Thinking about buying a mk1 Octavia... tips?

[alessio92]

Hi all. First venture into this section of the forum for me...

 

I've had an offer for my Fabia (2002 1.9SDI) and although I didn't have any plans to sell immediately, I'm considering cashing in, putting in some savings and buying myself a MK1 Octavia estate as I'm at a point where I have the flexibility in life to be without a car for a couple of months or so whilst I find the right one.

 

I'd be looking at a budget of around £800-1000 (limited because my insurance will go up from what it is now, so need a bit of cash aside to cover that) and would be after a 1.9TDI. Doesn't give me a huge amount of options but there have been one or two on Auto Trader recently that have looked half decent.

 

I've been doing a bit of research but I'm slightly confused about a few things.

 

First of all, I believe that as with the MKIV Golf, the MK1 Octy's 1.9TDI is available with a few different power ratings - 90hp being standard but also 110 and 130, I think... and I thought I'd read somewhere that it was available as a 100hp with a 6-speed manual gearbox but looking at Parker's list online I couldn't see a 100hp option. I'd love a 6-speed 'box as my mate's PD110 golf always felt like it needed a 6th gear on the motorway but I don't know which engines that came with as standard.

 

Secondly, please can someone explain what the trim levels were and what the differences were in terms of kit as standard? I want to avoid an absolute base model as that's what my furby is - l dont even have a front passenger airbag. I think Skoda changed the names of some of the trim levels half way through the production run or something, and googling 'Octavia MK1 trim levels' took me to the Wikipedia page which says jack-all about it!

 

 

Finally, anything specific I should check up on if viewing a car? I know a car for under a grand won't be perfect, and that's fine, I don't need it to be. But ideally I want to avoid anything obvious that might smack me with a massive bill a month after buying, where possible.

 

Cheers!

[Guest]

Hi there and welcome to the mk1 page. The Octavia estate is a fantastic car, as I own one. They come in 90, 110 and 130bhp versions in diesel format, the 130 being a PD engine that was only fitted into the L&K models, with 6 speed manual transmission.

Depending on what year your looking at buying depends on models, there was a facelift to the Octavia in 2000 I think, the models after that year were Ambiente, Elegance and Laurin & Klement, in diesel format. The Elegance has a very good trim level as standard, but can be specked up too. I was lucky with mine, as it had cruse control, centre arm rest, 6 disc CD changer and false floor in the boot. Not sure if they were standard or options taken by original owner.

They are easily modified too as they are based on Mk4 Golf chassis, the only model that had a 6 speed box was the L&K unfortunately, and they are hard to come by.

Hope this is of some help to you? Here are some pictures of my estate.

[yesiamtom]

simspj, I think the pd130 came on some other models but very sporadically at the end of the original lifespan of the octavia, not counting taxis registered late. Pretty sure I've read the PD130 engine came in quite a few Ambientes right at the end, and I've seen an Elegance which has the badge to indicate it has a pd130 engine, of course, the badge could be wrong so who knows! 

 

Allessio, I have the Elegance spec one and I think it's very good. It's one below the L&K which is essentially the "best" trim. I went for Elegance as it has climate control, rather than regular AC.

 

Important things to consider with the diesel are when was the cambelt last done? This is a 4 year/40-60k mile job and will cost £3-400. If theres no receipt consider it not done, a snapped cambelt on these engines will do serious damage to them, most likely costing more to fix than the car is worth. Often the turbos on these diesels will gum up because people nanny them and don't realise you sometimes need to rag them ****ing senseless when the oil is up to temperature. The vanes in the turbo get sticky, get stuck in a position when you go full throttle, then the car goes into limp mode until you turn it off and on again. It's easy to tell you're in limp mode because the car will struggle to get above 2000rpm. Accelerating up a hill under full throttle from a low rpm all the way to 4k odd rpm in 1-2 gears should reveal any limp mode problems...

