I am having problems securing the lower boost pipe onto the turbo, mainly due to the 'lugs' on the turbo pipe itself. Putting the silicone elbow over the lugs was a no go as neither a jubilee clip or hydraulic type mikalor clamp could create a seal due to the offending lugs. This left me with the option of putting the clip on the end of the turbo pipe, with only an inch or so of purchase. This in turn meant the silicone elbow rubbed against the wheel arch and started to split open (it managed to wear through to the 'thread' layer of the silicone), I have solved this dilemma by simply chopping a strip from the wheel arch to prevent it from happening again. However antics (completely legal... ) with a Porsche this weekend have pushed the boost pipe off the turbo and against the droplink, splitting it on the already weakened section too. Resulting in a serious boost leak, such a hiss like I've never heard, so I drove home off boost and have dusted off the push bike instead.

I have ordered a fresh elbow but obviously want to prevent the same thing happening.

My ideas are: buy a 'constant pressure' type jubilee clip, the expensive ones, and try the current position.

Apply some form of glue or bonding sealant to the turbo pipe and then fit the boost pipe (downside to this would obviously mean cutting the pipe off should I ever need to remove it, also would glue melt/soften with the temperature from the turbo pipe?)

Or to find out how the Audi A6's boost pipe was secured to the turbo; I'd assume the use of the lugs, and modify something around an Audi A6 boost pipe.

I would like to of cut the lugs off the turbo but don't want to compromise or weaken the outlet. Not to mention the time spent to take the turbo out.

Any suggestions are very welcome and appreciated.

JRJG

Got a pic?

My 1756 just had a normal outlet that a mikalor/jubilee works with perfectly

Got a pic?

My 1756 just had a normal outlet that a mikalor/jubilee works with perfectly

I'm about to jack it, axle stand it and crawl under so I will see what kind of picture I can get.

Bought some 'T Bolt' jubilee style clips from Darkside, so that option is covered, fingers crossed they will have a better grip/hold than the standard jubilee clip on currently.

JRJG

I can't see any different types of outlet looking on Google of a 1756.

Are you running the standard 1756 outlet angled,or has it been cut so it's at 90degrees?

I hope those are clear enough to give you an idea as to what I'm talking about by 'lugs'

JRJG

That's just a normal outlet,your pipe should butt up to those lugs,not go over them.

What diameter pipe are you using?

If your silicone pipe is touching the arch lining you need to cut it down before fitting,a standard 90 degree elbow usaully come with a 100mm leg length which is way too long.

That's just a normal outlet,your pipe should butt up to those lugs,not go over them.

What diameter pipe are you using?

If your silicone pipe is touching the arch lining you need to cut it down before fitting,a standard 90 degree elbow usaully come with a 100mm leg length which is way too long.

That sounds like a solution to problem number two.

I will refit in the same position with some of these 'improved' clips and all being well it should hold. The original one was from DS in their hard pipe kit to fit a gtb, so I would assume it is the correct diameter, I have ordered a new one that is definitely the correct diameter, I will compare the two when it arrives.

Thanks very much for your replies!

JRJG

The Samco 90 elbow works well (i use one rather than the DS one on 2260) and gives more room...........however, ideally you need a longer one and clock the turbo housing one notch to give you more clearance..........................

Fitted the new pipe just now. It seemed a lot tighter than the previous aged one, although I assume they do stretch slightly over time?

I see what you mean now Stuart about rotating the turbo slightly to gain a bit more clearance. cab this be done with the turbo in situ or is it nearly impossible unless removed? Also, would it even be possible without altering the downpipe? (Or am I talking dribble).

JRJG

To give an idea of how tighter it was - I couldn't stretch the pipe over the lugs, something that the previous pipe could do with reasonable ease.

Perhaps this tighter pipe will be all I needed to prevent it blowing off again!

Fitted the new pipe just now. It seemed a lot tighter than the previous aged one, although I assume they do stretch slightly over time?

I see what you mean now Stuart about rotating the turbo slightly to gain a bit more clearance. cab this be done with the turbo in situ or is it nearly impossible unless removed? Also, would it even be possible without altering the downpipe? (Or am I talking dribble).

JRJG

 

I've heard people saying they can rotate the housing with it still on the car but not sure i believe that!

I've heard people saying they can rotate the housing with it still on the car but not sure i believe that!

