Octavia first gear and reverse

[Shacky13]

Anyone suffered gear issues with Octavia tdi .... smooth as anything on a journey ... no noise at all from clutch .....yet occasionally it just won't go into reverse and one time first ... and Sunday I struggled to get it out of gear!! This cars a nightmare!!

[Rab-k]

Oh yes! Had it back at the dealer at about 40k on the clock as I found it could easily slip into reverse instead of 1st - a bit awkward when pulling away at the lights!

 

A change of parts solved the problem for about the next 50k but it is doing the same thing once again...

 

No downward pressure required for it to find reverse instead of 1st, but as its out of warranty I don't intend spending any £ on it now.

 

The spring mechanism that holds the gear stick in place and through the 'gates' is pretty poor IMHO.

[Shacky13]

It sometimes won't go into reverse and one time would not go into first ...it's never gone into reverse by mistake

[jong123]

Time for a DMF change.

[KenONeill]

There are a number of possibilities here. Let's look at some of the cheaper/easier ones first:-

 

A) Clutch isn't disengaging fully.

The most likely causes of this are:-

1. Brake/clutch fluid level is low, so check level. DIY.
2. Clutch slave cylinder needs bleeding; about 15 minutes in an independent garage.
3. Slave is worn. Garage that does (2) will advise here.

Gear linkage needs adjusting. You can do this yourself, or any VAG independent or dealer can do it.

 

C) Engine mounting bushes are worn, and engine is sometimes moving, causing linkage to appear out of alignment.

 

D) Having eliminated (A) to © as causes, I'm afraid that we may well be looking at a worn clutch.

[cheezemonkhai]

Adjust the gear linkage

Change the gearbox oil if it has not been done in the last 50k

Knotchy reverse where you drop the clutch then have to drop pop up and back down isn't that unusual.

[Shacky13]

There are a number of possibilities here. Let's look at some of the cheaper/easier ones first:-

 

A) Clutch isn't disengaging fully.

The most likely causes of this are:-

• Brake/clutch fluid level is low, so check level. DIY.
• Clutch slave cylinder needs bleeding; about 15 minutes in an independent garage.
• Slave is worn. Garage that does (2) will advise here.

Gear linkage needs adjusting. You can do this yourself, or any VAG independent or dealer can do it.

 

C) Engine mounting bushes are worn, and engine is sometimes moving, causing linkage to appear out of alignment.

 

D) Having eliminated (A) to © as causes, I'm afraid that we may well be looking at a worn clutch.

Today coming home from work ....put the clutch in at junction and the car keeps creeping forward unless I apply brake ..... is clutch fluid the same as brake fluid ..i.e...in same bottle under bonnet? ....many thx for your input

[KenONeill]

Today coming home from work ....put the clutch in at junction and the car keeps creeping forward unless I apply brake ..... is clutch fluid the same as brake fluid ..i.e...in same bottle under bonnet? ....many thx for your input

Yes, it's the same filler, and if it's low start by topping it up.

 

It looks very much like I was on the right lines with (A).

[cheezemonkhai]

If you're changing the brake fluid, make sure they bleed the clutch until they seen clean brake fluid too.

[Shacky13]

Yes, it's the same filler, and if it's low start by topping it up.

 

It looks very much like I was on the right lines with (A).

Clutch was perfect today ....fluid level is full...I have had a brake pedal travel issue to (in another thread) where occasionally with foot resting on pedal at a junction ...the pedal gently falls almost to the floor....I'm guessing both issues could be linked to needing a fluid change and bleed?? With regards to people saying DMF...this is silent as far as I can tell ..in neutral,in gear,clutch in or out ....can feel a little vibration through clutch pedal if gently touched while driving but I'm guessing bound to get some vibration when driving ...yes???

Again, thx for your help

[Shacky13]

There are a number of possibilities here. Let's look at some of the cheaper/easier ones first:-

 

A) Clutch isn't disengaging fully.

The most likely causes of this are:-

• Brake/clutch fluid level is low, so check level. DIY.
• Clutch slave cylinder needs bleeding; about 15 minutes in an independent garage.
• Slave is worn. Garage that does (2) will advise here.

Gear linkage needs adjusting. You can do this yourself, or any VAG independent or dealer can do it.

 

C) Engine mounting bushes are worn, and engine is sometimes moving, causing linkage to appear out of alignment.

 

D) Having eliminated (A) to © as causes, I'm afraid that we may well be looking at a worn clutch.

Car is back with the dealer as there is also an idle and misfire problem .... have today been told it is all down to dmf, slave and clutch and that all are going to be replaced

[KenONeill]

Car is back with the dealer as there is also an idle and misfire problem .... have today been told it is all down to dmf, slave and clutch and that all are going to be replaced

It could be; the point of the post you quoted was working through the probable causes systematically from cheap and easy to expensive.

[cheezemonkhai]

You don't get a misfire on the TDI, but you can get the fuel timing wrong, which is not unheard of following a Cambelt change.

Worth noting that the dealer can do a DMF/Clutch kit as one.

When they do it make sure they do:

- DMF

- Clutch

- Get them to change the hydraulic cylinder in the gearbox as well as the one at the peddle.

- Check the connections and pipe/hose between the clutch release and peddle.

- Get them to change the gearbox oil while they're down there (It's cheap)

- Confirm they have used new bolts with the appropriate locking threads (I had some come out on the road, which was quite scary, after one garage did the first of many DMF changes).

[KenONeill]

You don't get a misfire on the TDI, but you can get the fuel timing wrong, which is not unheard of following a Cambelt change.

Worth noting that the dealer can do a DMF/Clutch kit as one.

When they do it make sure they do:

- DMF

- Clutch

- Get them to change the hydraulic cylinder in the gearbox as well as the one at the peddle.

- Check the connections and pipe/hose between the clutch release and peddle.

- Get them to change the gearbox oil while they're down there (It's cheap)

- Confirm they have used new bolts with the appropriate locking threads (I had some come out on the road, which was quite scary, after one garage did the first of many DMF changes).

The OP specifically said that the slave was being changed.

[Shacky13]

You don't get a misfire on the TDI, but you can get the fuel timing wrong, which is not unheard of following a Cambelt change.Worth noting that the dealer can do a DMF/Clutch kit as one.When they do it make sure they do:- DMF- Clutch- Get them to change the hydraulic cylinder in the gearbox as well as the one at the peddle.- Check the connections and pipe/hose between the clutch release and peddle.- Get them to change the gearbox oil while they're down there (It's cheap)- Confirm they have used new bolts with the appropriate locking threads (I had some come out on the road, which was quite scary, after one garage did the first of many DMF changes).

The cars under warranty and 80 miles from my house, they did a cambelt change before I bought the car ...ten miles into owning the car the engine light comes on ....diagnosed as egr valve....replaced and no engine light now...... car runs rough at warm up and even at normal temp if revved to 1100rpm it's like a washing machine full of clothes going around under you ..... garage claimed injector wiring loom ..... replaced and made no difference ...... now they are saying it's down to the dmf that the car is running rough and when replaced ...clutch and slave will also be done

[Shacky13]

The OP specifically said that the slave was being changed.

Yes, they said dmf ... clutch ...and slave being replaced

[Shacky13]

Ok .... So the garage say they have fitted dmf... New clutch and new slave.... They say idle fault is now fixed due to dmf .... Then this morning they are telling me the clutch pedal is on the floor!!! Grrr so they say they replace the master cylinder, breaking two clips and taking three hours!! Does not fix the fault .... So now saying the new slave must be faulty ARRRRGGHHHH and would I like my money back.... NO, I want a working car... I could honestly cry