 

These cars are pretty sturdy and will go on a long time, if you look after the engine, clutch and gearbox then the rest of the car will probably fall apart around them. At least, that's what mine is doing 

[DAN@ADRIAN FLUX]

Hi,

If you do need any help with insurance at all then please feel free to drop me a line.

Regards,

Dan.

[alessio92]

Thanks so much. I wouldn't be looking for a top-spec model at the moment and I'd be keeping it stock for now so the L&K model probably isn't for me. Feel quite reassured from what you guys have said. 

 

I forgot to ask - what potential issues should I be aware of if the car has a towbar, as many do?

Thanks again.

[Guest]

simspj, I think the pd130 came on some other models but very sporadically at the end of the original lifespan of the octavia, not counting taxis registered late. Pretty sure I've read the PD130 engine came in quite a few Ambientes right at the end, and I've seen an Elegance which has the badge to indicate it has a pd130 engine, of course, the badge could be wrong so who knows! 

 

Allessio, I have the Elegance spec one and I think it's very good. It's one below the L&K which is essentially the "best" trim. I went for Elegance as it has climate control, rather than regular AC.

 

Important things to consider with the diesel are when was the cambelt last done? This is a 4 year/40-60k mile job and will cost £3-400. If theres no receipt consider it not done, a snapped cambelt on these engines will do serious damage to them, most likely costing more to fix than the car is worth. Often the turbos on these diesels will gum up because people nanny them and don't realise you sometimes need to rag them kitten senseless when the oil is up to temperature. The vanes in the turbo get sticky, get stuck in a position when you go full throttle, then the car goes into limp mode until you turn it off and on again. It's easy to tell you're in limp mode because the car will struggle to get above 2000rpm. Accelerating up a hill under full throttle from a low rpm all the way to 4k odd rpm in 1-2 gears should reveal any limp mode problems...

 

These cars are pretty sturdy and will go on a long time, if you look after the engine, clutch and gearbox then the rest of the car will probably fall apart around them. At least, that's what mine is doing 

 

Yesiamtom I wasn't to sure on the 130PD lump in other models, but what you say makes sense as most manufacturers throw everything at cars at the end of the run of models.

[Guest]

Thanks so much. I wouldn't be looking for a top-spec model at the moment and I'd be keeping it stock for now so the L&K model probably isn't for me. Feel quite reassured from what you guys have said. 

 

I forgot to ask - what potential issues should I be aware of if the car has a towbar, as many do?

Thanks again.

There isn't really any issue with one fitted with a towbar as the cars are quite capable of towing easily. The only thing would be to check the operation of the clutch to make sure there is no slipping (high gear at low speed then accelerate hard and listen for eninge revs increasing without an increase in road speed). As long as there is a very good service history with the car it should be fine. Mine has a towbar and pulls our trailer on holiday and me my wife, two children and a 9 stone German Shepherd easily.

[KenONeill]

A 100bhp engine will be a 2.0TDi, not a 1.9.

 

The 90 (Ambiante) will have an all black "TDi"; a 110 (Elegance and some L&K) will be "TDi" and a 130 will be "TDi" probably with a 6-speed box.

As to "needing an extra gear" the 110 has 30mph/1000rpm in 5th, and the 130 with the 6-speed has 35mph/1000rpm. The 110 is geared "about right" based on it theoretically (never been to Germany) reaching maximum speed of 120mph at peak power revs of 4_000.

[alessio92]

There isn't really any issue with one fitted with a towbar as the cars are quite capable of towing easily. The only thing would be to check the operation of the clutch to make sure there is no slipping (high gear at low speed then accelerate hard and listen for eninge revs increasing without an increase in road speed). As long as there is a very good service history with the car it should be fine. Mine has a towbar and pulls our trailer on holiday and me my wife, two children and a 9 stone German Shepherd easily.

A 9 stone German Shepherd?! Maaaaan... (and thanks! )

 

A 100bhp engine will be a 2.0TDi, not a 1.9.