Yeah I can't imagine it being plausible.

Unless you have baby sized hands.

JRJG

I rotate the housing with the turbo (GTB1756) fitted, it was roughly in the correct position but needed a tweak to get the best alignment of the pIpework.

 

I would think it's pot luck getting it in the correct position first time when it's on the bench.

 

There was nothing hard about it, 10mm bolts if I remember correctly.

I just got a 60mm 90 bend put it over the top jubilee clipped it and hasn't blown off under stick

Didn't even need to cut it

I rotate the housing with the turbo (GTB1756) fitted, it was roughly in the correct position but needed a tweak to get the best alignment of the pIpework.

 

I would think it's pot luck getting it in the correct position first time when it's on the bench.

 

There was nothing hard about it, 10mm bolts if I remember correctly.

Can you remember how many there were, did you do it from underneath reaching up into the bay? Mine will only need a very slight rotation, 15 degrees or so, next to nothing but it will give the boost pipe a little bit more clearance and stop any future possible rubbing from happening.

 

I just got a 60mm 90 bend put it over the top jubilee clipped it and hasn't blown off under stick

If only that were the case for all of us!

Yes I did the rotation from under the car, sorry cannot remember how many bolts exactly, 5 or 6 maybe.

 

Less than 1/4 of a turn is needed to slacken it enough to turn.

Yeah you can clock the inlet housing easy enough in situ,the bolts aren't very tight.

Got a feeling they are 8mm though,could be 10mm can't remember!

Ha ha thats the problem with getting old........5 or 6 bolts, 8mm or 10mm in size I cannot remember 

 

I do remember that is was easy to do.

Rethinking the clocking. It won't be possible unfortunately. The reducer pipe from the turbo to turbo intake is already too short, in an awkward 'trying to be a swan neck' position.

By rotating the turbo further clockwise, to get the clearance on the bottom pipe, it would not leave enough purchase for the intake pipe, nor would the angle be appropriate. Thanks for the suggestions though everyone. In the ideal world that would be a good solution. I might wrap the pipe in some form of protection, on the most likely areas, to prevent any rubbing damage. Always something isn't there.

JRJG

Rethinking the clocking. It won't be possible unfortunately. The reducer pipe from the turbo to turbo intake is already too short, in an awkward 'trying to be a swan neck' position.

By rotating the turbo further clockwise, to get the clearance on the bottom pipe, it would not leave enough purchase for the intake pipe, nor would the angle be appropriate. Thanks for the suggestions though everyone. In the ideal world that would be a good solution. I might wrap the pipe in some form of protection, on the most likely areas, to prevent any rubbing damage. Always something isn't there.

JRJG

Eh?

The intake is central,so clocking the cold side of the turbo will not make any difference to the inlet!

Eh?

The intake is central,so clocking the cold side of the turbo will not make any difference to the inlet!

... Oh well in that case ...

Can you tell I'm an absolute amateur?

JRJG

So I checked the elbow again this evening and sure enough it has pushed its way against the droplink again.

I will take it off tomorrow, trim it, and refit it with a different clamp. But how much should I cut off?

I am assuming an inch or so to begin with, and try it for size, then cut again if necessary. Any tips for clean cutting silicone pipes? A hacksaw?

JRJG

Ideally you want a brand new Stanley knife blade,and a piece of hard pipe the correct size and cut the silicone with it fitted to the hard pipe.

As long as you have enough straight pipe left to get the clamp on you can cut it as much as you want

Ideally you want a brand new Stanley knife blade,and a piece of hard pipe the correct size and cut the silicone with it fitted to the hard pipe.

As long as you have enough straight pipe left to get the clamp on you can cut it as much as you want

Just finished putting the arch liner back in.

I wrapped plenty of tape around the brand new (!!!) elbow's wound. It hadn't worn through all the way through but had got through the first layer, only done a couple of hundred miles. My ignorance for not checking it sooner.

Your method would of been ideal but my weapon of choice was a hacksaw, made a reasonably clean cut, not that it matters I don't suppose.

I also zip tied the new T Bolt clamp (on the boost pipe end) pulling it away from the droplink via a second loop through a convenient bolt hole in the sump. So that should keep it from coming anywhere close to the droplink and wearing through again.

Thanks for your suggestions

JRJG