My first VRS but with fault code P2100

[JoolsR]

Hi all. Ive just bought my first Skoda Fabia VRS 1.9 TDI on an 07 plate, and its amazing. The dealer gave me an amazing deal as there was an engine management light on. The code is P2100. If i delete the code whilst the engine is running, the light stays off. I can stop and start a few times, then upon starting after a 30 seconds or more gap, it comes on again. Performance is still great but I've nothing to compare it too. MPG over 70 miles on motorways and A roads was 64 so pretty good. Fuse F8 has been checked and is OK but if any other fuses could be the cause, let me know.

The throttle body has been replaced and the problem has been there for 38,000 miles/ 2 half years, so not a major problem.

Has anyone experienced this before and had any luck solving it?

Thanks.

Jools.

[TMB]

Fuse 8 doesn't seem to be used.

 

 

[JoolsR]

My mistake. Several sites said number 8 but I checked 24 ( engine electronics ).

 

[vindaloo]

No throttle body on a diesel. I may be wrong but this seems to pertain to the ASV and/or EGR on the 1.9TDI.

Hopefully all the OEM bits are there and no-ones fitted and EGR delete?

 

J.

[JoolsR]

That's what confused me as diesels dont have throttle bodies, but loads of sites mention the throttle body and the garage receipt states it too. I assume that is the Anti Shuter Valve you mentioned. There is no EGR delete too. The P2100 code comes up on the reader as ' Throttle Actuator Control Motor Circuit/Open...??? As I said before, once started, you can delete the code and the light stays off. You can turn off and fire up again and its fine, but leave it longer than about 5-10 seconds and it lights up upon starting.

[Breezy_Pete]

I think on the BLT engine, the 'anti-shudder valve' does more than just cut off the air supply at ignition off.  I imagine it also actually does throttle the air supply during certain running conditions to generate pressure differences that allow more EGR flow, so it is more like a throttle body, though not really in the same sense as on a petrol engine where it is the fundamental power control.

 

I can tell you pin numbers for the wiring, if you want to get down and dirty with a multimeter to test for open/short circuits?

[JoolsR]

Hi Wino. That would be great. I'm utterly clueless so will be showing the details to my brother in law who is the family genius. 

Just looked at the wiring and it looks a bit bodged, black tape badly wound, no protection for the wiring.

[Breezy_Pete]

Pin 1 of connector at ASV, brown wire, goes to chassis/ground/earth within the engine compartment wiring loom.  Check that it has near zero resistance to battery negative.

Pin 2 of connector at ASV, blue/black wire, should have near zero resistance from the fuse (24), may need an extended probe lead to do this measurement.

Pin 3 of connector at ASV, red/blue wire, should have near zero resistance to pin 81 of the engine ECU.

Pin 4 of connector at ASV, red/purple wire, should have near zero resistance to pin 75 of the engine ECU.

Check that none of them are shorting to each other, and that 3 and 4 aren't shorting to chassis.

 

Unwrapping the black tape for a visual inspection will be well worth doing by the sounds of it.

 

[JoolsR]

Cheers Wino. Much appreciated. I'll update once we've checked things.

 

[JoolsR]

P.S When this part was replaced, should it have been calibrated or is it just a straight swap out?

 

[Breezy_Pete]

Dunno, sorry. If you google V157 (the designation of this device in the current flow diagrams), you may find some info about it generally, and replacement specifically.

[Breezy_Pete]

No, according to this page.

Watch out with googling, V157 also designates some intake manifold flap on later engines, not relevant here.

[JoolsR]

Just checked the wiring connector, and the blue wire, far right of the connector, isn't connected. The brother in law has the tools so hopefully an easy fix.

 

[Breezy_Pete]

Photo?

Please let us know if this was the problem.

[JoolsR]

You can see the red is broken into number 4, and there's no wire protection, just bit of black tape.

 

[JoolsR]

IT WORKED!!!!!!!

The broken wire was never properly attached, just soldered in place then covered with black tape. The pin broke as I tried to get the old wire out, but an ebay member selling the whole plug connector, pins etc, was only a 15 minute drive away. The lights now off and hasn't come back on after about 10 start ups, so fingers crossed, it did it. 

Thanks ever so much for your advice and knowledge. I know where to come in the future.

 

[Breezy_Pete]

Great result. Well done.