Got a 2013 yeti 2.0 tdi 4x4 and the exhaust inspection light has come on (amber).

Anybody had similar problem.done 33500 miles and had the EA 189 done in november 2016 .

Answered it yourself....fix/fail

My 2 Ltr has done 37500 and had the fix done at a similar time. Not had any trouble at all. I've said it on here and on other forums before, don't believe all the bad press about the fix. The vast majority of "fixed" cars are fine, only a minority have failed.

 

The 2 Ltr diesel engine is meant to be a workhorse, mile cruncher and problems can be brought on by driving styles and frequency. If the majority of the driving someone does is stop start and around the doors then the fix will bring a fail sooner but the fail would quite likely happen anyway.

 

If your driving is less than 50% miles on motorway or where you can accelerate through the gears then you need to put some miles through the engine to get it warmed up and running for a decent time or try the Italian tune up.

 

I know everyone blames the fix but that is not backed up by figures and before everyone wants to hate me, I feel for the people who's car has failed after the fix and I hope they get a satisfactory result from Skoda UK but the fix is sometimes only part of the issue.

 

The garage I use had a 2Ltr Octavia in the other week for multiple issues, the guy who owns it does a 6 mile commute, 3 mile there and 3 back, 5 times a week in traffic and generally doesn't use his car on a weekend but was blaming the fix because, "All the cars that have had the fix are failing". The car failed because he bought a 2Ltr diesel to drive only as far as he could walk, it's ludicrous. My advice to him would be to get an electric car, a push bike or walk, not a 2Ltr diesel capable of pulling a caravan up the side of a house.

 

To lay it out, I only ever use premium fuel or supermarket fuel that I put additives into, I give it a blast through the gears at least once a week down the A19 and then maintain 70 mph in 3rd and 4th for a 5 to 10 minute period. On its' MOT in December the guy did the emissions test and said that it was the cleanest diesel he'd tested in a long time.

 

If it is an issue with miles and fuel it could be that by driving it at high rev's and 70mph for a n hour or so, the light could go off.

The issues after 'The Fix' might be low, not as low as the VW UK CEO Paul Willis or VW say, 1%, 2%, pick a number.

But then you got a 24 month piece of mind VW guarantee of sorts, 

use it and make the Official Report of concerns post 'The Fix', then next time that VW have someone in front of the Transport Select Committee the actual low or not number of 'Owners' reporting issues might be known.

 

Because of the first 600,000 vehicles done in the UK, VW Group were the owner of many of them, or owned the company leasing them to people, 

so they never complained to VW about VW. 

Hence 1% or 2% as a figure given in evidence.

 

 

Edited 19 January, 20188 yr by AwaoffSki

Hi JimJill, 

I think WFM says a lot of sense, I guess my usage pattern is fairly low mileage, and cheapest supermarket fuel, but I always add Millers fuel additive every fill-up, also do a 150--200miles round trip once a fortnight where it gets a good dose of steep hills and fast motorway work, and yes, there's one long straight hill up out of a 30mph restriction where I floor it in third for about half a mile, and nowadays see very little smoke in the rear-view mirror.  And yes, not had any problems with MOT smoke test on this or previous diesels by following same routine.

My car isn't involved in the EA189 recall BTW.  And yes, as George ("Awayoffski") says, record your difficulties with Skoda UK.

Richard

Cheapest Super Market fuel is the same as the Cheapest Branded Fuels, Shell Fuelsave, Esso, Gulf, BP, Jet, Gleaner or whoever.

Comes in on Ships, or pipelines, goes to storage facilities and depots.

Sold in the Billions of Litres to millions of buyers.

 

There are no Cheaper Refineries, making own brand diesel like own brand baked beens.

Do people believe the Branded wholeseller / retailer is giving you special Additive packages for the extra 3, 4 or 5 pence more a litre paid

buying Regular Diesel in a Franchised Branded Filling station over a Super Market Branded Filling Station?

http://greenergy.com/uk/independent 

 

Premium Diesel will have the Additive / Detergent package and the higher Cetane if you are paying for Premium Diesel.

Edited 19 January, 20188 yr by AwaoffSki

You're wrong.  Fuel that we buy is made up of 'base fuel' (the liquid hydrocarbon stuff coming out of the refinery) plus performance-enhancing additives.  This may be only a little bit of antifoam, or may be a cocktail of ignition improvers, cetane improvers, detergents, stability enhancers, whatever.  The additives are added during the tanker loading, so a tanker may appear to be loading from the same terminal, but as they are loading, the fuel is being dosed and customised to meet the specification of whatever location they will deliver to.  Big brand oil companies have proprietary additives in their 'normal' fuel and more/different additives in their 'premium' fuel.  So you can not say supermarket fuel = branded fuel (even if the same tanker delivered to the different outlets from ostensibly the same 'refinery').

