Hiya All,

 

I have just purchased at a decent price a DAS 6 Pro polisher and have been searching the net heavily for the right products to use.

 

I am torn between using something like a Chemical Guys V30 Series  ww.chemicalguysuk.com/product_p/vsam.htm but this would be a 3 step process plus as a completely novice I have some caution of using a Compound and moving on to a polish.

 

My eye has been caught by Scholl S20 Black as this is a complete 1 step compound and polisher that has been rated highly and is allows a beginner to get great results without spending a huge amount on products. Yes you have to work the product a little longer than if using a standalone compound then a polish but as you are only doing the job once it would be possible to get the whole car done in a car.

 

http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/car-polish-compounds/scholl-s20-black-1-step-compound/prod_1548.html

 

I also found this video useful

 

I don't have a garage or know anyone with a facility I can pull my car into or else I would go for a complete 3 or 4 step process.

 

Pads I am looking at using either Chemical Guys  (Orange and and a White) or Lake County (Orange and White)

 

However I have also read that Microfiber Cut followed by a polishing pad produces great results on Audi's and VW's, has anyone used MF instead of traditional Foam?

 

Many Thanks in advance. 

 

 

Edited 29 April, 20179 yr by Zenbasses

1 hour ago, Zenbasses said:

Hiya All,

 

I have just purchased at a decent price a DAS 6 Pro polisher and have been searching the net heavily for the right products to use.

 

I am torn between using something like a Chemical Guys V30 Series  ww.chemicalguysuk.com/product_p/vsam.htm but this would be a 3 step process plus as a completely novice I have some caution of using a Compound and moving on to a polish.

 

My eye has been caught by Scholl S20 Black as this is a complete 1 step compound and polisher that has been rated highly and is allows a beginner to get great results without spending a huge amount on products. Yes you have to work the product a little longer than if using a standalone compound then a polish but as you are only doing the job once it would be possible to get the whole car done in a car.

 

http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/car-polish-compounds/scholl-s20-black-1-step-compound/prod_1548.html

 

I also found this video useful

 

I don't have a garage or know anyone with a facility I can pull my car into or else I would go for a complete 3 or 4 step process.

 

Pads I am looking at using either Chemical Guys  (Orange and and a White) or Lake County (Orange and White)

 

However I have also read that Microfiber Cut followed by a polishing pad produces great results on Audi's and VW's, has anyone used MF instead of traditional Foam?

 

Many Thanks in advance. 

 

 

 

Hi

 

Many congrats on the new purchase. I think most, if not all, find this area of detailing a bit of a mine field when starting out, so you're not alone.

 

You rightly show a degree of caution re using compounds but this should also be extended to the pads too.

 

I would suggest using foam pads to start with and leave the MF pads alone until you gain more understanding and develop you knowledge.

 

You rightly mention product cost and you don't need a vast array of pads or polishes for a great finish. CYC are also great suppliers and by using their discount code DW05 you get 5% off.

 

I tried S20 but I'm not a huge fan and it's expensive. I know others who rate it and these conflicting opinions will drive you into confusion as a beginner.

 

As I write this post I'm assuming you're up to speed with the full decontamination process to prep your bodywork prior to machine polishing. The final result can be affected or made harder by an insufficient decon process.

 

I would recommend you machine polish under cover as airborne contaminants could cause you major problems if you end up getting these on your pads!

 

in terms of products per se, your choice of Lake Country or CG Hex are both good. Personally, I prefer the LC pads. 

 

In in terms of polishes of compounds, have a look at Sonax, particularly 04-06 as a one stepper, or the Koch Chemie range. 

 

As with any machine polishing, your objective is to obtain the desired results with the least aggressive pad and polish combo. So use a finer cut polish with a softer pad then build it up.

 

Any questions let me know and I'm sure the wealth of knowledge of other folks on here will filter through too.

 

All the best

 

David.

 

p.s. Try experimenting on a panel from the scrappers (£20) to work on technique and understanding prior to machining your car. 

Hiya

 

Some really solid advice.

