How do you bleed abs pump and what do I need. 

Edited 17 April, 20188 yr by octaviavrs170

When the calipers were sent away, did you clamp off the flexible lines to the system until they returned, or did you let the fluid drain naturally?.

 

Not that it should prevent you getting a pedal, but the order of your bleeding is slightly out, The order is given here - https://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk1/chassis/brakes_hydraulics_regulator_servo/bleed_brake_system_vehicles_with_or_without_abs_or_abs/edl_mark_20_and_mark_60/bleeding_brake_system_with_brake_filling_and_bleeding_device_for_vehicles_with_abs_mark_60/

 

But it all depends if you kept the system airtight while the calipers were away, or you left the lines open to atmosphere really, as to what to suggest to you as your next course of action.

 

What model Sealey bleeder is it?, what was your start pressure on it?, (appreciate you did not let it drop, but start pressure has a relevance as well to be sure it was not on the high side).

Edited 17 April, 20188 yr by kentphil1

1 hour ago, octaviavrs170 said:

How do you bleed abs pump and what do I need. 

Sorry, missed the second post, ideally you would need something like VCDS to run the pump while you bleed the pump in the correct procedure

2 hours ago, kentphil1 said:

When the calipers were sent away, did you clamp off the flexible lines to the system until they returned, or did you let the fluid drain naturally?.

 

Not that it should prevent you getting a pedal, but the order of your bleeding is slightly out, The order is given here - https://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk1/chassis/brakes_hydraulics_regulator_servo/bleed_brake_system_vehicles_with_or_without_abs_or_abs/edl_mark_20_and_mark_60/bleeding_brake_system_with_brake_filling_and_bleeding_device_for_vehicles_with_abs_mark_60/

 

But it all depends if you kept the system airtight while the calipers were away, or you left the lines open to atmosphere really, as to what to suggest to you as your next course of action.

 

What model Sealey bleeder is it?, what was your start pressure on it?, (appreciate you did not let it drop, but start pressure has a relevance as well to be sure it was not on the high side).

Unfortunately not ken. All i did was black tape the ends of the flexi lines and tie wrap them upwards on the shocks to try to prevent any damage. Howeverthe car was outside in the elements for the duration. 

 

The brake bleeder is a sealey vs820 I believe and the start pressure was around 10psi at the most was 16psi

Edited 17 April, 20188 yr by octaviavrs170

You probably already know this, but brake fluid absorbs moisture in the air, so taping the ends without clamping the lines for a few weeks has probably contaminated the fluid in the lines. How I would deal with this would be to methodically get fluid in a reasonable condition at all 4 calipers, then I would re bleed using the order I posted on the link earlier.

 

If you are lucky, you may drag enough fluid through the ABS pump so as not to give you a problem. once you have bled the lines through I would bleed any last airlocks from the master cylinder bleed nipples (these are not touched normally).

 

For the future, whenever you open a brake line for whatever reason, you should always clamp the line or lines with a brake line clamp first. This stops capillary action taking place and giving you the issue that you have now.

 

You should be able to get a good pedal eventually, but you may use 2 or 3 times the fluid that you would normally use to bleed - possibly 2 to 3 litres to get rid of all the air, do not reuse any, regardless of how clean it may look. That bleeder is a good unit, I use one myself, just make sure the master cylinder seal sits airtight, as I have seen one that my neighbour was using that was assembled incorrectly from the factory - very easily sorted in 2 -3 minutes.

 

If you are patient and take your time, you should eventually get there, but it may take 3-4 hours if an air bubble has moved back down the line due to the unclamped line. Are you getting any pedal pressure at the moment or absolutely zero?.

 

Hope this helps, I feel your pain.

 

Sorry about the repeated answer, screen froze when I was answering and did not show the post as sent.

Edited 18 April, 20188 yr by kentphil1

19 hours ago, kentphil1 said:

You probably already know this, but brake fluid absorbs moisture in the air, so taping the ends without clamping the lines for a few weeks has probably contaminated the fluid in the lines. How I would deal with this would be to methodically get fluid in a reasonable condition at all 4 calipers, then I would re bleed using the order I posted on the link earlier.

