole arm including bush at TPS and the eccentric bolt,nut and washer are available separately. So it's looking like an expensive fix under £200 parts before labour.

Anyone know how to remove the eccentric bolt or free it off. Can the bush in the arm be replaced if obtained separately?

I also checked GSF and Euro but can't find anything different parts.

Thanks in advance.

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[CWARD]

It's only a bolt with a cam welded to it with a nut at the other end. If you can't undo the nut then get plenty of penetrating fluid on it, leave to soak then try again.

[patrolman]

I did mine on the scout , when i tried to adjust them with the bolt it was trying to rotate the bush as the bolts were seized in the bush sleeves 

no amount of freeing oil would work , ended up replacing the arms due in part to worn bushes but this was affecting toe, I had to cut the bolts ether side of the bush no

mean feet I used a power hack saw, hope this helps.

[gav_is_con]

It's only a bolt with a cam welded to it with a nut at the other end. If you can't undo the nut then get plenty of penetrating fluid on it, leave to soak then try again.

The nuts are opening fine it's the bolt end where you adjust from.

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[gav_is_con]

I did mine on the scout , when i tried to adjust them with the bolt it was trying to rotate the bush as the bolts were seized in the bush sleeves

no amount of freeing oil would work , ended up replacing the arms due in part to worn bushes but this was affecting toe, I had to cut the bolts ether side of the bush no

mean feet I used a power hack saw, hope this helps.

It's seems like new arms are the order of the day. Shame the bushes cannot be replaced in the arm would possibly reduce the cost of this

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[Guest]

Mark the bolt position and while applying torque to the bolt with a good fitting socket and plenty of leverage hit the loosened nut with a hammer.

Once it's loose, remove, refurb and reuse with copper grease or purchase new items.

[gav_is_con]

Mark the bolt position and while applying torque to the bolt with a good fitting socket and plenty of leverage hit the loosened nut with a hammer.

Once it's loose, remove, refurb and reuse with copper grease or purchase new items.

Worth a shot. Will ask the mechanic to give it a go a lot easier on a ramp this kind of work. [emoji106]

Seriously though contemplating just running the car with the toe like this at the back. It will just eat tires but they do last ages on the back normally. Plus I use a winter and summer set.

Car is on 195k and 250k was my goal before treating myself to a new model.

Food for thought. [emoji41]

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[mikey vrs]

If the nut is turning & the bolt wont turn then it sounds like the bolt is siezed in the bush sleeve as mentioned above & i doubt you will shift it but certainly give it a try if you can get a long breaker bar onto the bolt head,i have this problem all the time on my works landrovers & i have to cut the bolt off then replace the bush along with a new bolt & nut,it does seem silly that you cant buy the bush on its own & have to replace the whole arm but this seems the norm nowadays.

[CWARD]

If the nut is lose then take it to the of the thread, use a wood drift and give the nut side a whack towards the cam side. No need to be gentle and also try an impact driver on the cam side.

[CWARD]

Problem with Macs suggestion is that too much torque on the bolt and it will shear.

[TsvRS]

I have the same problem with seized bushes but at 100,000 miles. My 4WA is only slightly out but my rear tyres are threepenny bitted and noisy as hell. I suppose it is possible that the seized bushes actually create the poor dynamic geometry that eats the tyres as to be honest my static alignment is almost spot on.

[wilson323f]

Just done mine a few weeks ago cut the bolt off with a grinder i went to ecp and got 2 new bushes. Vw had new bolts and washers i got someone i knew to push old bushes out and replace with the new ones and bolted it all back together cant remember the price of everything but it was under £25 for both sides.

[wilson323f]

The bushes i got from eurocarparts have a product code 610441630 they are £5.69 each there is more expensive ones but these were in stock.

[gav_is_con]

The bushes i got from eurocarparts have a product code 610441630 they are £5.69 each there is more expensive ones but these were in stock.

Thank you. Car is in garage so will pass on the details

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[brad1.8T]

The nuts are opening fine it's the bolt end where you adjust from.

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Remove the nut & the cam on the nut side.  Spray both sides liberally with penetrating oil like PB Blaster.  Try & do it a few times over a week if possible.  Replace the cam & nut but only screw the nut flush with the end of the bolt  (on the day you intend to remove the bolt). 