 

Incidentally moving to ur last bit, a guy a few door down just replaced the boot on his Fiesta as he smashed the back window in a DIY accident and found it cheaper to replace from Doncaster MotorSpares (my recommendation) then have the glass replaced.  Its in Panther black as well so will be the true test of technique, so I will be a very cheeky boy and ask if I can have it to practice on.. 

 

In terms of body prep 

 

Stage 1 - Full wash with AutoGlym Car Shampoo as it contains no wax or silicone

Stage 2 - Use AutoGlym Tar removal for the bottom of the doors and bumpers as I assume the next step will not get rid of this

Stage 3 - Complete Clay-ing using detailing spray

Stage 4 - Use an IPA to remove the wax and stuff (Need to do more research on this one).. Not sure why just using a mild detergent + plush microfiber cloth wouldnt do the job as I doubt it would eat away at the clear coat on a modern car but would remove any polish, wax etc etc. 

 

In terms of product, well it is said that you use the right products for the outcome you wish, now my Superb Elegance is finished in Brunello Rosso and I try my best to look after it

 

 

 

But it is full of swirls and scratches which I'd like to remove, unfortunately there are some below clear coat scratches which I know I'll never be able to remove... some are around the bonnet edge in the center near the badge sits these are most likely caused by people rubbing up against the car when at work (poor carpark layout), stones chips or when I occasionally can't be bothered and use a hand car wash who use those awful Silicone Squeegees. The others are down the drivers side and passenger side doors , low down, where I had to basically hit a hedge to avoid a buffoon driver on a B Road.. that was a proper 'WINCE' moment....

 

I'll have a read up on the Sonax but ideally I'd like to cut and finish with a good quality 1 steps compound/polish and then refine using something like Autoglym Super Resin as it contains fillers that will help mask the worst of the sub clear coat scratches..thought I maybe wrong on this.

 

I would like a recommendation of which pad to use, if using a 1 step product I would probably use a Chemical Guys Green pad and then finish with a white.. (or the Lake Country equivalent).

 

At least this way I can expose the deep scratches for what they are, and then decided if I need to get out a proper chip/scratch repairer to sort them out....I have used one previously for my partners Ford Focus, the rear bumper got badly scratches and dented when she was rear-ended and you really cannot tell.

 

Many Thanks

 

Ben

 

 

 

   

Edited 29 April, 20179 yr by Zenbasses

18 hours ago, Zenbasses said:

Hiya All,

 

I have just purchased at a decent price a DAS 6 Pro polisher and have been searching the net heavily for the right products to use.

 

I am torn between using something like a Chemical Guys V30 Series  ww.chemicalguysuk.com/product_p/vsam.htm but this would be a 3 step process plus as a completely novice I have some caution of using a Compound and moving on to a polish.

 

My eye has been caught by Scholl S20 Black as this is a complete 1 step compound and polisher that has been rated highly and is allows a beginner to get great results without spending a huge amount on products. Yes you have to work the product a little longer than if using a standalone compound then a polish but as you are only doing the job once it would be possible to get the whole car done in a car.

 

http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/car-polish-compounds/scholl-s20-black-1-step-compound/prod_1548.html

 

I also found this video useful

 

I don't have a garage or know anyone with a facility I can pull my car into or else I would go for a complete 3 or 4 step process.

 

Pads I am looking at using either Chemical Guys  (Orange and and a White) or Lake County (Orange and White)

 

However I have also read that Microfiber Cut followed by a polishing pad produces great results on Audi's and VW's, has anyone used MF instead of traditional Foam?

 

Many Thanks in advance. 

 

 

Scholl do there own pads i used a blue with the S20 on a black vauxhall and gave good results. I think the 2 step method is best i used Rupes Da and green pad and sonax perfrect finish white pad

on a black Vrs i owned and the car just popped. So many colour metalics was unbelievable, also i was out side do not own a garage. Just clean pads after every panal and never do it in sun or wind.

Take your time its not a race, not to much pressure and speed 4 0r 4.5 should be surfice. 

22 hours ago, Zenbasses said:

Hiya

 

Some really solid advice.

 

Incidentally moving to ur last bit, a guy a few door down just replaced the boot on his Fiesta as he smashed the back window in a DIY accident and found it cheaper to replace from Doncaster MotorSpares (my recommendation) then have the glass replaced.  Its in Panther black as well so will be the true test of technique, so I will be a very cheeky boy and ask if I can have it to practice on.. 

