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Non starting 1.9tdi


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Hi, new to the forum, I've looked through as many threads as I can to try and get an answer but can't seem to find it, so apologies if this has been covered 100 times already!

A brief history to the fault:

Skoda Octavia 1.9tdi 2007

Car wouldn't start

Battery all good

Jump starting didn't help

Then beeping noise with glow plug light flashing

Replaced all 4 glow plugs

Low ish on oil (topped up)

Car started yay! But with red oil light flashing and beeping

Stopped car

Car won't re start

Tried bonnet catch sensor

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated

Richard

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Your car?

 

Owned for how long?......or only just bought it on a whim?

 

Basically asking has the car been running fine before this issue.

 

And when you say 'won't start', does it turn over but not run, or nothing at all?

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A diesel that turns over but won't try to start is usually one of 2 things:-

1) Engine speed on starter not reaching 250rpm, so the EMS refuses to inject fuel. You should be able to hear this.

2) Immobiliser fault.

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Also are you using the same key you know starts it. ie definitely coded / remote fob key.

 

My spare will not start mine (think it turns engine over tho iirc) but is not a fob type. Opens and locks the doors (inserted) only.

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Hi, how well do you know the seller ? Could there be an extra immobilising device fitted, has the car been standing, low charge in battery, or as previously suggested key not programmed or not being recognised

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100% not the key, it worked fine for a week and then years before that.

No extra devices fitted either. It's factory spec. Not tampered at all.

I know my neighbor very well, they only sold the car due to getting a company car and didn't really want to part with it.

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Have you tried a jump start using another cars battery or a bump start, if manual, our diesel vans a work if left for even a weekend often just need a little bit of assistance from a second battery for the initial start, then they can be fine for weeks on end again !!

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The previous owner never had this problem and the battery voltage is at 12.66v. When I try and start the engine it sounds like it is almost about to start.

 

Ignore the voltage, its perfectly possible for a duff battery to show the correct voltage but stick a load on it and its another story. The battery needs to be able to provide a lot of amps to turn a diesel engine, so you need a proper battery tester not a volt meter.

 

If the battery cannot turn the engine at 250rpm its not going to start.

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Ok, that I never knew! I know that the battery is only a few months old but it's a Halfords own one, also thinking that I've been trying to start the car a few times now so will have used more power from the battery.

I don't have access to a battery tester, would a jump start from my Landy be worth a go?

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Ok, that I never knew! I know that the battery is only a few months old but it's a Halfords own one, also thinking that I've been trying to start the car a few times now so will have used more power from the battery.

I don't have access to a battery tester, would a jump start from my Landy be worth a go?

To get the Octy running yes; You'll still have a suspect battery in the Octy though, so get it to a proper garage (local indy is fine) with a battery tester.

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As long as the radio is the original one then there should be no issues with the code as its store in the cars main ECU. When you reconnect the battery the code is sent over canbus to the radio, only if there is a code mismatch will the radio prompt for a code.

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As long as the radio is the original one then there should be no issues with the code as its store in the cars main ECU. When you reconnect the battery the code is sent over canbus to the radio, only if there is a code mismatch will the radio prompt for a code.

Everyday is a school day! Will let you know how I get on.

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, would a jump start from my Landy be worth a go?

I was basing my information on the fact you stated in your first post that "jump starting didn't help".

 

 is it ok to attach the battery charger while still wired into the car?

Yes it is.

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Ok, update, firstly thank you to everyone who has helped,

I jump started the car and got it started

But...

Check engine light is on

Red oil can light is flashing

Glow plug light (yellow) is flashing

I didn't drive anywhere turned the engine off. I don't want to do more damage by driving it.

Any further thoughts?

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Have you spoken to your neighbour about this?

 

I would definitely have a polite word with them, having only had it off of them for a week.

 

Did the car work normally for a week (for you) before this issue?

 

Was it sold as seen? Was it cheap? (I guess an intelligent/nice person would not sell a known faulty car to their neighbour).

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Thank goodness you have a brain and just need marque expertise to go with! :D

 

Check oil level. If this is low, top up, but if it's between the marks suspect an oil pickup or pump problem.

 

Check brake lights. If none of these work, the glow plug light is actually telling you that you need a new, Skoda OEM brake light switch.

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What spec oil did you top up with? and when was it last serviced? What oil was used then?

 

Have you checked for oil leaks?

Edited by Tilt
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............so you need a proper battery tester not a volt meter.

 

Not strictly true, if you have the voltmeter connected to the battery terminals, then whilst attempting to start(this is putting the battery under load) observing the meter reading........voltage at the battery terminals shouldn't drop below 9.0 volts.  If it does drop below 9 then there is a high internal resistance in the battery.......from my high school days I can confirm that this is the ONLY time when Ohms Law and the volts/amps/resistance calculation actually works in real life!! :D 

It's an easy way to confirm battery condition, whilst a modern battery tester will give you a rating in amps measured in relation to what the battery is rated at (see the sticker on battery for CCA/EN/DIN rating), it's basically checking the resistance of the battery......It is NOT putting it(the battery) under load, trying to crank the engine is though.

 

 

 

Having difficulty deciding if the OP's description of fault is that the engine is turning too slow....."jump starting didn't help".......that's not to say he's got a starter issue or high resistance elsewhere in the starter circuit?

Started with a bump so maybe a <250rpm issue??

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