Get a nice brass drift or chunk of hardwood.  Belt it with a really heavy angineers hammer - either a 24oz or 32oz.  Failing that, a really heavy brass face hammer.  DO NOT MESS ABOUT - hit it hard.  If you get it to move one way a few mm then belt it back the other way and keep working it.

 

Don't forget the other set of eccentrics for camber.  They'll be the ones causing the saw-toothing.  Set it at 1 degree negative.  They are a real pain to get to

[gav_is_con]

Remove the nut & the cam on the nut side. Spray both sides liberally with penetrating oil like PB Blaster. Try & do it a few times over a week if possible. Replace the cam & nut but only screw the nut flush with the end of the bolt (on the day you intend to remove the bolt).

Get a nice brass drift or chunk of hardwood. Belt it with a really heavy angineers hammer - either a 24oz or 32oz. Failing that, a really heavy brass face hammer. DO NOT MESS ABOUT - hit it hard. If you get it to move one way a few mm then belt it back the other way and keep working it.

Don't forget the other set of eccentrics for camber. They'll be the ones causing the saw-toothing. Set it at 1 degree negative. They are a real pain to get to

The camber is in the green before and after the test although the toe is out on the rears.

Left camber was -1*16 and right rear was -1*20. Are these the values accepted as it says between -1*50 to -0*50 being recommended with values switched for left rear?

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[TerryVRS]

I cut my bolts off as they were seized like yours. New bolts and Powerflex bushes were fitted. Much cheaper than £200.

[Stuart-h]

Got mine changed on the work car. They were seized up solid. Got the garage to change them, when I got the car the rear tyres were worn on the inside of the tyre.
Bout £300 to get both sides done.

 

Mind you im doing 300 miles plus a week!

[brad1.8T]

The camber is in the green before and after the test although the toe is out on the rears.

Left camber was -1*16 and right rear was -1*20. Are these the values accepted as it says between -1*50 to -0*50 being recommended with values switched for left rear?

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You'll get away with that.  -1'50" is a bit ambitious on Skoda's part.  You'd have to be driving like a nob all the time to stop the tyre wear on the inside edge.  As you said, you had some toe-out so hopefully that was the cause of your problems.

 

As the others have stated, you can buy just the bush

[gav_is_con]

Eccentric bolt and nut cut off and arms removed from car. The remaining bolt stuck in was bush pressed out using bush press. All reassembled with new nut bolt and washers.

One error I can see. They have been fitted back to front. The nut end should be this side and the bolt visible from the other. I suspect adjustment won't be possible for the toe until this rectified.

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Edited 21 March, 2016 by gav_is_con

[brad1.8T]

They'll get full adjustment whether they are fitted from the front or the rear.  Why would you think they won't work?

 

Having the thread pointing to the rear isn't a bad idea as the thread will get less crud all over it.

[gav_is_con]

They'll get full adjustment whether they are fitted from the front or the rear. Why would you think they won't work?

Having the thread pointing to the rear isn't a bad idea as the thread will get less crud all over it.

Thanks I don't quite understand how they work. I thought the one side was to loosen up and the other was turned to adjust. I have been reassured by you the mechanic and the alignment centre. Just need to get the car down to be adjusted this week.

Ah well a few more days of driving the vRS [emoji12]

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[brad1.8T]

The front and rear washers are both keyed into the bolt and held captive by the u-channel they sit in.  The chassis is slotted horizontally so that the arm can go in/out and change the setting..  The bush is the same diameter as the bolt.  The nut clamps it all together so it doesn't move.

 

This video may help

[gav_is_con]

The front and rear washers are both keyed into the bolt and held captive by the u-channel they sit in. The chassis is slotted horizontally so that the arm can go in/out and change the setting.. The bush is the same diameter as the bolt. The nut clamps it all together so it doesn't move.

This video may help

Great video. Glad to say as of Thursday it was back to the http://www.wheelalignmentcentrebirmingham.co.uk to have the rears adjusted and the fronts needed doing again toe wise. All done and another £20 down following the reasonable £40 for the first time. The only issue that cannot be rectified is the front near side camber is 1.03 where the tolerance says 1.00 max, it maybe some suspension wear or pothole damage. Oh well here's to another 50k miles.

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[brad1.8T]

Camber at front should be OK.  What was the RHS reading? 

 

They can adjust the front camber & caster slightly by moving the subframe.  It's not the most elegant solution as it removes from one side as it adds to the other.  If the RHS is around -0.7/-0.8 then there isn't much you can do.