what size is the dumpvalve hose in mm the one on the top of the dumpvalve

 

and does anyone know where to buy an original one  or can i just buy a silicon hose or will it bend to much and restrict the airflow

3mm

3mm

okeej so the dumpvalve and the fuel pressure regulator has the same size hose ???

I have used the same 3mm hose for my plumbing, here you go.... the new bright blue stuff, changed it when fitting the boost gauge

 

I have used the same 3mm hose for my plumbing, here you go.... the new bright blue stuff, changed it when fitting the boost gauge

 

okeej  do your boost gauge work connected like that ??? mine  didnt work when i had it connected to the dumpvalve 

 

it the vacuum sucked the needle down to much and it never got over the zero when i had full boost

 

or could it be that it didnt work connected like that if my dumpvalve is leaking ???

Edited 18 March, 201610 yr by rsdanne

okeej  do your boost gauge work connected like that ??? mine  didnt work when i had it connected to the dumpvalve 

 

it the vacuum sucked the needle down to much and it never got over the zero when i had full boost

 

or could it be that it didnt work connected like that if my dumpvalve is leaking ???

yes it works perfectly, peaks at 1.6 bar, holds about 1.2-1.4 bar on full throttle depending on revs.... general driving its in negative... you may want to investigate your dv when I bought my car, mine was knackered, needed a service kit to get it working properly, as it was loosing boost, thats why I plumbed in a boost gauge so I can keep an eye on it

yes it works perfectly, peaks at 1.6 bar, holds about 1.2-1.4 bar on full throttle depending on revs.... general driving its in negative... you may want to investigate your dv when I bought my car, mine was knackered, needed a service kit to get it working properly, as it was loosing boost, thats why I plumbed in a boost gauge so I can keep an eye on it

wow peaks at 1,6bar  have you changed injectors or is it just remapped with standard ones ???

 

 what is done to your car?  how much hp 

 

best regards daniel

Edited 18 March, 201610 yr by rsdanne

its just stage one... the 1.6 bar is the "standard" surge..... if I put it in psi for you .... it "holds" boost at 19-20 psi, which is stage one.... I do have decat, and 3 " exhaust, air filter etc.. (no FMIC)..

 

no idea what the power is, feels pretty quick, somewhere between 205-220 bhp ?

aah okeej i  didnt  know that it peaked so high as 1,6 bar because  mine has never had  the boost gauge working correctly

 

i had to remap mine back to original and put the original injectors back   due to jumpy idling and asr light that  came on  from time to time

 

now when its mapped back to original and have original injectors the jumpy idling has only happend once in 2-3 days time after it was on idle for about 3 miutes

 

however i will change the hose for the fuelpressure regulator and the one  on top of the dumpvalve and will change the dumpvalve to and see if it makes it better

 

and will have it remapped at stage one  and hopefully it will work better now with the original injectors  had volvo t5 blue injectors before and a remap for them but i guess that something wasnt right with that map

 

 

so now my car has an upgrade turbo based on the original turbo with bigger compressor thats suitable for 260hp

 

and  a 3 inch downpipe with 200 cell cat and 2.5" exhaust after the cat and back

 

so im hoping for around 220-230hp after the remap

 

the guy that maps my car said that he would try to get the most out of it as possible with the original injectors now when it didnt work so good with the volvo injectors

Will be interested to see what it makes have you got a build thread going?

Will be interested to see what it makes have you got a build thread going?

hi again i have a build thread in a swedish forum 

 

you might not understand the text but  you can see the pics here is a link

 

http://www.gtiklubben.nu/forum/showthread.php?22514-rs_dannes-octavia-rs1-projekt

 

 

i also tested to blow air in to my dumpvalve and  air could be blown into the  dumpvalve so i guess its leaking 

 

another one in aluminum will be sent together with the hand computer with the stage one map in a couple of days

Edited 19 March, 201610 yr by rsdanne

now the car runs great with the new stage 1 map and i have also installed a new aluminium dumpvalve its quite nice to hear that it works

 

i connected the boostgauge to the dumpvalve hose to see if it worked better now  with a new dumpvalve but it dont work like it should it just gets up to the 0 at full boost so i guess it must be broken

 

or have i connected it wrong ???

 

 

 here is a pic of  my boostgauge at idle is it normal that it gets sucked down this far 

Edited 22 March, 201610 yr by rsdanne

now the car runs great with the new stage 1 map and i have also installed a new aluminium dumpvalve its quite nice to hear that it works

 

i connected the boostgauge to the dumpvalve hose to see if it worked better now  with a new dumpvalve but it dont work like it should it just gets up to the 0 at full boost so i guess it must be broken

 

or have i connected it wrong ???

