Engine gurus: advice please!

 

I am a long time member who mainly lives in the MkI Fabia section. I however have a friend with a Polo 6R 2011 GTI 1.4 Twincharger (CTHE engine code I think?) who is having alsorts of problems!

 

She recently broke down and it was deemed the following work needed doing, at the time I was not aware what she was advised to have done: New valves, 2 new injectors, new timing chain, pump, etc. Lots of money spent. 24 hours on it was lumpy at tickover which I scanned and showed an error code suggesting timing chain is incorrectly done (P0011 "A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance Bank 1). I spoke to the Mechanic and he sounded reasonable and confirmed he had used a gauge to find top-dead-centre etc. He thought it may be sticky variators as they were quite carbonated when they took the rocker cover off. He Has (for-free) re-checked timing using a gauge in cylinder 4, and flushed the engine through with oil cleaner and an oil change, proposing that it is just gunk in the variator. 

 

Although i know something about engines I know nothing about valve timing variators. I also know the 1.4 is a fault prone engine and hers drinks oil like all the others...

 

He is now quoting to have the variator replaced claiming this is most likely source as they are probably "weak". 

 

Does this sound reasonable? Having just spent the best part of £3k she is reluctant to have to spend more!

 

Thanks in advance. 

 

Oli

It is a CAVE engine if a 2011.

What has £3,000 been spent on and is this a VW Workshop or a VW Specialist?

A new base engine with head could have been bought for £3,000 and then labour needed to change the engine.

 

PS

They do not all drink oil, only the faulty one, and that sounds very much like a faulty one.

 

EDIT,Maybe James@RRGRochdale will see the post and be able to help or PM him.

Edited 1 March, 20179 yr by Awayoffski

Thank you for the reply.

 

Work done shown in the pictures! 

 

Basically top-engine rebuild. Garage was chosen as the RAC recovered her and that was where they recommended to go...

109,256 miles.  She bought a rough one there.

 I hope it was a bargain price.  

 

Some list and 5 litres of oil at £4.99 a litre.  Well there is the cheap bit.

IF THAT IS SEMI SYNTHETIC THAT NEEDS REMOVED AND FULL SYNTHETIC PUT IN.

 

Spark plugs not on invoice but it says injectors 1&2 replaced & sparkplugs

EDIT, i see the plugs now £12 each.

Edited 1 March, 20179 yr by Awayoffski

55 minutes ago, Awayoffski said:

109,256 miles.  She bought a rough one there.

 I hope it was a bargain price.  

 

Some list and 5 litres of oil at £4.99 a litre.  Well there is the cheap bit.

IF THAT IS SEMI SYNTHETIC THAT NEEDS REMOVED AND FULL SYNTHETIC PUT IN.

 

Spark plugs not on invoice but it says injectors 1&2 replaced & sparkplugs

EDIT, i see the plugs now £12 each.

 

Good point about the oil - will make sure I ask the garage. I wasn't aware she was buying it so who knows what the full history is...

Being an Oil user it would be best to get 5w 40 FS (VW 502 00)  But Semi Synthetic is no use.

DENSO plugs would have been best, if NGK are in that is not so good.

 

It should have the latest available Software.

(You should check if it ever got Breather Pipe / Valve update and Software done in the 6 years.) 

I doubt new Oil Spray Jets are worth having done if that was the real miles and that engine never had a rebuild with new Pistons / Rings.

 

So good Spark Plugs, Air Filter, correct oil 5w 40 Full Synthetic not 5w30 Full Synthetic Long Life.

Super Unleaded 97 as a min, and 99 ron if she can get it.  Latest Software Update.

Then fingers crossed.

http://revotechnik.com/support/technical/14tsi-twincharger-engine-issues 

TBH I've had problems with mine when it was rough idling after an engine change and I scanned the code with my cheap obd scanner and it said the exact same , turned out it was the MAF sensor to get to the real root of the problem I would get it scanned with VCDS it's so much more precise than those obd scanners you get unless the garage has VCDS (vagcom) and has already scanned it ? 

Would also get a compression test done personally (also you can get rough idling from leaking injectors check uprated injectors where used )  

Edited 2 March, 20179 yr by thomasaspin

On 01/03/2017 at 20:55, Awayoffski said:

Being an Oil user it would be best to get 5w 40 FS (VW 502 00)  But Semi Synthetic is no use.

DENSO plugs would have been best, if NGK are in that is not so good.

 

It should have the latest available Software.

(You should check if it ever got Breather Pipe / Valve update and Software done in the 6 years.) 

I doubt new Oil Spray Jets are worth having done if that was the real miles and that engine never had a rebuild with new Pistons / Rings.

 

So good Spark Plugs, Air Filter, correct oil 5w 40 Full Synthetic not 5w30 Full Synthetic Long Life.

Super Unleaded 97 as a min, and 99 ron if she can get it.  Latest Software Update.

Then fingers crossed.

http://revotechnik.com/support/technical/14tsi-twincharger-engine-issues 

 

Who knows if it has had any of these things, but I shall do my best. I suspect the garage used cheaper components, just because they were not a VAG specialist...

 

20 hours ago, thomasaspin said:

TBH I've had problems with mine when it was rough idling after an engine change and I scanned the code with my cheap obd scanner and it said the exact same , turned out it was the MAF sensor to get to the real root of the problem I would get it scanned with VCDS it's so much more precise than those obd scanners you get unless the garage has VCDS (vagcom) and has already scanned it ? 

 

MAF is a good shout. It's going to be a case of probably blind changing parts to find the cause. I guess what I'm trying to establish is what are the actual symptoms of valve variatior faults, or do they just all present the same way...

 

20 hours ago, thomasaspin said:

Would also get a compression test done personally (also you can get rough idling from leaking injectors check uprated injectors where used )  

 

I'd hope that wasn't the case after a top-engine rebuild, but hey, may be worth a go!

 

 

Thank you all for your help, any more input greatly appreciated.