So basically a vacuum gauge is the easiest way farward setting the stop screw at around 1.8 so it can't go past that?

You need vcds lite to be able to set the stop screw.

Basic settings group 11. Engine increases to 1400rpm and cycles from actuator on to off. You monitor the pressure difference and for a stock gt17 your aiming for around 130-150mbar on a warm engine.

Once stop screw is set then you can set the actuator so it hits the stop screw at around 18 on the vacuum gauge.

Would these base settings be the same for the GTB turbo's ? i.e. the duty cycle and stop screw settings?

Thanks

GTB's you find stop screw is around 60-90mbar. Using a stock pd130 map I always aimed for around 65% at 4000rpm.

Very interesting, Thanks fabooka 

You need vcds lite to be able to set the stop screw.

Basic settings group 11. Engine increases to 1400rpm and cycles from actuator on to off. You monitor the pressure difference and for a stock gt17 your aiming for around 130-150mbar on a warm engine.

Once stop screw is set then you can set the actuator so it hits the stop screw at around 18 on the vacuum gauge.

 

I have been back to Big Fish today and they have done logs, on both standard pd150 and pd130 maps. The outcome being the same every time, Overboosting constantly! (2988.00)

The actuator seems fine and hits the stop screw at bang on 18 on the vacuum gauge...

N75 valve was also checked and nothing wrong there along with all vac pipes...

I take my hat off to the lads at Big Fish Tuning, they have done all they can to try and get to the bottom of it!

They think the vanes in the turbo could be permanently closed which is causing the overboosting...?

So it looks like the turbo will have to come off and be sent back to turbo active...

Yup. What a pain.

Yup. What a pain.

Sure is. And the turbo is still under warranty but because I got it from someone who bought it from turbo active I might have to pay for the turbo to be sorted what ever the problem may be! :/

Here's the logs from yesterday anyway when a stock pd130 map has been put back on...

So by 2400rpm the ecu has fully opened (what it think anyway) the actuator to try and release all the boost pressure due to the over post.

So by 2400rpm the ecu has fully opened (what it think anyway) the actuator to try and release all the boost pressure due to the over post.

It looks that way yeah, could it be just the actuator rod being too short or could it be a problem with the vanes?

Not sure about the siren type noise but max boost i'd want to go on an unmodified 1749vb is 1.65bar with a FMIC and 1.55bar without standard side mount.

It looks that way yeah, could it be just the actuator rod being too short or could it be a problem with the vanes?

No way of knowing without investigating.

With a vacuum gauge does the vnt lever move smoothly? Or disconnect the arm from the lever and move it with your fingers to see if theirs any resistance.

If feels ok the. Lengthen the actuator arm 4 turns and log again.

No way of knowing without investigating.

With a vacuum gauge does the vnt lever move smoothly? Or disconnect the arm from the lever and move it with your fingers to see if theirs any resistance.

If feels ok the. Lengthen the actuator arm 4 turns and log again.

It seems the turbo is still under warranty but as for the over boosting the police siren noise is getting worse so it must be the bearing... So the turbo is coming off next week and being sent back to resolve the problem!

Also just bought a GT1749va from a fabia vrs so will be putting that on for the time being!

The siren noise is cavitation because the impeller is trying to force more air into the manifold and failing due to the overpressure.

Im just curious as to what Turbo Active will say reguarding the warranty.

It hasnt been touched or messed with but they usually worm out or any warranty so...

 

Failed bearing... im expecting "oil pressure problem" to be a reply or somthing similar...