Hi folks just looking for advice etc. 

Took my car to a vw specialist today (Phil Davies in plymouth) for an inspection as the boot is leaking badly. Also got him to look at rear brakes as binding on. Just picked the car up and I've been told the following:

 

1. Rear brakes completely shot right down to the metal on both sides including both calipers and both rear handbrake cables. Obviously discs and pads are ok to change did that lots on previous cars but never done a caliper or a handbrake cable. Are they easy enough to do? Also does anyone have any links to where I could get decent priced calipers and a handbrake cable?

2. Rear boot rubber seal diagnosed as being at fault. Where can I get one? Searched eBay to no avail. 

 

Car running sweet after changing fuel pump and pcv system. Due an mot next month too so wanting it to be a1 

 

Thanks in advance for the advice etc. 

 

 

your vw specialist should be able to get you a boot seal from TPS - not expensive, easy enough to change yourself if you want to diy it

 

rear brakes easy to do, you will need a caliper rewind tool. If you need new calipers look on ebay for green painted trw ones which are basically oe but will fit in with the look of the car

1. Calipers are easy enough to replace but you'll have to bleed the brakes afterwards. If you can't get the brakes bled properly then you might be stuck. Not replaced a handbrake cable myself but wouldn't have thought it would be too difficult as long as you can get good access under the car. For the parts try TPS, ECP, GSF or CP4L. Getting green coloured replacement calipers might be tricky, you might need to look on eBay too. Alternatively you could get normal unpainted calipers and either fit them as-is or paint them yourself before fitting. Another alternative is to buy used calipers and have them refurbished (new seals, piston etc.). I have a pair of rear calipers in need of refurb that I would let go cheap.

 

If you get a garage to replace the calipers, you might as well have them do the discs/pads at the same time as the extra labour will be marginal. I would recommend Pagid or Brembo discs/pads.

 

2. From a breaker. TPS or dealer otherwise. Is there obvious damage to the seal?

Part number for rear seal https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/octavia/oct/2002-252/8/827-827010/#2

Definitely need 2 new calipers as both completely shot. Aswell as 2 new cable for handbrake. 

Edited 22 January, 20188 yr by octaviavrs170

Just seen this on eBay 

59 minutes ago, vrsTom said:

1. Calipers are easy enough to replace but you'll have to bleed the brakes afterwards. If you can't get the brakes bled properly then you might be stuck. Not replaced a handbrake cable myself but wouldn't have thought it would be too difficult as long as you can get good access under the car. For the parts try TPS, ECP, GSF or CP4L. Getting green coloured replacement calipers might be tricky, you might need to look on eBay too. Alternatively you could get normal unpainted calipers and either fit them as-is or paint them yourself before fitting. Another alternative is to buy used calipers and have them refurbished (new seals, piston etc.). I have a pair of rear calipers in need of refurb that I would let go cheap.

 

If you get a garage to replace the calipers, you might as well have them do the discs/pads at the same time as the extra labour will be marginal. I would recommend Pagid or Brembo discs/pads.

 

2. From a breaker. TPS or dealer otherwise. Is there obvious damage to the seal?

not really any visible damage vrsTom but the garage did say that the amount of water on the edge of the seal and around that general area is probably the cause. he reckons maybe even the rubber seals around the rear lights could be perished too. will have to have a right good look. also the calipers are BAD and need replaced. I didn't think they were that bad but ive not had the time to do anything really to the car. been so busy away with work etc its just been sitting about in the bad weather.

gonna change the brake fluid too while I'm at it. Any advice on what to use or any specific vw part numbers etc?

The only point of potential pain when doing octavia handbrake cables, is getting the end at the floorpan end to release from the guide tube that it slides into for retention of the cable.

 

After the years of salt have had their way with the gap between the cable and the tube,(it is only a slide in fit, so not masses of slack when all is correct) they can be quite temperamental to want to come out. In the end, it comes down to how forceful you need to be to get the cable out. Sometimes it is a quick yank and out they come, other times it is molegrips, local heat and using every abusive word in the dictionary.

 

If it was me, I would be drowning the tube area almost daiy for 5 or 6 days with a good hit of Plusgas, to make the job as painleass as possible. I would also put a pair of hand brake mechanism return springs in your budget, as they can help your new cables to last a bit longer from starting to sieze (they fit to the caliper mechanism).

