Has anyone changed.

Valve seales + valve guides

And piston rings just curious to no or just replace engine thanks

I wouldn't do any of that before a wet & dry compression test and a leak down test.

 

What oil are you running and what consumption are you getting? (L/1000km if you don't mind)

I'm having same issue on my 06 Tfsi

I agree with Brad about not even contemplating changing the rings until you have wet and dry test evidence of a significant improvement in compression in the wet test over the dry.

 

Valve stem seals don't show up in compression test though; the indicators that they need changing are:-

1. Have an engine where valve stem seal wear is an issue.
2. Have puffs of blue smoke appearing when you pick up the throttle off the overrun.

Thanks

The oil is 505.01 from TPS

A have done a DRY compression test and all were fine well with in the numbers of what the Haynes manual says.

Am not to sure on how to do a wet test and if a did what would a be looking for a no it sounds stupid but a just don't no how to go about a WET test.

All so how do a do a leak down test.

The oil consumption is averaging roughly 800ml every 3 days not very good when am a taxi driver.

So at a guess am doing a LITER to 300 miles roughly give or take.

"Wet" compression test

For cylinders =1 to cylinder_count loop

1. Pour a desert spoonful of oil down the plug hole into the cylinder to be tested.
2. Wait 10 minutes.
3. Carry out a compression test the same as for a "dry" test.

end loop ;

 

If compression improves by 20% or more on at least one cylinder then start thinking about having the bores honed and pistons re-ringed.

 

"Leakdown" test.

 

This needs £several hundred of specialist equipment that you won't use again; see a garage.

That is a lot of oil. It seems like edit: the probability is high the bores / rings are going to be an issue. But the wet vs dry compression and leak down tests, ought to give you some evidence before outlaying £££.

Edited 4 October, 20169 yr by TheClient

Does anyone know of were a can get this leaksown test carried out in the north east thanks

Does anyone know of were a can get this leaksown test carried out in the north east thanks

 

Maybe give swift motor engineering or Tyneside autohaus a shout mate.  The latter is a new business and I know the owner through an old friend. Very helpful and mint prices. VAG specialists on both accounts.

Did this happen before or after your red oil light popping on/off incident?

The blue smoke has been there for wile but it's now getting to the point where it's not smoking 1 hamlet it's smoking the box lol.

So am curious on finding out what's the problem or do a just need a new engine thanks

Here's another angle on things...

If the engine braking is good and the engine starts and runs otherwise fine it may be the turbo oil seals are totally knackered.

You need to address the oil burning before you are reported for pollution!

Cheers a did think of that

I'd say turbo seals would be a good suspect.

 

Does the car make a noise a bit like a siren?

No it didn't but a have broke down tonight with the engine sounding like a machine gun when a rev the engine.

So first thing to check is turbo a hope and pray it's not.

If it is this will be the 3rd turbo this year.

Thanks

The oil is 505.01 from TPS

A have done a DRY compression test and all were fine well with in the numbers of what the Haynes manual says.

Am not to sure on how to do a wet test and if a did what would a be looking for a no it sounds stupid but a just don't no how to go about a WET test.

All so how do a do a leak down test.

The oil consumption is averaging roughly 800ml every 3 days not very good when am a taxi driver.

So at a guess am doing a LITER to 300 miles roughly give or take.

Assuming the 505.01 is 5w-30 I'd consider going to a 5w-40.

 

I doubt that will fix your problem though as from reading through the thread, something is worn / broken / fubar.

 

That is a lot of oil. It seems like edit: the probability is high the bores / rings are going to be an issue. But the wet vs dry compression and leak down tests, ought to give you some evidence before outlaying £££.

No, that's about right.  I used to squirt in 50ml - 100ml.  The excess just dribbles past the rings into the sump.  It's no big deal.  When you start up again there's a puff of blue but that soon goes.

By the sounds of things it may be a simpler/cheaper idea just to swap the whole engine.

2 turbos in a year and now machine gun noises...

I'm going out on a limb here and saying it has been an oil filtration issue that has led to turbo seal/bearing wear and now the camshaft lobes are worn to the point it's running like a dog.

How would a no if it is the camshaft lobes any idea on what size the lobes should be.

Does anyone know what size the lobes r when there new to the minimum size to say that part is finished.

No it didn't but a have broke down tonight with the engine sounding like a machine gun when a rev the engine.

So first thing to check is turbo a hope and pray it's not.

If it is this will be the 3rd turbo this year.

I've heard a couple of cases like this where the turbo had shed a blade that had somehow made its way into the combustion chamber and was jamming between the piston and head. This wrote off the piston and head (and possibly the conrod but I didn't find out if it was checked or not).

 

It's unlikely on a VAG due to the design of the turbo - intercooler - manifold path, but letting a competent diesel mechanic hear the engine without driving to them seems indicated.

Assuming the 505.01 is 5w-30 I'd consider going to a 5w-40.

 

I doubt that will fix your problem though as from reading through the thread, something is worn / broken / fubar.

 

No, that's about right.  I used to squirt in 50ml - 100ml.  The excess just dribbles past the rings into the sump.  It's no big deal.  When you start up again there's a puff of blue but that soon goes.

It was the 3.3L / 1,000 miles oil consumption that I was referring to as "a lot". Not the quantity to use in the wet compression. But I didn't quote the thread post, so my fault for the confusion.

 

With all the recent history of oil pressure problems and very high oil consumption (extreme?) and more issues arising as this thread carries on, an engine swap with turbo may be looking a more economic and practical option.

Have you checked round the exhaust? Are there visible signs of oil deposits in and around it?

 

If it was wear inside the engine leading to the burning of oil then it would likely be burnt off before reaching the exhaust whereas a faulty turbo often means you end up with oil reaching the exhaust. Not good for the catalytic converter either.

I don't know if there is actually a set value for camshaft lobe wear.

I suspect a quick visual inspection would show wear, instead of smooth shiny surfaces they may be dull, scored or otherwise unserviceable.

Further disassembly would show corresponding wear on the cam followers/buckets or whatever they're called. I've seen them worn completely through, holed!

However this is just thinking out loud in an attempt to diagnose a sick engine without knowing all the facts.

Even if you replaced the worn camshaft and associated parts you would still be left with an oil consumption issue from what I suspect has been incorrect oil/filter use.

Unless I could see an external oil leak, which is doubtful considering you say it smokes badly I'd cut my losses and replace it.

The damage is done and isn't cost effective to rectify.

Thanks to all replys just had a look around engine no oil leaks or traces of oil anywhere.

Tryed listening for where noise could be coming from VERY hard to pinpoint.

Just out of curiosity a took the breather pipe off the top of the cam cover and found white milky liquid mixed with the oil.

So as some have said looks like a new engine for me.

As said before thanks for all the replys.

GRAEME

Are there any signs of oil in the coolant?

No oil in coolant