 

The 90 (Ambiante) will have an all black "TDi"; a 110 (Elegance and some L&K) will be "TDi" and a 130 will be "TDi" probably with a 6-speed box.

As to "needing an extra gear" the 110 has 30mph/1000rpm in 5th, and the 130 with the 6-speed has 35mph/1000rpm. The 110 is geared "about right" based on it theoretically (never been to Germany) reaching maximum speed of 120mph at peak power revs of 4_000.

So is the trim level directly related to the engine size/power? And is the colouring of the leetters the same as you'd get on a MKIV Golf?

 

Cheers

[KenONeill]

A 9 stone German Shepherd?! Maaaaan... (and thanks! )

 

So is the trim level directly related to the engine size/power? And is the colouring of the leetters the same as you'd get on a MKIV Golf?

 

Cheers

Not as such; if there was such a thing as a Classic trim with a TDi, it would be a 90 (but I've never seen one). As others late examples of the Ambiante (and L&K; dunno about the Elegance) have 130 and the 6-speed box.

 

Letter colour is is the same as the Golf IV yes (and Audis and Seats with the 1.9TDi, oh yes and Ford Galaxys with it too).

[Outofthi5world]

And the 1.9 TDI 110 BHP is a fantastic engine with a sound gearbox to, I have an Octavia that used to be an Elegance with the 110 engine in it that has done 202,000 miles and that runs sweet as a nut. You can thrash them and they love it. Change down to 3rd gear at 90 mph? That's fine sir, as you wish.

[andy-fisher]

I had a 1.9 tdi GLX which had reasonable spec and is still going now with over 190,000 on the clock (not mine anymore though). When I sold it in 2011 I knew I'd underpriced it at £900 as the phone didn't stop ringing! That only had 90bhp and returned about 55mpg. It didn't have any problems while I had it apart from its electric windows. Seemed to be replacing the plastic clips at regular intervals. I sold it with 155,000 on the clock and still had all the original major components less the window regulators, and one shock absorber. Obviously it had the usual oil changes, brake pads/discs and cam belt changes but was still on it original exhaust, clutch etc. Best car I've ever had.

Edited 18 August, 2016 by andy-fisher

[petrolbloke]

Change down to 3rd gear at 90 mph? That's fine sir, as you wish.

Wouldn't that over-rev the engine? Even if it doesn't over rev and you don't rev match it will be asking a lot of the transmission.

 

Why on earth would you want to change down to third at 90mph in a 110bhp diesel anyway?!

Edited 18 August, 2016 by vrsTom

[Outofthi5world]

Wouldn't that over-rev the engine? Even if it doesn't over rev and you don't rev match it will be asking a lot of the transmission.

 

Why on earth would you want to change down to third at 90mph in a 110bhp diesel anyway?!

Because race car, that's why. It's only the Croctavia so it doesn't matter. :p

[Dr Zoidberg]

A 100bhp engine will be a 2.0TDi, not a 1.9.

 

The 90 (Ambiante) will have an all black "TDi"; a 110 (Elegance and some L&K) will be "TDi" and a 130 will be "TDi" probably with a 6-speed box.

As to "needing an extra gear" the 110 has 30mph/1000rpm in 5th, and the 130 with the 6-speed has 35mph/1000rpm. The 110 is geared "about right" based on it theoretically (never been to Germany) reaching maximum speed of 120mph at peak power revs of 4_000.

There was also an Ambiente SE with the PD130 engine, from around 2004, or taxi spec PD100 1.9s.

I'd recommend going for an Elegance with the 110 as its a good spec and a fine engine, but the main problem is going to be finding a tidy car in budget.

[ruffday]

I ran a Ambiente SE 130 company car and it was a fantastic car. Did 98,000 miles in 2 years without fault.

Never dropped below 48mpg and I drove it hard. Would crack pull 125mph on the sat nav with some in reserve. (Autobhan)

A guy I work with bought it and put another 30,000 in 18 month and couldnt stop smileing.