Correct Weasley, but for some reason people don't seem to accept it.

weasley, 

Tell more since you were an insider, 

 

so to the Regular Diesels from the depot, who adds the best package,  is it Shell, or BP, or do Greenergy add Esso's better package than Greenergy do for 

Tesco or Costco?

Does Sainsbury or Morrison have a substandard additive packed, just cheapo, or none added?

 

?

Which Brand of diesel do you use, and what is your second choice if your first is not close or available?

11 minutes ago, AwaoffSki said:

Does Sainsbury or Morrison have a substandard additive packed, just cheapo, or none added?

 

Don't know if they still do it but Morrisons fuel used to be Texaco Clean System 3.
Apparently one of the best blends.

The Millers fuel additives get a good report from industry watchdogs and experts and that is what I use if I can't get to a garage that sells decent premium.

 

When I spoke to an "insider" a number of years ago he said that the base fuels were all the same and that some of the tankers from "decent" suppliers showed up with additives already in the tank and they added the base fuel on top of them to create the mix. So he backed up the comments above.

 

My jury is still out on whether it gives loads of performance or MPG benefits, it does give some BUT I am absolutely convinced that premium fuel alongside driving an engine correctly will keep the fuel delivery and combustion parts of the engine is as good a condition as possible.

 

I also double dose with REDEX once every 4 - 6 months when I am going on a long run to burn off any stray debris.

Edited 19 January, 20188 yr by WFM
Poor grammar..!

There are insiders on the forum, and we are all Motoring / Car enthusiasts, 

we buy fuels for road vehicles.

so we should understand Premium Diesel / Higher Catane, and Super Unleaded, 97, 99 minimum in the UK or 100+.

 

But as to Regular UK Diesel surely the insiders can say which is 'superior' higher than the minimum standard that they must and do meet. 

Surely they can say which has a TDI which is what most with a diesel in this section are interested in runs better or further or has less EGR or DPF issues buy using.

Has less regens!

Which will have a Post Fix VW engine that has had the Defeat Device removed, new engine management and is a bit not running well 

sorted by using the Superior Regular Diesel from one Brand or another.

 

Not talking Premium Diesel here and a higher Cetane, just Regular Diesel.

Edited 19 January, 20188 yr by AwaoffSki

“Best” is subjective.  I use big branded fuels and will never use a supermarket fuel.  As I have said on other posts, my recently departed Yeti never once had a moment's issue with EGR, DPF or anything else combustion related.

 

The only specification that is required is BS EN 590 which is not especially aimed at performance, so exceeding this is not a big challenge.  However I have seen the benefits of better fuels first hand.  Fuel injectors that are cleaner, seen under a scanning electron microscope.  This means a better spray pattern, which means better combustion.  Even if a nozzle has got dirty, a decent fuel can reverse this and clean away some deposits.

 

I don’t make brand recommendations as I don’t want to be seen as partisan, but I have spent time with the fuels development people and last year spent a week on a stand at the Geneva Motor Show explaining the benefits of decent fuels using a car which had run on good and bad fuel (at the same time, in the same engine) and an endoscope to show the difference (admittedly that was a petrol engine, but I also had some diesel injectors to show too).

 

I’m not a fuels guy (I work in lubricants) but we all work in the same place and on the same engines - you pick up a few things along the way.

It is all good stuff.

So half or so the Diesel Car drivers in the UK are using what is sold at Supermarket Branded Filling Stations and maybe the same percentage or less get there from the Multi National Fuel selling filling stations.

Just as well that many never know any difference and those that might keep their vehicles for a long time because they spend wisely and maybe buy the cheapest fuel that suits their vehicle just keep on running them.

Only issues some have are the car manufacturers cheated on the software and components are a bit dodgy and have limited lives due to the need to have low emissions / pollutants / particulates, and it turns out to meet the standards they are in a bit of trouble, 

and that has nothing to do with the owners buying from a super market filling station or some other establishment.

 

 

Edited 20 January, 20188 yr by AwaoffSki

The facts still remain that MANY vag owners have had serious problems since the cheating fix/fail and components are being replaced under so called good will policy which last for a couple of years .if you haven’t had a problem since the fix good on you but that is not much consolatation to the thousands having major issues and find there cars at the dealers for weeks on end trying to resolve issues that vag said would not happen after the fix.

Thanks for all the info going to the stealers on monday .

what is the exhaust inspection light for /do .

The light is probably saying that it has not been possible to complete a DPF regen.
A longish run when up to temperature at 2000+ revs should clear it.
I suspect the car has only been having shortish journeys.

jimjill,

I had the fix done mid 2017. I posted this back early August 2017, :-

 

"Well, everything had been going so well, until 3rd August.

I had a very nice 3 hr trip towing the caravan from Southend-on-sea to near Cromer.  40mpg, running and pulling nicely.

Went to go about 4:30 pm and found the "exhaust inspection system" warning light. The book says:-

"If the indicator light  lights up, there is a fault in the exhaust inspection system.
The system allows the vehicle to run in emergency mode.
Seek assistance from a specialist garage immediately."