 

In terms of body prep 

 

Stage 1 - Full wash with AutoGlym Car Shampoo as it contains no wax or silicone

Stage 2 - Use AutoGlym Tar removal for the bottom of the doors and bumpers as I assume the next step will not get rid of this

Stage 3 - Complete Clay-ing using detailing spray

Stage 4 - Use an IPA to remove the wax and stuff (Need to do more research on this one).. Not sure why just using a mild detergent + plush microfiber cloth wouldnt do the job as I doubt it would eat away at the clear coat on a modern car but would remove any polish, wax etc etc. 

 

In terms of product, well it is said that you use the right products for the outcome you wish, now my Superb Elegance is finished in Brunello Rosso and I try my best to look after it

 

 

 

But it is full of swirls and scratches which I'd like to remove, unfortunately there are some below clear coat scratches which I know I'll never be able to remove... some are around the bonnet edge in the center near the badge sits these are most likely caused by people rubbing up against the car when at work (poor carpark layout), stones chips or when I occasionally can't be bothered and use a hand car wash who use those awful Silicone Squeegees. The others are down the drivers side and passenger side doors , low down, where I had to basically hit a hedge to avoid a buffoon driver on a B Road.. that was a proper 'WINCE' moment....

 

I'll have a read up on the Sonax but ideally I'd like to cut and finish with a good quality 1 steps compound/polish and then refine using something like Autoglym Super Resin as it contains fillers that will help mask the worst of the sub clear coat scratches..thought I maybe wrong on this.

 

I would like a recommendation of which pad to use, if using a 1 step product I would probably use a Chemical Guys Green pad and then finish with a white.. (or the Lake Country equivalent).

 

At least this way I can expose the deep scratches for what they are, and then decided if I need to get out a proper chip/scratch repairer to sort them out....I have used one previously for my partners Ford Focus, the rear bumper got badly scratches and dented when she was rear-ended and you really cannot tell.

 

Many Thanks

 

Ben

 

 

 

   

 

Your car looks in great condition from the photos but I know where you're coming from re the paint correction.

 

During your decon phase you could do with application of a fallout remover too, prior to the wash n final rinse.

 

Use your IPA to remove any polish residue to prep your paintwork for whatever you choose to protect n seal. 

 

I don't think you can go wrong with the CG Hex pads so why not buy a white, green & orange, then you have options in terms of cut levels. 

 

If you fancy trying the S20, let me know n I'll send you a sample so you're not throwing money down the pan if you don't get on with it.

 

PM your details so I can post to you. I don't think you're far from me.

 

Best wishes Ben

 

David

Edited 30 April, 20179 yr by Chubbs

Hiya David,

 

Thanks for the offer, I shall contact you separately..

 

So I've done my research and I am going to go with my gut instinct and will purchase from CYC and I've already been in contact with them and they will allow me to collect and save the postage...Good considering their facility is but 5 miles from where I live.

 

I am going to get the following products from them. (see attached image)....Quite a lot there but I know given the initial outlay I'll have the tools to do the job for a good while to come.

 

Thanks for the tip on IPA....though I am going to skip this step as I've opted for CG  Citrus wash and gloss , as coupled with a good claying this should prep my body work for the polishing stage.

 

I do not want to go as aggressive as an orange pad on my first outing so have opted for a Green CG Hex Logic and followed by a Lake Country CSS White Pad...

 

If after this I decide I need to go more aggressive then I'll move to a Orange Pad + Compound then Polish but I should get a great result from using CG VSS followed by AutoGlym Super Resin to add some fillers to the deep scratches and mask them a bit..

 

The car is taken  on a cloudy day and it looks great but on closer inspection its far from perfect and I know I will need some touch up work.

 

Alloys are also booked in for a re-condition as the previous owner had a love affair with curbs which has caused the surface to go 'millky' in spots....

 

Still struggling to find a work space so out will have to be outside job..but I have half a dozen cans of compressed air so I can simply blow any loose matter off the paint before I begin an form of correction.

 

All The Best

 

Ben