 

Good ones are still holding thier money though and I would expect a really good one with lowish miles and good history( under 120,00 ) to be in the £1500-2000. 

[Dean]

Octavia vRS buying Guide

First point - vRS and RS are the same. You may see it described as either in adverts but it is the same car.

Basic checks to do:
Check service history, V5 and all receipts for any work done & modifications

Check cambelt and water pump have been done, every 4 years or 60,000 miles. If not done within the last 3 years then try and knock the seller down £300 as you will need to pay to have it done yourself within a year.

HPI check if not provided already

Check panels are flush, no signs of overspray, appearance of accident damage

VIN numbers match V5 - these are on a plaque in the engine bay, or on a plaque at the bottom of the windscreen

Suspension in good condition, no rust or damage

If possible, jack the car up and check:

Wheel bearings ok (hug each wheel and see if it can be rocked from left to right or up and down, if not then its ok)

Driveshafts ok - no splits in rubber gaiters

Exhaust in good condition and no mounts broken, any heatshields secured correctly - if exhaust looks very rusty then budget for a new one

Brakes not binding on rear wheels (chock front wheels, take handbrake off and rotate each wheel to check, if binding then could need a new caliper)

Check condition and wear on tyres (including spare)

Then pop the bonnet and check:

Check oil, coolant, brake fluid and power steering fluid levels

Oil should not be overly dark and thick (shows it hasn't been changed in a while)

Coolant should not contain oil and vice versa.

Mayonnaise on the bottom of the oil filler cap does not necessarily indicate headgasket failure, sometimes moisture can accumulate and do this. Combined with a lack of coolant though it is possible there is HG failure.

Check general condition of engine bay, any signs of leaks or split hoses

If the car is a vRS the engine code should be AUQ, this is stamped on the front LH side of the engine block and should also be in the sticker in the manual with all the three digit option codes on it. If this engine code is different then it has had a different 1.8T engine transplanted in and this should be indicated on the V5.

Start car and check for smoke from the exhaust. There should be some white smoke at start-up which is condensation in the exhaust system but this should clear.

Check the dashboard for any warning lights. If the Engine Management light stays on then there are stored fault codes and it will need a scan (see below)

Let the car warm up and rev it, then look for smoke from the exhaust:

If there is persistant white smoke it can indicate a headgasket problem, or a turbo problem

If there is persistant black smoke it is running rich, check for problems with the fuel injection

If there is persistant blue smoke it is burning oil, could be a problem with the valve stem seals

Check operation of all electrics - wipers, washers, windows, horn, electric mirrors, air conditioning, stereo, lights including foglights, interior lights, instrument lights and door puddle lights (get someone to help you).

Check all doors lock with remote - central locking is expensive to fix

Check there are no water leaks in the footwells or boot

Check brake pedal is not spongy, and that the handbrake goes on firmly

Check when you press the ASR button to turn traction control off it lights up and the traction control light on the dashboard comes on, then turn it back on again.

If the car is a 4x4 Turbo or WRC vRS, Check when you press the ESP button to turn ESP off it lights up and the ABS light on the dashboard comes on, then turn it back on again.

Look at wear and tear on seats and whether the belts retract properly. These are signs of age and high mileage, so if the clock is only showing 20,000 miles then ask some questions

Take the car for a test drive on various roads, including some around town driving, some country A-roads, some motorway or dual carriageway and at least one opportunity to do a hill start.

Check steering - if car pulls to one side then brakes could be binding, tracking could be out and a wheel could be unevenly worn, or suspension could be damaged.

Check brakes (if safe to do so), car should not pull to one side under braking and if braking hard you should feel and hear the ABS kick in

Check clutch - after changing gear, if revs rise quickly when accelerating but the car does not accelerate then the clutch is on its way out.

Gearchanges should be smooth and not notchy, if changing gear is like stirring glue then the bushes have probably gone.

You should hear the turbo start to spool up at just over 1800 revs in each gear, it will make a whistling noise. If you can't hear it try with the windows down and driving alongside a wall.