So I phoned up Robinsons in Norwich, explained out of warranty/fix done/could it be EGR valve. They had the car in at 11am next day and ran a diagnostic, so good on them for quick service.

Result was no exhaust fault found, but following fault codes showed up from a week earlier:-

• high speed Can Communication bus
• engine control module faulty
• throttle pedal position sensor.

Car ran fine from then on with no loss in power. 2 up 55mpg + on the maxidot, 38mpg when towing."

 

 

Thinking back on this I can only guess I had a blip on the throttle position sensor, the Can bus communication system could not get the message through to the ecu so this also logged a fault.

Since this happened I have completed about 7K of which 2.5K has been towing. No problems.

 

Colin

 

ps - No supermarket diesel has been used in the car.

Edited 20 January, 20188 yr by eribaMotters

There's that phrase 'I've said it before'. Pre- the EA189 fix the majority of diesels will have done some miles. Their exhaust systems , EGR and throttle valves will already be gummed up if you aren't doing the higher speed motorway mileages and I would expect towing to be particularly hard on the emissions control parts?

 

Then Skoda do their ECU fix on your diesel which makes the emission control work as it should, but with more dpf regeneration cycles. Some time after you get the warnings come up - EGR valve, throttle valve fault or even dpf and you complain the problem is due to their fix? There is no argument that the fix has probably contributed towards the early onset of faults. But my argument is diesel engines having the mod. done are not clean to start with and most probably would have produced the same exhaust faults sooner or later?

 

If you were to run my argument over the engine designers I suspect the following would come up: With low mileage diesel engine running, what would be the expected mileage before emissions system clogging and faults would occur? My gut feeling reading posts on other VAG forums is 30-50 k miles and when problems do arise, will VAG cover them up with warranty or goodwill offers? Now you add in the EA189 fix, what do you think that will do for existing engines that are in the 35-50k mileage range and if Skoda were starting with a new clean engine, what mileage would it now do before exhaust problems were seen?

 

I'm just being devils advocate and saying those that have had the EA189 fix done have started with dirty engines and it's unfair to blame the mod. immediately. Now that I've cleaned my gunked up throttle valve and replaced the EGR cooler a few months before my Yeti had the fix, I will be in a fairer position to say if the fix has made the exhaust system more unreliable. The car is far more responsive now and goes like a rocket without an aftermarket tune. I am monitoring the dpf ash levels because the design life of the dpf was claimed to be around 100k miles. I suspect my ash levels will now be rising faster than they used to.  The problem is comparing 'apples with apples' and you can't rely on mileage alone, because one diesel vehicle running local short journeys cannot be compared to another doing a 20 mile motorway commute every day.

 

The market had plenty of time to evaluate the Skoda CFHC series engine when it was first introduced and the Dealer workshops have had time to learn its common faults, But now the ECU has been modified it is a different engine and unfortunately we do not have the Skoda 3 year no quibble new car factory warranty to fall back on. We should be watching for feedback from members who have had their newest engines modified with say 10K miles or less on the odo.

Hi all 

            Thanks for all the info been to the dealers today and its a EGR valve hopefully to be done 

             under skoda goodwill. Also the diagnostics showed a haldex clutch pump fault .  

Another fix /fail as suspected

Their goodwill for me was free parts but labor was still over £600 for the 4X4! The Haldex clutch pump (inoperative?) will probably be the motor brushes or wire connection to it. I fixed mine and posted the how to here, I also explained that many 4X4s could be driving without AWD operating as there was no dash warning until you had a scan done. I fitted an led. The Stealer will probably replace the complete pump?

Is the led in the how to?

Was it easy to do and how does it show the 4wd is working? Pump running indication?

The most common fault is there is no 12 volt power being supplied to the (small) pump from the Haldex control unit. All I did was splice a 12 volt green led (or led with resistor) on to the pump supply wires and mount the led in the vertical trim panel on one side at the back. I can see this in the corner of the rear view mirror and it is therefore not obtrusive, even at night. The pump and AWD is only active under certain driving conditions and now I can see when the led is lit that it should be in AWD mode - most often during acceleration, deceleration and cornering for normal road driving.

 

This simple monitor works because when the Haldex controller sees a normal working pump in circuit, it supplies power to the motor and turns on my led. If the controller sees an open circuit faulty pump motor for any reason, it locks out control and doesn't supply 12 volt. My led will not detect a mechanical problem directly but the controller is continually doing self checks and will stop powering the pump and latch a fault code if it thinks something is wrong.You should find what you need in these threads:

.

 

 

 

It really is a shame that some sort of indication such as the led as described isn’t fitted as std as I had my haldex fail (just before the warranty expired) but had suspected it was not working for some time so perhaps Skoda don’t want owners to be aware when there is a haldex failure when a simple device would be very helpful.