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Steering wheel position


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2 hours ago, TMB said:

Knocking over bumps is more likely to be the ARB drop links.

Oh, yes!

 

 

My advice (as others' too): find a garage with a four - wheel alingment machine. Be sure the operator does have the specs for your car. Every car, even of the same make and model has special alignment specs depending on the engine type, trims etc. He must check the camber, caster and toe. Even if, only the toe can be aligned at fabias the mesurment of the other angles will give you a good information about the chassis condition if you suspect you have a curbed car. Let him align your wheels and ask him if he felt any gap at the joints. If he is a real pro he will be able to tell you.

 

From what you say, your front wheels must have been out of alignment and this could be a good reason for a wheel to scratch the body on a full end cornering.

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Thanks-will get that done in the future.  Just don't understand where the rubbing noise comes from when turning left tightly. No visible obvious evidence, No noise when not being driven when the wheel is turned but not moving forwards. Is it getting wind-up on a suspension coil? Had this on a Nissan Terrano.

Think I bought a headache without the joy of getting drunk!!!

 

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Wife has been out in the car and moaned about a noise on the left front. Sounds like a brake sticking as still there when freewheeling - regular tick increasing with speed and wheel hot when stopped. But whether going forwards or reverse out of a tight drive as the lock increases it feels like its trying to drive against the brakes or climb a boulder. And yes the steering wheel is at the ten past position to go straight. Thinking of weighing the car in at the scrappy unless an obvious solution emerges.

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The breaking point for switching to another car is a difficult decision. Most risk-free situation is buying a 5 year old car and sell it when it's 10 years old if you prefer certainty over budget. And if you buy an occasion, always make sure it's checked by a proper independent mechanic. There are even good Peugeots and bad Toyota's. It all depends on design/manufacturer flaws, owner abuse and proper maintenance. Skoda is not the best brand, but parts are cheap in comparison, mechanics have a lot experience with the brand (almost the same car/parts as Volkswagen and Seat). And another trick to safe money and frustration, always buy the slowest, last build, ugliest and most simple edition of a car. And never rush.

 

Only grannies will buy a new 50hp car and bring it to the dealer for maintenance. A swagger that flies with his car will by the 150hp version with all the possible bling-bling, but doesn't have to money to bring in to the dealer. So far the stereotypes.

 

How old was the Skoda when you bought it?

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Its a 2002 car I bought a couple of weeks ago. It needed a driveshaft/cv joint and a wheel bearing/hub. Local garage fitted but now when steering wheel centred front left wheel (one worked on) points slightly outwards-hence with steering wheel at ten past position when going straight. Meets a significant force when approaching and at full lock only when driving -no problem when stationary. Think it is dragging the right wheel.

Only bought it to replace wife's old 1998 Astra which needs MOT shortly. Not been a wise move it seems. Have operated 'Bangernomics) for years but think slipped-up with this one!

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Though it sound strange, but compared to its age a worn CV joint and bearing is quite common. If the car is tip-top besides that, it's not as bad as it seems. I assume you did not pay much for the car itself.

 

The front-bearing can be replaced on itself, but sometimes they rusted solid to the hub. This is the workshop manual for it:

 

http://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/fabia-mk1/chassis/front_suspension_drive_shafts/repairing_the_wheel_bearing/removing_and_installing_the_wheel_hub_with_wheel_bearing_with_the_wheel-bearing_housing_fitted/

 

Especially read: " If after the test drive and with the front wheels pointing straight ahead the steering wheel is off straight, perform a chassis alignment "

 

A normal garage doesn't have the equipment to align a car, but they should point you on doing it at a prof. align. shop.

 

If you wheel gets hot, this means the garage didn't fit the discs or pads correctly and they are constantly braking. You should go back a.s.a.p to the garage before the discs are bend or faded.

 

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Yes they can't have fitted the brakes back properly. I do know it was banged on the front left in 2011 and repaired but my garage man cannot get the tracking right and says its a crab. But it did not have the steering wheel at ten past before it went there nor did it start locking up  when turning left. Obviously they have not done the job correctly but admit they are defeated.

Am loathe to give them the car back as clearly they are incompetent .

Car cost me £175 off ebay so expected a couple of hundred to sort it but now becoming more expensive than value-hence its probable extinction!

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Alright. That's very cheap for a 15 year old car. At least the garage should looked at the collision damage first before mending the car. For repairing such collision damage you'll need another specialist since the car frame, shocks and wishbones etc. can be bend in a way that a local garage with a new axle or hub cannot solve.

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Ha £175 you can't expect much for that. I spent £300 on a £1300 car on a new clutch but wasn't bothered as I thought that was a 'cheap' old car.

Yes your probably right scrap it and try another £175 car and see what that is like.

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Have phoned local garage back and they are taking another look in the next couple of days. It was crashed in 2011 and p-assed it MOT no bother since. Last one was only 2000 miles ago with no advisories. Think they now are trying to blame the driveshaft and hub I got from a breakers. We will see. Perhaps I have been lucky in the past buying cheap cars but if nothing changes I will have to stop this cheap one becoming expensive.

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  • 4 weeks later...

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