So the diesel bath barely made a dent in the carbon buildup in the manifold, but the oven cleaner worked really well in comparison.
2 rounds last night and then left it in a bath of oven cleaner mixed with water over night so hopefully its all good today.
started preparing some small things like putting feed connector on the turbo and oilreturn hose etc, will put the turbo in tonight.

Intake cleaned out and turbos on the car now, progress atleast but a bit to slow...

So i took the mapp out to have a look, found som things like a bit high on the bosst for 3 bar mapsensor and egr is going to be mapped out...

Is anyone in here interested to have a look?

Attached file just remove the .jpg

EDIt: could not attach, pm if you want to have a look...

Edited 28 August, 20169 yr by tonysandberg

Egr cooler deleted!

So I have been at it a bit at a time...

 

EGR delete for the BLT so that I can keep asv, bought it from "aditech" polish company...

 

And this is how I left it today, might be a while before startup due to working these 7 days.

 

 

So I have been at it a bit at a time...

 

EGR delete for the BLT so that I can keep asv, bought it from "aditech" polish company...

 

And this is how I left it today, might be a while before startup due to working these 7 days.

 

 

 

Done today:

1. intercooler piping completed and a few joints removed.

2. Mixed and fiiled coolant

3. replaced rear hr springs

4. "adjusted" the exhaust hangers

5. tried the xenon headlights left one was badly repaired before so I will try to change the housing with the one from the halogen one I have on. right one had a broken bulb but works otherwise.

Left to do:

1. Fill oil

2. mount aixbox and tip pipe

3. pull the starter a few turns with the injectors not plugged in so a get oil to the turbo.

4. Official startup!

 

And here is the pic that didn't make it in....

Edited 29 August, 20169 yr by tonysandberg

two questions!
1.Does anyone know if the org 3bar map sensor on the BLT will only read up to 1.55bars(2.55 atm)

2. do you think placing an egt sensor in the egr cover at the exhaust manifold will work?

two questions!

1.Does anyone know if the org 3bar map sensor on the BLT will only read up to 1.55bars(2.55 atm)

2. do you think placing an egt sensor in the egr cover at the exhaust manifold will work?

 

I have gotten answers for both questions by myslef with a bit of google....

1. Diagnostic limit is for some reason set in my map at this level, will try to modify this by following a thread by a member here but on another forum.

2. This works but you need a long probe ( 4-5") to reach the flow of exhaust gas this way, but it is a bad idea because long probes tend to brake off due to vibrations and go in to turbo/engine... will consult with my tuner if I really need one on my level.

 

So the car is back on the road, only thing left now is to adjust stop screw and the vnt actuator, i get boost late and to much, it spikes above readable values for my 3bar map sensor.

Been in contact with supplier and got some advice in what to do.

I got a new remap adjusted for this turbo from "ak-tuning" wich theoreticly gives 191 bhp and 478nm, there will be more when gearbox/clutch,flywheel issues are corrected

I might just load an ABT remap that is safe and run it over the winter and then bring it to the dyno for my goal of 200bhp and 500nm in springtime.

But for now, this is alot of power! i am taking it really easy when comuting now, keeping it below 2500rpm to make sure i dont spike anymore before adjusting.

I always thought the boost spikes could be adjusted with the map as well to a degree.
What bar / PSI do you want it to sit at when it's got the gearbox and clutch issues sorted?

Does it feel quicker than before?

I always thought the boost spikes could be adjusted with the map as well to a degree.

What bar / PSI do you want it to sit at when it's got the gearbox and clutch issues sorted?

Does it feel quicker than before?

you can adjust alot in software like lowering fuel amount and adjusting the n75 map to open the vnt more at spikes but this is such a big spike

I want tohave the hardware in order feels better than using software to compensate something that is not ccrrect hardware wise.

It is not something i think is a sustainable way of building on a car.

Yes, very big difference in power but looking back at it the turbo that broke probably was bad/missing blades the whole time.

but it will only get better with adjusting.

my planned boost is 1.6bar or 2600mbar(absolute) there is possibility for more on this turbo but i want to keep it safe.

and as mentioned above i get spikes above 3000mbars

Edited 13 September, 20169 yr by tonysandberg

That sounds good to me. My turbo is dying as well as you have heard and i suspect it's a very early model of one similar to yours (fitted back in 2007)
Mines runs 1.55bar and with no smoke it's almost as quick as my friends EP3 Civic Type R but my blades might be damaged as well.

