Mpi 8v new owner - jobs to do?

[GreenMachineSDI]

I've just bought my mother in law's mk1 Fabia 1.4 MPI 8v, 86,000 miles, she's owned for 10 years. Mainly because I know it's been looked after and driven nicely...and I like them in general...and it was cheap (not that it's worth much anyway). The service has been done professionally every year at the same time as MOT. Neat and tidy bodywork too.

This forum has been a great help so far. The car runs pretty fine, but I want to make sure it stays that way, with some help from you knowledgeable lot. 

So far I've ;

- Changed the V belt (non air con, nice and easy). It was squealing a bit and rubber was cracked.

- Had a look at the visible part of the head gasket and been pleased to find it's the better one that's not prone to failure (begins with 't'?)

- learned the engine is chain driven, not a belt - didn't realise they were! There's no rattle anyway, probably thanks to the regular oil changes and gentle driving

- learned the lumpy idle is normal for these too! It's quite harsh though! 

- I've yet to work out what my mpg is but I'm sure it won't be much apparently, oh well. It will only do about 4k a year.

- I'm going to ditch the engine cover/oil cap combo and put a Felicia cap on as I think the cabin smells a bit fumey, maybe that will help?

- I also want to check under the windscreen lower plastic cover for leaves and dirt, then I know it's been done

 

What else should I treat the car to? It's had an oil service and I've done pollen filter and air filter for good measure. I've read about cleaning throttle bodies etc can help running. Or am I better to leave things alone until it starts misbehaving? I only want to attempt nice and simple diy jobs in case I break an otherwise good engine! I think the rocker cover is leaking a bit. Is that as easy to do as it looks to be?

Anyway, considering some of the slating of the 68hp mpi, it feels sprightly enough in town and seems fine cruising on A/B roads! The low revs torque is good! Or maybe I'm getting old! 

 

 

 

 

Edited 30 March, 2017 by GreenMachineSDI

[sepulchrave]

Spark plugs.

 

The drivetrain is generally reliable if a little agricultural, work will more likely be needed on the running gear; brakes, console bushes, drop links and springs all fail with age.

 

You'll be back if you're keeping the car.

[GreenMachineSDI]

Ha ha! I think the suspension bushes and springs have been done recently so I've dodged a bullet there. But yes, I can imagine the rest of the car will give up the ghost before the engine...

[Breezy_Pete]

Check that the battery light comes on with the ignition, inspect the strip fuses in the battery box fuseholder for corrosion/cracks.

Does it warm up reasonably fast to indicated 90C and stay there?

How's the clarity of the coolant, may be worth a change if murky.

Brake fluid last changed when?

 

Throttle body worth a look, but no EGR so shouldn't get too mucky really.

 

 

[GreenMachineSDI]

Thanks for tips. The engine heats up quickly as stays at 90c, thankfully. Coolant looks ok. Might get brake fluid changed, yes. Will check battery light tomorrow. If throttle body is disturbed does it need resetting or something? Excuse my ignorance. 

[Breezy_Pete]

If you unplug it as part of removal/checking/cleaning, don't switch on the ignition while it's unplugged.

Unless there's loaaads of muck in there, the ECU shouldn't need to be readapted to it.

 

[GreenMachineSDI]

Gotcha. Thanks.

Any recommendations for spark plug brand/type for this particular engine? 

[sepulchrave]

25 minutes ago, GreenMachineSDI said:

Gotcha. Thanks.

Any recommendations for spark plug brand/type for this particular engine? 

 

Doesn't matter, get whatever's cheapest.

[GreenMachineSDI]

Thanks :-)

[TMB]

The revised head gasket has the letters TEMAC in red on the front right-hand corner.

 

Lumpy idle is normal for the 1.4,8v MPI but shouldn't be harsh. Make sure the battery is OK because a poor one puts strain on the alternator which makes the idle worse. Also worth removing and cleaning the throttle body with a carb cleaner spray and checking vacuum pipes and breather hoses for damage.

 

Definitely worth ditiching the engine cover and running the Felicia oil cap. There is supposed to be a Felicia oil cap clipped under the engine cover meant for temporary use whilst the cover is removed but sometimes it's missing. You might be lucky though.

 

The rocker cover gasket is a doddle to replace. They are rubber and go brittle with age.

 

If you are going to remove the scuttle cover it's best to buy three new fir tree clips as they tend to break on removal. Part number N90911301

 

And just for info - the 8v engine was modified by VW to have hydraulic valve lifters, so no need to adjust valve clearances. Preliminary adjustment should only be necessary after overhaul of valvetrain.

