Rear dashcam - where to power it from?

[RobertP]

I have a front facing dashcam working fine and have bought a second to look backwards attached to the rear window. There is a 12V socket in the boot but as I have a hardwire kit I'd like ignition switched power and neat wiring.

 

Any suggestions where to find it at the back of an estate? I couldn't see an easy way to route cables from the glove box fuses like the front camera uses - unless someone knows different.

 

Thanks in advance

[Gizmo]

There is no easy way, I ran my cable from the fuse box down the passenger side sill (behind the plastic trim) then across the car under the carpet just in front of the rear seat, then into the boot behind the 12v socket.

[Guest]

Not sure if there are any differences in the rear wiper motor setup on an S3 estate over an O2 estate, but that is where my Transcend Drivepro 200 is hard wired into.

Works a treat!

[RobertP]

There is no easy way, I ran my cable from the fuse box down the passenger side sill (behind the plastic trim) then across the car under the carpet just in front of the rear seat, then into the boot behind the 12v socket.

I looked at the sill trim and saw that was possible but couldn't see how to get from there to the back. I assume you took the felt like trim to the boot side off - how does it release? And having got to the 12V socket area how do you get to the rear window so that the tailgate opens without cables flapping..

 

 

Not sure if there are any differences in the rear wiper motor setup on an S3 estate over an O2 estate, but that is where my Transcend Drivepro 200 is hard wired into.

Works a treat!

 

Sounds ideal if ignition switched power is present near the tailgate wiper. I've no idea how to remove the internal plastic door lining/ window surround. does it just prize/snap off?

[Tech1e]

The few I've installed the rear cam powers off the front one. I just tucked the link lead along the edge of the headlining.

[Gizmo]

Ah yes if you have a rear wiper then that is the best place to power it, the tailgate trim will need to come off, usually held on by a couple of screws then loads of spring clips.

I routed my cables from the body to the tailgate through the OE cable rubbers, the only cables that are visible are where they come out of the trim and go into the camera (about an inch or so).

[RobertP]

I've ordered some plastic pry tools from ebay to help get the tailgate trim off without marking it.

 

I've had the camera a couple of weeks waiting to get round to installing it so a few more days won't hurt.

 

having watched a few youtube videos on removing VW rear trims it doesn't look too difficult but seems to always need a pry tool to get it started.

 

I'm guessing the S3 will use similar snap fixings and there will be screws under these covers...

 

 

[dstev2000]

I've ordered some plastic pry tools from ebay to help get the tailgate trim off without marking it.

 

I've had the camera a couple of weeks waiting to get round to installing it so a few more days won't hurt.

 

having watched a few youtube videos on removing VW rear trims it doesn't look too difficult but seems to always need a pry tool to get it started.

 

I'm guessing the S3 will use similar snap fixings and there will be screws under these covers...

 

From memory: There are 3 small removable covers on the boot trim. The one on its own is a dummy for when the electric tailgate is not fitted. That one normally houses the rubber dongle thingy you tug to get the tailgate down. Insert euphemisms as required........

 

The other two that are on the left and right sides of the trim conceal a torx screw that allows removal of the small light cluster that lives on the tailgate itself, rather than the larger clusters on each side. 

 

IIRC, you don't need to touch these to get the trim off. Also, make sure you remove and disconnect the interior lights that are built into the trim. 

 

You also need to be careful with the tailgate close button on the outer lip of the trim. Obviously this has a wire running to it. 

 

When the trim releases, it can drop all of a sudden and will rip out any of these wires if still attached. You can pry the trim around it and get your fingers in to disconnect the cable. 

 

Getting the trim back on is a ****** - there's no sugar coating it. It has to engage with the upper section of plastic trim before the spring clips can be pushed home. 

 

Be careful with the tailgate, it might be wise to pull the fuse before working on it so as not to accidentally activate it when you're fiddling about with it. 

 

If you want to run a cable through one of the two rubber conduits, use the driver's side as the other one has the washer hose running through it. You can easily tell which one has more space in it. 

[RobertP]

Getting the trim back on is a ****** - there's no sugar coating it. It has to engage with the upper section of plastic trim before the spring clips can be pushed home. 

 

Be careful with the tailgate, it might be wise to pull the fuse before working on it so as not to accidentally activate it when you're fiddling about with it. 

 

If you want to run a cable through one of the two rubber conduits, use the driver's side as the other one has the washer hose running through it. You can easily tell which one has more space in it. 

 

Thanks for the tips. At least when I'm cursing while trying to get the panel back on it I'll know it was to be expected and not down to my inexperience.

 

From what was said previously in the thread I was expecting to find an ignition switched live going to the wiper motor so shouldn't need to feed anything through the rubber conduits - just tap off the switched live to the hardwire kit (via a low value fuse).

[dstev2000]

Thanks for the tips. At least when I'm cursing while trying to get the panel back on it I'll know it was to be expected and not down to my inexperience.

 

From what was said previously in the thread I was expecting to find an ignition switched live going to the wiper motor so shouldn't need to feed anything through the rubber conduits - just tap off the switched live to the hardwire kit (via a low value fuse).

My rear camera is fed from the main unit that's stuck to the windscreen. Running the cable from there to the tailgate was an utter PITA. I had to be very careful routing the cable so as not to interfere with the curtain airbags, and their potential deployment.

There's plenty going on in the tailgate as well!

[RobertP]

My pry tools arrived today so I may have to face it soon.

 

If as suggested earlier in post #3 there is ignition switched power to the rear wiper, why didn't you pick up power from there? I'm beginning to doubt finding power will be that easy.

Edited 27 July, 2016 by RobertP

[dstev2000]

With my camera (Thinkware F770) the power is sent to the main unit at the front. This is via a Powermagic Pro that allows the camera to run even when the ignition is off. If the car's voltage drops below x volts (adjustable via DIP switches), the camera is shut off. 

 

The rear camera takes its power supply from the the main unit via a USB cable, video is also sent back to the main unit via this cable. Because of this design, I had no choice but to run the cable from the main unit on the windscreen, all the way through the car and into the tailgate.

 

Yes, it was a horrible job, but the whole thing took around 2 hours to complete, and the end result is a neat install with no more than 2 inches of cable visible at the main unit. The worst parts were of course the rubber cable ducts between the chassis and tailgate, and routing the power supply to the fuse board behind the glovebox. The Mk2's fuse box was behind the light switch and was therefore a doddle to route down the A pillar and straight onto the fuses. 

 

I looked at a twin front and rear camera set up, rather than the dual system I currently have. The position of the rear camera when stuck on the tailgate glass means its in my line of sight when I look in the rear view mirror. Secondary cameras are always much smaller than the main units as they don't have to incorporate GPS, SD cards, power management, microphones etc etc. A main camera stuck to the rear glass would be too bulky for my taste. 

[RobertP]

Thanks again for the reassuring reply!

 

I'll post pictures of my efforts when I do get on with it. probably at the weekend.

[dstev2000]

Good luck with it 

 

Just be careful with the electric tailgate. I triggered it a few times when struggling with the tailgate inner trim replacement. Pulling on it no doubt triggered it to close. Trouble is, there was no button fitted at the time to stop it from closing on me, as I was sitting on the boot lip at the time. 

 

Maybe consider pulling the fuse for it or disconnecting the battery.