Hi All, 

 

I've noticed a significant vibration when sat in the car when in idle in the last few days which started suddenly.  When the car is at speed it is less noticeable but very noticeable and feelable through the steering wheel and gear stick and in particular when the doors are shut. 

 

Its a 55 plate and its done 123k and had the clutch changed at 109 and the Campbell in 2014 at 77k.

Any idea what it could be? 

Any help greatly appreciated

 

Ben

Which engine?

 

Presuming 1.9pd at a guess - pd injector wiring loom - prone to failure as sat in oil but an easy fix

Edited 2 April, 20179 yr by bigjohn

Hi Big John, 

 

Its the 130bhp 1.9pd

 

Thanks for the info, do you have any links where I could find out more?

 

Not sure if related but the car did occasionally have an issue going into first at a traffic jam so had to roll back a week or two before a few times to get in gear. 

 

Could the Dmf be a possible cause also? 

 

I am not sure at what mileage they start to go?  When the clutch was replaced by the previous owner there was no mention of this being changed. 

 

Ben

Hi All, 

 

I've been doing some more research on this and I think it's a possibility that the alternator clutch idle pulley could be the source of the vibrations at idle? Apparently they are good for 60 to 80k and I have a car with 123k.

 

I don't think the auxiliary belts have ever been changed as they look old. 

 

Does anybody think this could be the cause or is it more likely to be the pd injector wiring loom as advised by Big John? 

 

If the belts any advise on anything else to change at the same time? 

 

I am also concerned the timing belt may need doing soon as it has been 2 years and 50k but according to the history the timing belt was changes and the tensioner pulley but not the tensioner so could this be an issue and I assume that getting this changed the next time I do the timing belt would make sense?

 

All advise greatfully received as always. 

 

Ben

My money is on the DMF. The alternator pulley thing can make a noise and rattle when they fail but I wouldn't say you would feel it inside the cabin.

 

Having owned an AWX engine with a failed DMF I know how horrendous the vibrations can get.

beside pulley or DMF...

inner CV joint?

Thanks all, 

 

@SuperbTWM do you have any idea how long it would last with a deteriorating Dmf? 

 

Is it safe to drive? 

 

Did you convert to a SMS or would you advise doing this?

 

Ben

Sorry that should be SMF. 

2 hours ago, Ben12345 said:

Thanks all, 

 

@SuperbTWM do you have any idea how long it would last with a deteriorating Dmf? 

 

Is it safe to drive? 

 

Did you convert to a SMS or would you advise doing this?

 

Ben

 

It could last forever like this or it could give was in the next 5 miles and destroy the gearbox. Nobody can say for sure but they don't often give way so your probably not in any immediate danger.

 

Seen as its a gearbox off job to change I would make sure you get a proper diagnosis first.

 

I wouldn't get a SMF conversion on that engine. I was going to go down the same route as I have done it before but because the engine is longitudinal apparently you can still get some vibration so was advised against it and just fitted another DMF.

Thanks for the advise Superb tow,  appreciate it

On 4/3/2017 at 01:44, Ben12345 said:

 

 

 

Not sure if related but the car did occasionally have an issue going into first at a traffic jam so had to roll back a week or two before a few times to get in gear. 

 

Could the Dmf be a possible cause also? 

 

I am not sure at what mileage they start to go?  When the clutch was replaced by the previous owner there was no mention of this being changed. 

 

 

 

With the other "clutch" symptoms then I'd agree with other posts - DMF probably on it's way. My old 2003 Superb I (owned by a friend now) is still going strong on it's original clutch/DMF at 190k miles but with DMFs it does seem a bit of a lottery. Mine was only a 100pd as well so less torque .  I'd get it done ASAP as if it fails it'll do a lot of damage -

 

If you look inside a DMF you sometimes wonder how they last as long as they do!

 

On ‎03‎/‎04‎/‎2017 at 21:20, Ben12345 said:

Hi All, 

 

I've been doing some more research on this and I think it's a possibility that the alternator clutch idle pulley could be the source of the vibrations at idle? Apparently they are good for 60 to 80k and I have a car with 123k.

 

I don't think the auxiliary belts have ever been changed as they look old. 

 

Does anybody think this could be the cause or is it more likely to be the pd injector wiring loom as advised by Big John? 

 

If the belts any advise on anything else to change at the same time? 

 

I am also concerned the timing belt may need doing soon as it has been 2 years and 50k but according to the history the timing belt was changes and the tensioner pulley but not the tensioner so could this be an issue and I assume that getting this changed the next time I do the timing belt would make sense?

 

All advise greatfully received as always. 

 

Ben

 

If the alternator pulley is not free wheeling or there is another problem with the drive belts, with the engine (And not wearing a tie) check the drive belt pulley tensioner for large movements. If so there is a problem associated with the drive belts and accessories.

Thanks All,

 

Appreciate your help with this

 

I think from what the garage have said they think it is the DMF.

 

I posted in another topic what was said but will repeat below with questions I had:

 

Hi All,

The car is:

05 Skoda Superb Elegance with 130bhp AWX PD Engine
124k
one clutch change (3 piece clutch kit) at 109k in April 2016
one Timing Belt and Timing Belt Pulley change (No Tensioner change) at 77k in Sept 2014 

I have today taken the car in to the garage.

They hooked up an ecu scanner to see if there were any codes, which there were not. The mechanic then took the car for a drive a diagnosed the DMF as being on its way out.

The mechanic advised that although the clutch was changed 15k and one year ago this would also have to be replaced as it will be damaged by the DMF being on its way out. 

The garage have advised that they cant get me in for 2 weeks but that the car should be ok to drive for that time as long as it is not driven hard.

So, to my questions 

1, As the cars MOT is due before the car is likely to get into the garage, is it likely to fail the MOT on the DMF?

2, Is it worth going to a SMF? I have seen kits on ebay going from £170 (DMR) to £440 (Borg and Beck)? Why such a difference in price is Borg and Beck really that much better?

3, If a DMF any particular make I should go for? Avoid?

4, If as suggested by garage a DMF and Clutch is required are there any other parts in the area that should also be replaced?

5, As Auxiliary belts have never been changed I want to get these done too. Can anyone list any parts I have missed?

Air Con Belt Tensioner & Mounting
Aircon belt,
Alternator belt tensioner damper (Is this an alternator clutch idle pulley?) 
Alternator Belt
Drive Belt Tensioner

6, If I decide to get the timing belt done are these all the parts that need to be replaced?

Timing Belt
Water Pump (Not OE Spec due to plastic fins - metal fins required) Any particular make recommended?
Tensioner (Wasnt change last time and has never been changed)
Idle Pulley

Is there a particular make that is recommended?

Will it be ok to leave the timing belt for a few more months (Last changed 2 years 6 months and circa 50k ago but tensioner not changed)

Appreciate any answers to these questions and advise you can provide,

Thanks in advance,

Ben