Hi all, I've got a 2006 Fabia Vrs engine code BLT. I've had the car just shy of 2 months and it's been mint while I've had it until now. 

 

Basically what happens is I can be driving along fine but as soon as I boost or hard accelerate and put my clutch in to slow down for some reason my revs will drop so low my engine will stall. If I drive steady with no hard acceleration it's fine. It drives completely fine all the time, puts power down well, no judders or hesitation when driving (apart from an occasional slight lumpy idle now and then). When it stalls I hardly notice it's died and usually just bump it straight away and carry on driving.

 

I've had it on a Skoda machine and ran a guided fault find and the only faults in the system is:-

Air con - control module faulty (static) 

central electrics - drive battery voltage (signal too low/intermittent) 

i wouldn't of thought any of these faults would be causing the issue I've got. 

 

It literally just cuts out after hard boost when  I put my clutch in to slow down for a round about / traffic lights. It's as if it doesn't hit the idle limit and just falls straight to zero.

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated. 

Thanks

-Lee

 

(I've checked running battery voltage and it's above 14v so it's getting charge from alternator, checked most visible wires for any broken ones and all looks to be ok) 

 

Does the battery light come on with ignition? Can't see it being relevant, but always a good one to check.

Might be worth grabbing A.N. other anti-shudder valve from a scrapyard to try. Sounds almost like that's closing off when it shouldn't?

It's had EGR delete, de cat and remap. Work was done years before I purchased the car.

 

Yeah it's as if something isn't recognising the throttle has been let off and it's not catching it at idle revs causing it to stall. It's got to be something related to boost because the fault only happenes when I put my foot down and clutch in afterwards. Engine cuts out and battery light comes on. No other warning lights. 

 

EDIT: Also noticed on start up this evening it was abit juddery for the first 10 seconds but as soon as I started driving it was fine. It can occasionally be slightly juddery on tick over 

Edited 15 March, 20179 yr by Horsley6

I think tomorrow after work I'm going to remove and clean the throttle body in case that's sticking and also remove and have a look at the fuel filter. Other than that I'm all out of ideas 

I know I seem to be spamming my own post but I think I've fixed the problem, and it could possibly help someone else. 

 

Ive found the DF wire in front of the gearbox (little 2 pin connector) had half snapped, so I've cut the wire and replaced with a longer wire. Apparently this is a very common fault with the mk1 Fabia and the loom isn't long enough. 

 

If the fault comes back I've read that it could possibly be maf or map sensor. 

 

Hope me this helps 

 

Please keep us updated. Usually if the DFM wire is busted, the ASR warning light comes on after 10 minutes of driving, and a specific fault comes up on VCDS scans "load signal implausible" or words to that effect.

 

I'm actually liking your MAP sensor theory a lot. If that were slow in responding to pressure changes, it might explain inability to 'catch' a rapid transition from high pressure to much lower, and so not allowing the ECU to adjust everything it needs to.

 

 

Edited 16 March, 20179 yr by Wino

On 15/03/2017 at 21:29, Wino said:

Does the battery light come on with ignition? Can't see it being relevant, but always a good one to check.

I have the same problem as this with my 2006 skoda fabia vrs, it keeps stalling when I drop down a gear. After reading this I checked and the battery light wont show at all with the ignition on. It is also sometimes struggling to start with out using the accelerator. Any ideas what this could be?

The blue wire that provides initial field coil energy to the alternator is broken. The place where at least 99 out of 100 of these breaks is at a bracket on the front of the gearbox where it, and another wire that may also be broken, go through a 2-pin plug/socket connection.

Edited 24 July, 20205 yr by Wino

Thank you, would that also explain why it stalls or is this just the battery light?  

Probably just the battery light, but depending on usage, that wire being broken might mean that the alternator isn't working for at least some of the time when it should be, leading to low battery charge problems and all sorts of faults.

 

Fix the known fault, then see if there are any left.

Edited 24 July, 20205 yr by Wino

Thank you for your help. I found and repaired the broken wire, which has fixed the battery light issue, and I'm unsure yet whether its stopped stalling. However it still sometimes struggles to start...