electrical Boost Control Circuit issue - P2080/p P0047/P - blown fuse 23

[toddywow]

Afternoon Ladies and Gents,

 

back with another problem (shock) this time it appears to an electrical issue. i recently had a new boost pressure solenoid put on my car and the wiring on it worked on after the getting the fault codes p2425, p2426, p2427 and P0047 on my 170CR VRS octavia.

all was fixed and 125 quid later the car was sorted. happy days.

 

now my car is in limp mode again with the following codes:

 

P0047 - Turbo/Super Charger Boost Control Solenoid Circuit Low

P0047p

P2080 - EGT Sensor Circ Performance Bank 1 Sensor 1

P2080p

 

(EML and glow plug light flashing)

 

car is also blowing fuse 23 the second it gets put into the slot. ive does this with 4 fuses. regardless weather the engine is running or if the ignition is on.

 

clearly something is shorting out but the garage i took it to said it might be the loom? and it needs to go to a proper auto electrician. so i took it to one who after explaining my issue promptly said its too big a job and will take days to diagnose he told me to take it to skoda.

im in two minds to do this because 1: my cars remapped 2: the cars DPF has been "deleted" and egr has been blanked and mapped out and 3: my cars is involved with the emissions scandal and god nows what skoda will do when they see what ive done to my car in regard to their new software updates ETC..

 

anyway... any one got any ideas on how to make some progress or experienced similar themselves? i understand that the codes its throwing up can be common however i haven't seen them linked to blowing fuses.

 

any info would be great or you are more than welcome to just point and laugh as well.

 

cheers all.

[langers2k]

You need to find a wiring diagram and track down anything connected from that fuse.

 

Hopefully one of the items will be faulty, causing a short and blowing the fuse.

 

If they are all OK and the fuse still blows with nothing connected downstream, you probably have a short in the loom  

[toddywow]

11 minutes ago, langers2k said:

You need to find a wiring diagram and track down anything connected from that fuse.

 

Hopefully one of the items will be faulty, causing a short and blowing the fuse.

 

If they are all OK and the fuse still blows with nothing connected downstream, you probably have a short in the loom  

 

i imagine this isnt something an electrical novice could do? im hopeless with electronics lol. as for the wiring diagram is this something a haynes manual will help with?

 

cheers

[pikpilot]

Can't help with the limp mode but I think Fuse 23 is the main power for the electric windows. Do they work?

It is not unknown for the wires to break/short in the flexible coupling that takes the wires from the body to the doors. First check the most likely one, the driver's door. Pull back the rubber tube and carefully look for breaks in the wires. Some people have reported multiple broken wires and the broken ends of two different wires touching each other inside the rubber snake.

[toddywow]

4 hours ago, pikpilot said:

Can't help with the limp mode but I think Fuse 23 is the main power for the electric windows. Do they work?

It is not unknown for the wires to break/short in the flexible coupling that takes the wires from the body to the doors. First check the most likely one, the driver's door. Pull back the rubber tube and carefully look for breaks in the wires. Some people have reported multiple broken wires and the broken ends of two different wires touching each other inside the rubber snake.

hi

 

all windows work along with wipers lights etc. only thing that doesnt in that area is the car does not unlock remotely, but it does lock and the boot unlocks remotely. just unlocking which doesnt work, this also set the alarm of in the car unless i turn ignition. but i guess this is an unrelated issue.