Did you use a 57mm to 51mm 90 degree reducer elbow from your ASV to plastic boost pipe?

That sounds good to me. My turbo is dying as well as you have heard and i suspect it's a very early model of one similar to yours (fitted back in 2007)

Mines runs 1.55bar and with no smoke it's almost as quick as my friends EP3 Civic Type R but my blades might be damaged as well.

Did you use a 57mm to 51mm 90 degree reducer elbow from your ASV to plastic boost pipe?

still oemhose there, will put the reducer as you mention 51-57mm silicone hose when replacing the plasticpipe with an aluminium pipe.

Do you mean your turbo is a hybrid or original kkk bv39?

In the service history i got with my car it has a receipt for a Garrett hybrid turbo (but doesn't specify which one) fitted back in 2007-2008 if i remember. It's done about 100,000 miles since then so no complaints really. Just a shame i can't find out which hybrid it has.

In the service history i got with my car it has a receipt for a Garrett hybrid turbo (but doesn't specify which one) fitted back in 2007-2008 if i remember. It's done about 100,000 miles since then so no complaints really. Just a shame i can't find out which hybrid it has.

There is nothing on the turbo housing?

sometimes supplier replaces marking sign.

Anyone got any tips on adjusting vnt actuator and stopscrew? its a bit hard to get to with out taking off a lot of piping or burning on the exhaust...

I had to adjust the stop screw and actuator length on my GTB turbo, I did the adjustment each morning before starting the car so it was cold (half a turn each time), then got it to running temperature and did the VCDS-Lite test (basic settings - group 4) to measure the pressure difference between open and closed vanes, once I was happy with the stop screw adjustment I used a vacuum pump to make sure at 18 on the gauge the actuator was hitting the stop screw (actuator rod adjustment was needed).

 

I cut down an 8mm spanner to make it easier to undo the stop screw lock nut, after a couple of goes it was quiet easy to do and only took a couple of minutes each time, I did it from under the car which is why I did it with a cold engine.

Really nice to see a fellow swede fabia project!

Nice reading material:) where in Sweden are you located?

I had to adjust the stop screw and actuator length on my GTB turbo, I did the adjustment each morning before starting the car so it was cold (half a turn each time), then got it to running temperature and did the VCDS-Lite test (basic settings - group 4) to measure the pressure difference between open and closed vanes, once I was happy with the stop screw adjustment I used a vacuum pump to make sure at 18 on the gauge the actuator was hitting the stop screw (actuator rod adjustment was needed).

 

I cut down an 8mm spanner to make it easier to undo the stop screw lock nut, after a couple of goes it was quiet easy to do and only took a couple of minutes each time, I did it from under the car which is why I did it with a cold engine.

 

How the hell did you get access to the screw? I cant even see it with out getting under the car...

 

 

Really nice to see a fellow swede fabia project!

Nice reading material:) where in Sweden are you located?

 

 

Im located in Västerås!

 

 

How the hell did you get access to the screw? I cant even see it with out getting under the car...

 

I jacked the car up and got to the stop screw from underneath, I left the under tray off until I was happy with the adjustment.

 

So each morning jack the drivers side up, axle stand under, adjust screw 1/2 turn and drop car back on floor, only takes a few minutes.

I jacked the car up and got to the stop screw from underneath, I left the under tray off until I was happy with the adjustment.

 

So each morning jack the drivers side up, axle stand under, adjust screw 1/2 turn and drop car back on floor, only takes a few minutes.

 

 

Allright, you used group 4 on basic settings? I thought it was group 11?

My mistake Basic settings - 04 > Group 11

 

When I fitted the turbo the difference between fully open and closed vanes was 84 mbar on this test and it was very laggy and slow to come on boost, I adjusted it until it was 160 mbar on the test and this fixed the lag and slow spooling up. 

Edited 24 September, 20169 yr by duck

Might be a bit easier to adjust vnt screw and actuator with this.

Car is sold, some parts for sale.

Salethread comming...

Wow, what happened?