Yeah, but you only work on Sundays..................................

 

(joke by the way)

 Oh i wish it were true 

If your vehicle has a strong service history why don't you see what good will SUK are willing to offer?

I see it more often than not where they'll pay for the part and sometimes contribute towards the labour.

customer care might be the best people to deal with...

If your vehicle has a strong service history why don't you see what good will SUK are willing to offer?

I see it more often than not where they'll pay for the part and sometimes contribute towards the labour.

customer care might be the best people to deal with...

I agree in principle but he's even outside the (theoretical) extended warranty period already ....but no harm in trying or preferably bargaining for a trade up.

Second thought, if it's a large dealership I'd be trying to talk to the owner of it rather than get involved with the devisions within it, who are all trying to improve THEIR bottom line at your expense.

Edited 24 March, 201610 yr by Ryeman

If your vehicle has a strong service history why don't you see what good will SUK are willing to offer?

I see it more often than not where they'll pay for the part and sometimes contribute towards the labour.

customer care might be the best people to deal with...

 

I have been told that they put a limit of 5 years and 100k miles, and I'm over that.

I'm going to see what they are going to offer me in p-ex before I consider whether I approach them or not.

goodwill rules have changes recently in favour of the consumer. if you log a case with customer care then get in touch with a decent dealer they should be able to get you an answer with an idea of what goodwill you're entitled to within 24 hours.

Milage and age might be put aside depending on how hard you push your concerns.

I have a very good relationship with the dealer I use.

We shall see.

My EGR failed a while back. Story here

 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/374545-limp-mode/

 

£470 to replace would only cover the cost of the parts in my case.

 

Andy

I think a company called Dark Ice Designs sell an oil catch can

......and one called Provent 200

http://www.costeffective.com.au/Product/41/provent-200-oil-catch-can

Update : No joy via Skoda dealership where I bought it (used) and have had it serviced for the past 3 years... mostly because of the 108,000 miles and age (5 now).  Won't be impressed if as part of the recall (VW engine) they replace this part...   I shall keep a very close eye on that one!

 

Thus it is currently residing with a local independant garage where it has had 2 days labour done on it (8 hours so far and counting) and it is still not replaced.   It is a pig of a job on my 4x4 170 version :(     I am really not looking forward to the final bill (but at least their labour charges aren't as high as the Skoda dealer!).    

 

None of the big remap companies would touch it with the current fault as they couldn't give guarantees whilst that fault was there.

 

I will defo look at blanking / remap to remove the darn thing after I get it back so that it won't go into limp mode and cost me another 4 figures again !

 

Left a very bad taste in my mouth for an otherwise superb car. 

Not really understanding where you're coming from.

 

If you're aiming to remove and blank the EGR, why have you had an independent spend 2 days on it? What have you actually tasked them with doing?

 

If you're not interested in keeping EGR operation, I'd have them remove it, fit the blanking, then have the ECU remapped to suit.

Re your first point; I think you'll find their 'cheat' was designed to LIMIT the EGR valves effectiveness ie not do much work which means LESS fouling.

The 'fix' is the worrying bit if you want no EGR valve problems IMO.

Final outcome - garage spent 20 hours labour in removing and replacing the EGR Valve and is giving me a full breakdown of everything that was required in order to replace it for me to write to Skoda HQ as it is ridiculous.

 

They are only charging me for 8 hours labour costs and hence a bill just shy of £1000 :(

 

For those talking about blanking it off and mapping out the ECU...  I spoke to all the 'big' remapping companies (and some smaller ones too even those I couldn't find any reviews about) that remap out EGR's and not one of them would touch my car without the EGR valve being replaced first - that includes Shark and also Evolution.

 

I then tried every local independant garage within 20 miles radius of home regarding fixing it and only this one garage that grossly under-estimated the labour hours required - plus one other would attempt the fix (the other garage being booked up for a fortnight and thus unable to take on the work).  Most said "not a hope" when I explained where the EGR valve was on my 4x4 Skoda.

 

Utter madness and definitely writing to Skoda HQ regarding the ridiculous positioning of such a part which will wear out on turbo diesels :(    Will update if/when I get a response.

Not really understanding where you're coming from.

 

If you're aiming to remove and blank the EGR, why have you had an independent spend 2 days on it? What have you actually tasked them with doing?

 

If you're not interested in keeping EGR operation, I'd have them remove it, fit the blanking, then have the ECU remapped to suit.

 

The actual removal of the EGR valve takes so long to do in labour hours, it really isn't much less than replacing it.    Regarding the Blanking and remapping - not a single company would touch my car with the fault and limp mode.  I tried calling everyone I found within 20 miles (the max really to be able to limp it!). 

The 'fix' is the worrying bit if you want no EGR valve problems IMO.

 

Hi - thanks for the reply and the explanation of the 'recall' bit  

 

Which 'fix' ?  The replacement or the remapping? 

We used to get 6 hours to change that egr on the 4x4. when I worked at Skoda. One of the reasons I left

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If you do a couple you can get them well within the repair time regardless if its a 4x4 or FWD.

You tend to find that these egr valves fail because of either a failed seal or a failed bearing.

You tend to find that these egr valves fail because of either a failed seal or a failed bearing.

 

I am going to try to get the old failed one back to see what the problem was with it.  The garage seems to think it was perm "open" and also with an electrical fault as well.   I shall post more when I know

Take the plastic end cap off and have a look if it's full of carbon.

The mechanical failure causes an electrical fault code condition.

Hi - thanks for the reply and the explanation of the 'recall' bit

Which 'fix' ? The replacement or the remapping?

When the get round to your car the VW fix (IMO) will make the EGR's life harder in order to meet the NOx emission standard all the time (to the extent that others do at least) as opposed to just during the official certification test which was only achieved by cheating.

Things won't be better for the EGR valve AFTER the recall, that's fairly certain.

If it's not mandatory I'd avoid it, at least till much more is known and after a considerable period of time, if you intend to keep it that is.

The UK/EU attitude to 'interfering' with it is also ...now OR in the future, is a matter to consider.

Edited 31 March, 201610 yr by Ryeman

If you do a couple you can get them well within the repair time regardless if its a 4x4 or FWD.

Really? Everyone should take their 4x4 egr replacement to you then. Where abouts are you?

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Really? Everyone should take their 4x4 egr replacement to you then. Where abouts are you?

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Going for a wild guess, but maybe here:

http://www.rrg-group.com/skoda/rrg-skoda-rochdale/

Take the plastic end cap off and have a look if it's full of carbon.

The mechanical failure causes an electrical fault code condition.

 

Hi - no, reasonably clean (but I do have Terracleans done reasonably regularly).   The valve was fixed in the Open position. 

We do a lot of them. Our FWD replacement time is down to less than 2 hours; dpf loosened, driveshaft off, leave the subframe on.

With the 4x4 once the props out and the rear exhaust section off you can work around the transfer unit, unbolt the N18 and away you go.