 

If you are lucky, you may drag enough fluid through the ABS pump so as not to give you a problem. once you have bled the lines through I would bleed any last airlocks from the master cylinder bleed nipples (these are not touched normally).

 

For the future, whenever you open a brake line for whatever reason, you should always clamp the line or lines with a brake line clamp first. This stops capillary action taking place and giving you the issue that you have now.

 

You should be able to get a good pedal eventually, but you may use 2 or 3 times the fluid that you would normally use to bleed - possibly 2 to 3 litres to get rid of all the air, do not reuse any, regardless of how clean it may look. That bleeder is a good unit, I use one myself, just make sure the master cylinder seal sits airtight, as I have seen one that my neighbour was using that was assembled incorrectly from the factory - very easily sorted in 2 -3 minutes.

 

If you are patient and take your time, you should eventually get there, but it may take 3-4 hours if an air bubble has moved back down the line due to the unclamped line. Are you getting any pedal pressure at the moment or absolutely zero?.

 

Hope this helps, I feel your pain.

 

Sorry about the repeated answer, screen froze when I was answering and did not show the post as sent.

Im getting a slight pedal if i press it for a good 8 or 9 presses and it starts to go hard and bite but after 5 seconds if i press again it goes spongy and you can feel the air. It's annoying as hell

Edited 18 April, 20188 yr by octaviavrs170

Try using the correct sequence to bleed the brakes now, as to pump up the pedal you must have some fluid in the lines now. 1 - N/S/F, 2 - O/S/F, 3 -N/S/R, 4 - O/S/R.

 

When the car was awaiting caliper repairs, did the master cylinder reservoir empty at all or did it just drop low?.

19 hours ago, kentphil1 said:

Try using the correct sequence to bleed the brakes now, as to pump up the pedal you must have some fluid in the lines now. 1 - N/S/F, 2 - O/S/F, 3 -N/S/R, 4 - O/S/R.

 

When the car was awaiting caliper repairs, did the master cylinder reservoir empty at all or did it just drop low?.

No it never emptied at all. It had quite a bit of fluid left in it when I did bleed the brakes 

Anyway car is at mechanic today to get an mot and he will fit new handbrake and bleed brakes. Hopefully good news later on so fingers crossed. Car been off road for over 3 months now. 

Well car passed MOT with an initial failure but some advisories

Incorrect colour?  Did you black em out?

Edited 2 May, 20188 yr by Liverpool-Lad

20 hours ago, Liverpool-Lad said:

Incorrect colour?  Did you black em out?

No bud nothing like that I was very surprised it failed on that. Can't work that one out tbh

Edited 3 May, 20188 yr by octaviavrs170

On 15/04/2018 at 16:43, octaviavrs170 said:

These 3 pipes stick out and feel unsecured but im unsure whether they need to be pushed in. There is a slight travel on pipes. As if they need to be pushed in. Also what are they connected into

 

Cheers

Your advisory for 'Macpherson strut movement & creaky' could be that the upper bearing and rubber mount is in the early process of giving up (7 & 8 on diagram).

This has to support all the weight piled onto the outside wheel when cornering and be able to turn while doing so.

 

Not a job for an inexperienced home mechanic, coil spring compressors can be lethal if they slip under tension and space below the suspension turret is very limited.

 

Cool cheers for the reply. I already replaced bush 8 with a poly bush mount when I changed the suspension

Anyway quick question about the handbrake light coming on when driving. I've checked fluid and it's sweet. Should be as it all just been refurbed. Anyway is there a switch on handbrake that may be knackered. When i lift handbrake lever slightly the light and warning buzzer goes off. Any ideas?

Edited 6 May, 20188 yr by octaviavrs170

The handbrake switch should activate as soon as the handbrake is lifted to stop you driving away with the brakes on, that sounds like its working ok.

 

There is also the brake fluid cap float switch which activates when the fluid level drops and breaks the connection, if this switch stops working it will also activate the alarm (failsafe).

Wiggling the cap cable may be enough to prove it's dodgy or you're back to the good old 'swap-it-and-see' method of fault finding.

1J1 611 349 came up as a part number after a quick search.