 

 

 here is a pic of  my boostgauge at idle is it normal that it gets sucked down this far 

it will sit about -0.6 bar I think idling (I will check on mine tomorrow) ... its generally in negative when cruising, always bangs up high (1-1.4 bar generally,peaking at 1.6 on the initial surge) when foot down...... you have connected it like mine (I did it there from a recommendation on here) and mine works fine (it was a cheap one too) you have the pipe into the wiring loom, as long as it goes through without getting pinched anywhere it should work! (does it settle to zero when the engine is off?) If the car is running properly, it seems the ONLY thing that could be wrong is the gauge itself.......(cant  quite see what its reading in that pic)

 

maybe there is a leak in that line somewhere? it would probably show as a boost leak though, throw up the fault code and loose power...... if its running well, only thing left really is the gauge itself.

Edited 22 March, 201610 yr by sharkrider

it will sit about -0.6 bar I think idling (I will check on mine tomorrow) ... its generally in negative when cruising, always bangs up high (1-1.4 bar generally,peaking at 1.6 on the initial surge) when foot down...... you have connected it like mine (I did it there from a recommendation on here) and mine works fine (it was a cheap one too) you have the pipe into the wiring loom, as long as it goes through without getting pinched anywhere it should work! (does it settle to zero when the engine is off?) If the car is running properly, it seems the ONLY thing that could be wrong is the gauge itself.......(cant  quite see what its reading in that pic)

 

maybe there is a leak in that line somewhere? it would probably show as a boost leak though, throw up the fault code and loose power...... if its running well, only thing left really is the gauge itself.

okeej yeah the car is running great now and has alot of power  the gauge goes back to zero when the engine is turned off or a little bit over the zero guess its not calibrated exactly right

 

and i dont think the vacum hose is pinched anywhere and i have cableties on the vacumhose both on the T and on the boost gauge  so it shouldnt leak

 

guess i have to buy another boost gauge are the electronic ones good or should i just buy another mechanical one ???

no idea which is best, like I said, mine was cheap (and I like to look at a needle not a number) your car is obviously boosting, so I don't know why its not showing! (sorry!)

no idea which is best, like I said, mine was cheap (and I like to look at a needle not a number) your car is obviously boosting, so I don't know why its not showing! (sorry!)

yeah i like  to look at the needle to i meant an electronic  boostgauge like the prosport gauge with an opening ceremony

 

like this one

http://realcar.se/img/p/3/7/6/8/4/37684-thickbox_default.jpg

yesterday i noticed  that the car started to stutter on low rpm again under 2000rpm it can start jump on the idle and even when driving on low rpm i can feel a stutter

 

but only sometimes and then the car can run great again 

 

so sick of this

have you replaced coil packs?

have you replaced coil packs?

yeah they changed 3 of my coilpacks  on warranty and  the 4th one were changed before and they were all tested by a volkswagen workshop and there were no faults there they said

 

and a strange thing i have noticed  is that when i remap the car then the car runs great without any issues for over a week

 

i have 2 diffrent stage 1 maps in the handcomputer that my tuner has sent me so i can read fault codes and try these 2 diffrent stage 1 maps and see if one of them is better for my car

 

so i remapped it again yesterday and now it has no issues  again but i guess the problem will come back in some days or  maybe a week like last time

If you have fitted the boost gauge to the line going to the top of the diverter valve its in the wrong place. That impulse line will only ever see a vacuum when you shut off the throttle to open the DV surely?

 

I'm sure most people tap into the fuel pressure regulator line

Edited 31 March, 201610 yr by SuperbTWM

If you have fitted the boost gauge to the line going to the top of the diverter valve its in the wrong place. That impulse line will only ever see a vacuum when you shut off the throttle to open the DV surely?

 

I'm sure most people tap into the fuel pressure regulator line

works there in my car... and thats where someone else on here put it, thats why I followed on! lol...

works there in my car... and thats where someone else on here put it, thats why I followed on! lol...

Yea, after thinking about it, while your on boost it applies the boost pressure to the top of the DV to keep a positive seat on the V/V as well as the spring, then when the N249 switches over you get the vacuum reading.

 

Forgive me, its a while since I had my 1.8T

I also have the N249 delete.....

I also have the N249 delete.....

i still have my n249 is that why  my boost gauge dont work ??

 

or should i just tap into the fpr vacum 

Edited 31 March, 201610 yr by rsdanne

possibly, i don't know enough about it, because it isnt there!   can't be that important

 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/155472-how-to-remove-delete-sai-n249-and-n112/