Little odd one with my brake pads wear.

 

All 4 discs and pads were replaced at the same time (10k ago) but the rear pads are totally gone whilst the fronts have loads of life left.

I do carry weight in the back. Could the brake balance have been adjusted to the back due to the weight and it caused the odd wear?

Gone in 10k? They should have lasted for longer time, I guess. Maybe the whole rear brake system is rusty and therefore pads don't go off the discs? Have you checked whether rear discs become hot?

They do get hot as they should, they squeak at the moment due to the pads being so low (replacements being fitted tomorrow)

Yes it plays roll that load is carried too often in the back, it affects rear breaking system though...

Is the same brand and quality front with rear parts?

All the same. OEM brembos from ecp fitted at the same time

Shouldn't make that much difference even with load, I'd be thinking faulty pad batch, maybe change pad brand next time, as well as check caliper piston and carrier slides for operation, to make sure the pads are releasing from discs.

 

Do they get hot with little or no braking. That is a sure sign of a fault.  I've never used Brembo, so no specific experience to gauge but my vRS had original rear discs and pads (Bosch) when I bought it at 33k. The discs were corroded and pads probably 2/3 worn. On a mk5 GT Golf I got 60k miles out of rear pads and discs!  I don't carry loads in the rear admittedly but the front is still going to be doing the majority of the braking overall... I'd be disappointed at 10k unless you've been dropping into Brands Hatch.

Rear pads should do double that of the front pads even with a lot of weight carried in the boot, as when you brake the weight transfers to front (thats why cars were fitted with load sensing valves before ABS was common place, they were fitted to stop the rear end from locking the when braking hard)

 

to have only done 10k on a set of rear pads shows there must a fault somewhere, i'd make sure all the sliders and guide pins are clean, move freely and regreased, also make sure the pistons wind back in easy (will need a windback tool for this), as these are know to sieze and ruin a set of pads. 

 

Also make sure the carriers are clean as brake dust can stop the pads from moving freely.

 

I have done this with all the cars i have bought as brakes and tyres are not to left, they are the only things stopping you from falling off the road and having an accident.

I have a feeling they are a bad batch, mainly due to how long they took to bed in and that they are generally crap. 

 

They are getting replaced today so will ask the garage to check for abnormalities 

Hi, I know you purchased from a big chain but I wonder if the pads you got were Fakes ?

From the Pagit website.

 

Unfortunately, we live in a world where fake brake parts exist. The last thing you need is brake failure or a reduction in braking performance when you need it most.

From a twisty mountain pass, to a 20mph zone near a school, if you need to brake suddenly, the peace of mind that your brakes will provide enough stopping power is essential. They are a crucial safety feature and one where skimping on quality to save some money could be a matter of life and death.

In this day and age, it is very easy to simply find the cheapest items online. Everyone loves to save a few pounds. However, there are many dangers to avoid on the internet. Sadly, fake brake parts are a very real thing. For example, Porsche Cayenne brakes pads usually cost around £200. The same brake pads can be found online for under £10. Perhaps unsurprisingly, these are fake and could have dire consequences.

The only way to guarantee your safety is to buy original parts from a reputable source. We have created a few simple bullet points below, for both garages and the end consumer, to help avoid such a scenario.

For garages to help avoid selling fakes:
• Use well known and highly regarded braking brands.
• Only buy from trusted suppliers.
• Try to refuse installation of parts already purchased by customers to avoid fitting parts that are not up to standard.
• Advise customers away from purchasing parts elsewhere.
• If you have any doubts, please get in touch with Pagid. We are happy to help.

How to spot a fake, for customers:
• Do not be tempted by amazingly cheap “deals” on the internet.
• If you are not sure, simply ask a trusted garage or professional for advice.
• Only purchase brake parts from trusted or renowned garages.
• Keep to branded items and avoid brakes from companies you have not heard of before.
• If you have any hesitation, please contact Pagid. We are happy to help.

But we offer more than simple advice. While it pays to keep to our advice listed above, Pagid also take several important steps to help avoid fakes getting to market. These are:
• Our products are sold in protected packaging, with a hologram seal, to help avoid forgeries.
• We assist EU regulators and customs authorities with the identification of forged goods. These are then confiscated.
• We use the same exact shipping routes, channels and supply chains. If anything changes, we closely monitor and investigate.
• We work closely with dealership and garage networks to ensure a secure distribution chain.

When all is said and done, your safety is paramount. With Pagid, you have a brand that you can rely on. Trust is very important when it comes to peace of mind, so with our measures and these useful tips, we hope you enjoy a safe journey.

There's always the possibility. 

 

I bought green stuff pads from mtec to replace them and the garage rang me saying they don't fit. 

 

The old Skoda gave everyone the wrong information pops up again it seems. 

On 7/7/2017 at 09:34, Ju1ian1001 said:

Rear pads should do double that of the front pads even with a lot of weight carried in the boot, as when you brake the weight transfers to front (thats why cars were fitted with load sensing valves before ABS was common place, they were fitted to stop the rear end from locking the when braking hard)

 

 

That's the theory but don't forget that Octavia rear brakes come on before the front brakes under light braking situations.  This makes the transition to nose dive a bit less dramatic.

 

I know my brake wear isn't typical but I've just done rear pads and rotors after 180,000km and the fronts are only down to 7mm.

 

The OPs wear sounds really accelerated though.  I would suspect seized sliders, bad calipers or an issue with the handbrake cable / mechanism.

I asked the garage to check the brakes out when changing them. 

 

They found no issues

 

I have a feeling it's a bad batch of pads. Especially as ECP don't stock brembos OEM for most cars now

With the issues of rear brakes being so common I think a sticky is needed.

 

At the moment Mtec have 3 pads for the rear of the Octavia VRS Diesel when you select Green Stuffs. 2 are for 2009> and 1 is for 2006-2009 but they say 2006-2013 on the website. I chose the wrong ones  but Mtec are going to refund me.

 

I think there needs to be some info put up as its asked so much and as we know, the fault lies with Skoda who gave out the wrong information

Quote

 

i have a broken arm i think its the load sensor arm on back i moves up & down but seized up and snapped whats it called and cant find one anywhere main dealer part ? any help ?

2008 octavia estate diesel ,

 

1 hour ago, kenzone said:

i have a broken arm i think its the load sensor arm on back i moves up & down but seized up and snapped whats it called and cant find one anywhere main dealer part ? any help ?

2008 octavia estate diesel ,

There isn't a load sensor on a MkII Octavia!

estate ? i have a mechanical arm sort of on the back axle slightly closer to the passenger side rear wheel its broken what is it then ? any clues ? 

 

PS had on friends reader said rear left and rear right speed sensor fault abs light on and hand brake light flashing and bleeping 3 times brake fluid full all pads replaced  

Edited 12 April, 20188 yr by kenzone

At a guess I'd say the level sensor for the headlights. Do you have xenon headlights?

just googled headlight level sensor & its looks like the image to mine so its looking like your riht  thank you i will look on ebay see if i can pick one up 

£38 flea bay if not affecting car may leave it  for now doing auto box oil  change next week that comes first 

Edited 12 April, 20188 yr by kenzone
update

If it's broken then your headlights will be missalligned and you might be blinding oncoming drivers

 

tbh i cant remember the last time i drove in the dark i only use the car  8am to 6pm MOT due in july i et it sorted before then thanks