 

Omly other area of caution is be careful not to crush the banjo fitting when retightening, as they will weep, and the only permanent fix then is a new rear flexible line.

 

As has been said, TRW calipers are the way to go if you can get them, also, Rainworth Skoda have an ebay shop that do original end of stock lines at some very good prices sometimes when they have a stock clearout, but they will obviously be dearer than TRW items.

 

If you don't mind me asking, are you doing all the work, or are you sourcing the parts for your specialist to fit?.

Edited 22 January, 20188 yr by kentphil1

probably gonna do it myself again time dependent from work etc. Mechanic wants 650 incl all parts for the job. but I can get all the parts I reckon for less than half that price. not being tight but I'm not flush with the dosh atm. gonna get one of those sealey bleeders too when I change the brake fluid. I don't grudge the money but if I can do a job myself then happy days and save a couple of hundred in labour too.

Edited 22 January, 20188 yr by octaviavrs170

On the seal front, the rubber seals can dry out in the summer heat and stick to the tailgate for a second as it opens. Over a period of time this eventually puts paid to any strength and integrity to the seal.

When you fit a new one, give it a quick once over, and then redo it every 6 months or so with some Gummi Pflege - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gummi-Pflege-Rubber-Stick-100ml/dp/B007TNOQDI

the list for the job is as follows:

 

2 new rear brake calipers

discs and pads

caliper return springs

front discs and pads

new brake fluid

rear rubber boot seal and rear lights re-sealed

MOT

4 minutes ago, kentphil1 said:

On the seal front, the rubber seals can dry out in the summer heat and stick to the tailgate for a second as it opens. Over a period of time this eventually puts paid to any strength and integrity to the seal.

When you fit a new one, give it a quick once over, and then redo it every 6 months or so with some Gummi Pflege - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gummi-Pflege-Rubber-Stick-100ml/dp/B007TNOQDI

just had a look at that link there and that's a great shout actually never ever thought about doing that.

8 minutes ago, octaviavrs170 said:

probably gonna do it myself again time dependent from work etc. Mechanic wants 650 incl all parts for the job. but I can get all the parts I reckon for less than half that price. not being tight but I'm not flush with the dosh atm

If you do decide to diy it, do yourself a favour and order some new caliper carrier to axle beam bolts, as by now, the heads will probably only stand coming out once before the allen flats start to round out.

 

Use a good quality Hex socket bit to avoid the key turning in the bolt head and ruining your chances of getting the bolts out in the first place. Tap the socket bit well into the bolt head before starting to undo it, as it may take some force to get them to initially come undone.

Just now, kentphil1 said:

If you do decide to diy it, do yourself a favour and order some new caliper carrier to axle beam bolts, as by now, the heads will probably only stand coming out once before the allen flats start to round out.

 

Use a good quality Hex socket bit to avoid the key turning in the bolt head and ruining your chances of getting the bolts out in the first place. Tap the socket bit well into the bolt head before starting to undo it, as it may take some force to get them to initially come undone.

yeah was thinking that tbh. I was also thinking about changing the brake hoses to braided ones as well as replacing the bolts etc. you wouldn't happen to know where I could get replacement bolts etc. and if you had a part number even better.

The part number should be N90740302, as far as I know it is dealer only, but you could pump the number into an ebay search and see what comes up. I would try not to skimp on these bolt's quality, because if the head strips, you will hve to cut the head off and try to exreact it from the carrier. This is one of those times when it is not wise to save a penny.

 

I have not fitted braided lines to an Octy myself, but I cannot see a problem provided you do not try to clamp the braided line to prevent fluid loss, but use one of the under axle beam flexible hoses instead. Just make sure they come with appropriate sealing washers to the caliper before you start.

 

Edited 22 January, 20188 yr by kentphil1

ok folks just a wee update on the progress. Ordered today the following items:

1, MTEC 312mm front and 256mm rear drilled and grooved performance discs with mintex pads

2. 2 x new rear calipers TRW manufacturerd

3. handrake cables both sides

4. handbrake caliper return springs

5. 2l genuine brake fluid part number: B000750M3

6. Sealey VS820 pressure bleeder

7. 4x new caliper carrier bolts Part number: n90740302

 

gonna do this job hopefully everything arriving as per item delivery description this coming Saturday. total cost of replacing to this point: £450.00

bloody car better be worth this amount of money. anyway after this is done its MOT time and it better pass. ordered a new rear boot rubber from my companies skoda franchise too so hopefully that should be here with the next 2-3 days too. water imgress getting a bit much now. more updates as progress gets on.