 

Edited 31 March, 2017 by TMB

[GreenMachineSDI]

Yes, the spare oil cap is missing :-/

Ordered new cap, and scuttle cover clips.

Yes, temac gasket, that's the one, I can just make out the red letters on mine...Woohoo! Already love this car. I like old school stuff...Drove a mk1 golf diesel for years, it was awesome. Makes the Skoda seem smooth as silk in comparison! The Classic spec with no extra electrics to go wrong is right up my street too. The boot release lever is a pain though. Having to go to driver's door to do it, if you use the boot a lot it gets tiresome. 

I think rocker cover gasket is my next job then. Thanks for the info! 

[TMB]

Doesn't your boot open from the finger switch on the lid? Mine has remote release and finger switch.

[GreenMachineSDI]

It's a poverty spec Classic without central locking, when boot lid shuts it locks with no way of opening other than driver's sill release lever. I must've had my eyes shut last time engine cover was off, I've checked again and spare oil cap is underneath...doh! Will try Felicia cap anyway, when it arrives, and see which I prefer. 

[GreenMachineSDI]

Does anyone know if you can get the two top rubber round bungs under the nuts on rocker cover from anywhere? One of mine is wet and they looked cracked. Found gasket, but not round bungs. 

[TMB]

19 minutes ago, GreenMachineSDI said:

Does anyone know if you can get the two top rubber round bungs under the nuts on rocker cover from anywhere? One of mine is wet and they looked cracked. Found gasket, but not round bungs. 

 

Yes give me a few mins and I'll get the part number.

[TMB]

OK the part number is 047103532

 

Think you'd have to get them from Skoda.

[GreenMachineSDI]

Great stuff, thanks very much!

[GreenMachineSDI]

£1.10 each from Skoda so gonna renew them at same time as gasket. Thanks again

[TMB]

No probs

[wiredsoftware]

The oil cap will get rid of the smell, fixed the smell for me anyway. 

 

The idle is "rough" on these, but assuming everything is in order, that just means it should wander up and down about 50 RPM in each direction, and do so relatively smoothly. If it's jumping harshly, something's not 100%. 

[GreenMachineSDI]

Thanks, yes, I'm hoping the smell disappears, yet to find out. Managed to order the wrong cap from Evilbay...listing said Felicia but it's the twist on to lock type I already had on the engine cover! Running with the spare from under the cover for now. Probably be fine for good? Seems secure enough (needs a slight tug to get it off). In my research I saw someone using a Nutella lid on their Felicia as a perfect fit so I guess anything will do! 

 

My idle is bad enough that you can feel the car shaking on and off under your bum as you sit there! I can live with it if it's normal, car runs fine otherwise. Compared to a mk1 golf diesel dashboard rattle at idle it's perfectly bearable! My battery light comes on at start up and goes out quickly, so don't think I have any battery/alt probs. 

 

 

[TMB]

1 hour ago, GreenMachineSDI said:

Managed to order the wrong cap from Evilbay...listing said Felicia but it's the twist on to lock type I already had on the engine cover! Running with the spare from under the cover for now. Probably be fine for good?

 

 

 

The one from under the engine cover is exactly the same as the Felicia one so no problem at all using it permanently. Separate cap seals are available too if you ever need one. Part number 047103487

 

Regarding the idle - regardless of whether the battery light goes out you can still have a weak battery. It really does add to the bad idle because the engine has to overcome the extra resistance on the alternator pulley. Mine was terrible until I fitted a new battery. One way to tell is if the headlights go excessively dim when you turn the steering wheel with headlamps on as the PAS pump is electric. Some dimming is normal but should only be slight. Also, have you checked the small vacuum hose which goes to the rocker cover for damage? Also the larger breather hose?

 

 

Edited 1 April, 2017 by TMB

[GreenMachineSDI]

Thanks for the advice, will check those when I get chance. Had a good 35 mile run in it on Sunday and ran sweet as a nut. Quite a nice little cruiser on the A roads round here. Keeps up with everyone else no probs. It's rural roads with villages every minute or so to be honest any more power is just a waste cos you can't ever give it the beans anyway! 

[TMB]

Yes they are torquey little engines. Mine goes great on the motorway and is very quiet. Bit slow sometimes but you get used to it.

[GreenMachineSDI]

We briefly had a 2001 Fabia SDI (hence my username). That felt a fair bit slower bless it.