Yesterday morning I had the dreaded rattle on start up - gave it an oil change in case that was a cheap simple fix, but no, this morning rattle and whistle like take off for a minute until oil got round.

 

Be extortionate to get the local specialist to do, the car is immaculate and already spent out last year having new rear caliper, brakes all round and cambelt/water pump done. 

 

Is it easy to do yourself, would you use patent parts rather than genuine?

Edited 15 July, 20169 yr by Zoe

Sounds like you have a clogged oil pick up strainer. Not expensive to replace.

Hoping it could be that causing the slap rather than the tensioner then, knew should've had the sump off when oil change was done (I can't fit under the car ATM!)

Could still be the chain tensioner, but blocked oil pick up is a very common problem.

IIRC the cam chain tensioner has some adjustment? :think:

Not an easy job unless you know what you are doing.

Personally I wouldn't risk it.

Maybe an expensive job but a new engine will be a lot more. I'd get it sorted asap if I were you.

I think the first question if you are even giving this even passing consideration, is have you ever had the top half of an engine in pieces in-situ before?, and what in your opinion on a 1-10 scale is your level of mechanical expertise?.

 

This is not a job to be undertaken lightly, and will require the use of a special tool to compress and hold the chain tensioner during removal. You will also have to retime the valve timing following the tensioner's fitment.

 

Being able to work in a clean environment is very important with this type of job.

 

As has been already said, check your strainer first as these two are directly related for good oil pressure when cold.

Edited 15 July, 20169 yr by kentphil1

Am I being thick here? Cam CHAIN on a Mk. 1? Mine's got a belt?

 

Or is this on a diesel engine?

It does have a belt as you say, but your belt only drives one cam sprocket. At the other end of the cylinder head is a chain driving the inlet cam off the exhaust cam.

Well stone me!!! Five years I've had this car, and been a member on here, and I had no idea about that!

 

Every day is indeed a school day!

 

ETA: In which case, does anyone know the rationale of such a setup? Why not just have completely internal camchain driving both camshafts?

Edited 15 July, 20169 yr by Ray Luxury-Yacht

Something to do with variable valve timing?

Could be....but 'Onda's have a camchain driving both and they've got VTEC....

 

Strange.....

It is all to do with saving weight on rotating mass on the valve train, also, vvt as standard only works when SAI is in operation, unless your car is mapped differently. The tensioner controls vvt, which is why good oil pressure is so important to avoid camshaft sensor out of range errors.

 

And as every day is a school day, just for Ray Luxury-Yacht  - http://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk1/drive_unit/1.8_ltr./132_kw_engine_mechanical_components/engine_cylinder_head_valve_gear/repairing_valve_gear/

Edited 16 July, 20169 yr by kentphil1

Taking off a sump is as technical as I'd like to get, don't get involved with timing, too scary!  Jason is qualified, but doesn't like to get his hands dirty these days, it's a lot less stressful (although expensive) to send it to the local VAG indy garage.

 

Good news though is the awful noise was down to one of the air pipes had split.  Remember replacing loads of vacuum pipe on my last one as they just become perished.  Will code read it later, good news it's not the tensioner though!  

Good news