 

Problems now with the order. Company who supply trw calipers have non in stock so going to go down route of refurbishing all 4 calipers with a company in Worcester called bigg red. 280 for all 4 calipers. Also problems with the discs and pads. Company want to know size of the discs and I'm not too sure. So does anyone know. I reckon 256mm at rear and 288mm at front. However the company reckon possibly 232mm solid discs at rear and 256mm front. Any ideas folks

Edited 1 February, 20188 yr by octaviavrs170

51 minutes ago, octaviavrs170 said:

Problems now with the order. Company who supply trw calipers have non in stock so going to go down route of refurbishing all 4 calipers with a company in Worcester called bigg red. 280 for all 4 calipers. Also problems with the discs and pads. Company want to know size of the discs and I'm not too sure. So does anyone know. I reckon 256mm at rear and 288mm at front. However the company reckon possibly 232mm solid discs at rear and 256mm front. Any ideas folks

 

I have a pair of rear calipers in need of refurb that I would let go cheap. I also have a spare driver's side front caliper that I bought but didn't need. Might be more convenient than removing yours and sending them all off?

 

Standard mk1 VRS discs are 312mm vented on the front and 256mm vented on the rear.

 

I wouldn't bother will drilled/grooved discs, just get plain Pagid/Brembo discs from ECP/CP4L or similar. The pads make the most difference to braking performance but unless you're taking the car round a track then standard Pagid/Brembo pads should be plenty good enough.

Cheers for the offer tom but I've already ordered them to be refurbed. Was gonna put a vmaxx kit on before but I'll just do the ones I have. Cheers for the reply mate. Just to clarify it's 312mm  front and 256mm rear both vented

Edited 1 February, 20188 yr by octaviavrs170

Update on car. Managed after a monumental fight against rusted bolts to get all calipers off and sent them away. Fast forward 8 weeks and they came back. I've just fitted new discs and pads refurbished calipers and carriers and replaced with all new bolts incl banjo bolts replaced the brake lines with a hel kit and just bled the brakes with a sealey bleeder. The fluid that came out was monumentally disgusting. However after doing all this my pedal sticks to the deck and I still have no brake pedal. Any suggestions peeps. Also done a few diagnostic tests and car is clear however clumatronic system check shows codes 4f7 4f8 I k ow what they mean as I've done a bit of research but in not sure of a solution. Any ideas on this and the brake pedal too. 

Edited 15 April, 20188 yr by octaviavrs170

Anyone know what this is and if it looks right. 

4 hours ago, octaviavrs170 said:

Update on car. Managed after a monumental fight against rusted bolts to get all calipers off and sent them away. Fast forward 8 weeks and they came back. I've just fitted new discs and pads refurbished calipers and carriers and replaced with all new bolts incl banjo bolts replaced the brake lines with a hel kit and just bled the brakes with a sealey bleeder. The fluid that came out was monumentally disgusting. However after doing all this my pedal sticks to the deck and I still have no brake pedal. Any suggestions peeps. Also done a few diagnostic tests and car is clear however clumatronic system check shows codes 4f7 4f8 I k ow what they mean as I've done a bit of research but in not sure of a solution. Any ideas on this and the brake pedal too. 

Did you use a seeley vacuum or pressure bleeder?, also what order did you bleed the calipers in?.

 

There are 2 bleed nipples on the master cylinder if you have introduced air into the system. How long were the calipers off the car, hours or days?, as the abs pump can get air trapped in it if the system is left to drain. which can be quite elusive to remove without something like VCDS to run the pump while you bleed the system. This is not usually a problem on short duration caliper changes though.

I used a sealey pressure bleeder and bled them in this order: 

n/s/r o/s/r n/s/f o/s/f and the pressure never dropped below 1 bar or 14psi as recommended. 

 

The calipers were taken off and sent away for refurbishment end of January and only put back on at weekend with 2 new front hel brake lines. Never got to do short rears. Also changed 2 banjo bolts. I took out about 450mm of old fluid and when it was coming out I saw all the air bubbles and old fluid and nipped off nipple when it was clear fluid through. The pressure was perfect and it all came out well. 

Edited 17 April, 20188 yr by octaviavrs170