I know the main problem with these is not holding boost due to diaphragm failure but are these also prone to leaking oil I suppose around the embedded o-ring where it mounts?  Being under the car yesterday to fit a wastegate rod spring clip the diverter valve was pretty oily and i couldn't really see any other source.

 

On another, almost ridiculous question. What sump plugs do people use on these edit: engines ccza? The oem vw supplied item is a short (unconvetional) t30 torx bolt with copper washer but mine continues to leak after a fair bit of force. Pretty apprehensive about pushing it harder.  Never has had a car before where tightening the sump lug was so hit and miss!  As soon as you crack with one the oil comes out.  Other vw's the sump plug almost had to be removed for oil to flow!

 

Thanks

Edited 9 July, 20169 yr by TheClient

Evening all,

 

Any experience of oil leaking outside the diverter valve i.e. past the embedded o-ring seal or is it likely to be elsewhere?

 

And if anybody has some practical experience on getting the sump plug to seal on a CCZA 2.0tsi engine that would be appreciated. Next time I do an oil change I think I'll resort to using sealant between the washer and the plug and the mating surface. Never had a problem changing oil before and trying to get the sump plug to reseal! 

 

Thanks

Not sure about the DV oil leak, but mines got a splash/smear around it also.

 

Regarding the sump bolt; does it leak generally? It's spec'd for 30NM - don't go any higher.  Some monkey at a garage ruined mine leading me to spend £120 + labour on a new pan. Have the bolt and washer been replaced? The washer is a one time only item but for the price, you might as well replace the bolt also for peace of mind.  If it's not leaking when tightened up, but does when you start to undo it, you should be OK with a good few layers of PTFE tape wrapped around the bold, but ONLY with a new washer.

My diverter valve is pretty oily in the vicinity, can't really see another source but then visibility is a bit tight lying underneath the car so thought i'd ask if others have found they leak.

 

Bought oem vag sump plug, t30 or t40 torx head and shorter than most standard vw sump plugs I've used and a separate oem copper washer as a separate part no which according to skoda dealer were the correct parts - all new.  It is done it up very tight and it was still leaking little. When I [originally cracked the old bolt] to drain the oil, oil started to flow noticeably out as soon as cracking the bolt. Never really had to think hard about sump plugs sealing in any previous cars!

Edited 13 July, 20169 yr by TheClient

I haven't noticed any oil buildup on my DV. It is a little dirty but not really oily.

I replaced the diaphragm one for the upgraded piston design about a year and a half ago.

 

Regarding the sump, I replaced the sump nut with a fumoto quick drain valve. This is to stop replacing the o ring or sump nut and avoiding damaging the sump threads.

I have not had a leak since fitting this and have had 3 oil changes in that time.

 

If the quick drain valve doesn't need to come out, you could seal the threads with a paste. I didn't do this, but I don't think it would hurt.

I haven't noticed any oil buildup on my DV. It is a little dirty but not really oily.

I replaced the diaphragm one for the upgraded piston design about a year and a half ago.

 

Regarding the sump, I replaced the sump nut with a fumoto quick drain valve. This is to stop replacing the o ring or sump nut and avoiding damaging the sump threads.

I have not had a leak since fitting this and have had 3 oil changes in that time.

 

If the quick drain valve doesn't need to come out, you could seal the threads with a paste. I didn't do this, but I don't think it would hurt.

Yes not a bad idea with the drain valve. Although, a sump plug still should work and the thread pitch and diameter will be exactly the same with the drain valve!  Maybe the flexible fibre washer pictured with the drain valve assembly is the answer as the oem washer I was supplied is a copper item.

Actually, since my drain lever didn't align at the top when tightened, we ripped off the fibre washer and replaced it with 2 copper crush washers so the lever was at the top.

Is it an easy enough task to do and is it worth me removing the DV to check for diaphragm tears? Mine is a 2010 model so probably an early design...

Reading postings on this forum indicate it is easy enough job. Three hex bolts securing it. The only challenge is accessing the third hex bolt around the top of the unit. Job looks like it has to be from underneath - some postings indicate it is possible through the driver side wheel arch liner. Not really sure if it is necessary to replace if boost pressures ok though.  I tried to see the part number on mine but it was obscured and you would need one of those extendable viewing mirrors to read.

 

Maybe I'll replace preventatively too, hoping it also fixes the oil discharge.

A good link for it:

 

http://shopdap.com/diagnosis-and-replacement-diy-for-your-2-0t-turbo-recirculation-dv-valve/

 

Tempted to do it myself, also.  £45 for the part, but also tempted to get the DV+ too.

 

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/performance/dump-valves-accessories-vehicle-specific/gfb-dv-bov-diverter-valve

Edited 14 July, 20169 yr by planehazza