The whistling should die down at somewhere between 3000 and 4000 revs, this is when the wastegate is fully open and it is not producing any more boost.

If it has a boost guage it should be making around 10psi or 0.72bar of boost if it is a standard car. If 14psi/1bar or more then suspect a remap, if a lot less than 10psi then there is a boost leak problem.

Non vRS 1.8Ts (150bhp) should be 7psi or 0.5 bar standard.

If you have access to a fault scanner or VAG-Com then plug it in to the onboard diagnostics port under the steering wheel to see if there are any fault codes.

Finally, the Mk1 Octavia vRS is widely available at the moment so don't feel pressurised into buying a car you are not 100% happy about.

Problems peculiar to the vRS / Octavia:
(do a search in the Octavia I forum for more information on any of these)

Exhaust hanging low / lopsided - centre or rear exhaust mount stretched or broken

Water leaks in boot - this is normally where the rear washer pipe has popped off the washer and flooded the boot. Can affect the CD changer (see below)

Coil packs - When these go the engine will misfire and run very rough, they are about ?30 from Skoda to replace with the newer version.

CD Changer - Can be shorted out by water leaks (see above) and also faulty due to dust entering when owners have left the top slide open. Replacements can be bought on ebay.

Mooing brakes - Rear brakes make a loud groaning noise when reversing and braking. This was a known issue by Skoda who brought out chamfered edged pads to fix it but some members have found only re-conditioning the calipers has solved the problem for them.

ARB bushes - The bushes wear out and the ARB corrodes underneath. This is indicated by a clonking noise when going over bumps.

Central locking problems - Connections in the microswitches in the doors deteriorate and need to be resoldered

Secondary air pump - Rivets holding the two halves of the pump together wear out and it makes a lot of noise on cold-startup. This can be fixed by bolting the two halves together.

Radiator mounts - The bottom of the radiator moves back and forward quite a lot and the mounts can deteriorate.

17705 fault - This indicates a boost leak in the pipework somewhere and can be very difficult to track down

Headlight levelling motors - These tend to get moisture in them and short out. Check them by using the control to the right of the steering wheel, they are currently £29 each to replace.

Air con recirc flap motor - This can make odd noises behind the glovebox and while its not a problem it's irritating

Corrosion on boot lid on Estates - Corrosion particularly around the handle area, may be covered under warranty from Skoda?

Faulty dash displays - faulty rev and speed counters, although this problem only seems to be on non 1.8T Octavias
 

Optional Extras:
small things - vRS door sill plates (worth £80), vRS mats (worth £90), front mudguards (worth £16), luggage net

options - cruise control, reverse parking sensors, xenon headlights (standard on WRC models), heated seats (standard on WRC models), sunroof, ESP (standard on WRC models), passenger airbag deactivation switch, satellite navigation and multifunction display

toolkit - from new this included a jack, wheel brace, dustcap cover remover, locking wheel nut key, a wire tool to remove the plastic hub covers, a plastic handled phillips screwdriver and a 7mm spanner. Some Non-vRS octavias also have a towing eye.

 

Buying Modified:
Check that the seller has paperwork for all modifications carried out as you will need to be able to declare any and all modifications to your insurers. Get an insurance quote with the modifications included before you think about buying the car!

Closely check the condition of the tyres, brakes, suspension and oil, as the car may have been driven harder than usual.

Modifications may increase the appeal of the car, but modification that hasn't been done properly or carefully may end up costing you a lot in the long run.

If the car was remapped on 98 RON fuel it should have been run regularly on 98 RON, not 95 RON or it will lose performance.

If previously owned by a member on Briskoda, search for their forum name then click "Find Content" on their profile to see previous posts about the car, you can then see what problems it's had in the past, what's been done to it and if it sounds well looked after.

 

(As previously mentioned by Eyebrow)
http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/137484-vrs-buying-guide-please-read/
 

Edited 19 August, 2016 by DeanVRS20VT