5 hours ago, Wino said:

Sounds like you've proved that the track is OK between the break and the connector, but not sure whether you've proved that the track the other side of the break is OK.

 

What you want to do (using my picture with a 'pretend' track break in the red circle indicated by //) is put the probe that was on the connector pin 32 onto the side of the track break where I've put the black arrow, leaving the other probe in the same place next to the corner of the chip (where my red probe is in the picture).

 

 

 Okay so ive measured from red point to other red point and i got 00.3ohms

and I measured from blue point to other blue point and i got 00.3omhs , i also carried out a  continuity test from both points and the mutimeter beeped, so does this mean the track is only broken from where u have put the red ring ?

Yep. If you can reconnect across that gap it should be OK. 

Only question to solve then is why the track got so hot.

 

Are there any non-factory electrics that may have tapped into the loom wire going to pin 32?

Someone may have used it as an earth for something added in?

I'd be investigating that wire at the pump connector too. The track repair might just blow again if someone's bodged the wiring. I can't work out why someone's joined the yellow wire to a purple and black wire.

10 minutes ago, Wino said:

Yep. If you can reconnect across that gap it should be OK. 

Only question to solve then is why the track got so hot.

 

Are there any non-factory electrics that may have tapped into the loom wire going to pin 32?

Someone may have used it as an earth for something added in?

 

 

What would i need to reconnect it back together?

 

btw the track is not actually stuck on the green bored, does it need to be stuck on the green bored for me to do the repair?  

 

Im not too sure but only non factory electronics are hid’s and i have a aux wire coming from my standard stereo 

14 minutes ago, TMB said:

I'd be investigating that wire at the pump connector too. The track repair might just blow again if someone's bodged the wiring. I can't work out why someone's joined the yellow wire to a purple and black wire.

Thats what is confusing me too but i was planing to rejoin the wires with a spare plug which come with the pump but i thought I might cause more problems 

Looks like it's had the connector plug changed at some point but the wires do look correct as the purple and black wire is joined to the yellow in the right place. Are there any other joins in the rest of the connector plug wires?

If there are no other joints I reckon the insert at position 3 in the connector plug has been changed and someone's just used a second-hand insert with a random yellow wire and that's why it's like that. Not a problem if it's been done properly.

Edited 16 February, 20188 yr by TMB

Weli have no traced the wiring from the pump to the front of the car , but the wiring which is visible when i remove rear seats i cant see no joins other than the plug , would it make a difference if the wires were different size? As the yellow wire is alot thicker compare to the purple and black 

No, makes no difference at all that the yellow wire is thicker.

 

If there are no joins at the rear it must be just the insert has been changed which is OK.

To repair the track you really need a soldering iron, and a thin piece of copper wire to bridge the gap.  Amazon sell cheap kits of iron plus solder plus various other bits and pieces that you probably wouldn't need for this job, all for £12-15 type money. If there's a Maplin near you they may have something similar. It's a shame you're not closer as I'd happily do it for you. Fancy a road trip tomorrow?

 

It's not functionally essential that  the track is stuck down to the board, but better if it can't move around.

I'd be tempted to stick a bit of tape down on the board under where it runs, then lay the copper carefully down on that and another bit of tape to hold it there.

Or you could superglue it down in its original position but that will be an even more delicate operation I think.

 

If you can be without the car for a few days you'd be welcome to post it* to me, and I can post it back repaired .

 

* The cluster, not the car

Edited 16 February, 20188 yr by Wino

Hot melt glue would work to cover the track.

Yep.

Wino where about are you from? 

 

I will ask around tomorrow if any one is good with repairing the track with solidering iron ,if not Then i dont mind taking a long trip tbf as its abit anoying Not knowing how much fuel i have left so i alway carry a diesel can filled up in the boot just incase i do run out ,

 

Can the car be driven without the cluster as u mention that it has immobiliser info stored?if i can drive it without then i can post it to you .

 

thanks to TMB and Wino for all the help 

Close to Abingdon, Oxfordshire.

Car won't do anything without the cluster fitted, as far as I know.

Okayy so your about 110 miles away, ill try to find somebody local who can do that job , if not ill make a trip to you on the days your available if your okay with that?

No problem.

On 17/02/2018 at 17:55, Wino said:

No problem.

 

I managed to solder the track where it was broken , after soldiering i used multimeter for continuety test and and ohms test and i got a reading of 00.2 instead of 1.  i knew the track was fine , so i started the car the needle was still  3/4 and I thought maybe i need to drive so i drove around 25-30 miles and the needle is still at 3/4 tank, so the problem is still here 

 

There is a picture after track been repaired

Looks like a second break just before the terminal block. May have to jump that cable track full length.  Are new pcb’s not available?

Edited 19 February, 20188 yr by Mikek3111

Best thing would have been to bridge here with a thin piece of insulated wire...

 

3 hours ago, Mikek3111 said:

Looks like a second break just before the terminal block. May have to jump that cable track full length.  Are new pcb’s not available?

 

What is pcb’s?

2 hours ago, TMB said:

Best thing would have been to bridge here with a thin piece of insulated wire...

 

 

But if im getting a reading from the multimeter doesnt that mean the track is good and there is no break in the track ?

Repair looks OK, well done.  PCB is printed circuit board, i.e. the whole thing. For reasons already mentioned, that's an absolute last resort.

 

I'll have another look at my spare this evening, I never got round to following the circuit from the other pin (15, I think) to see how things work.  One thing you could do is to have a look at the soldering of the green connector pins on the other side of the board. These joints often do cause problems where the solder cracks away from the pins.

Can probably see enough without removing too much, just by lifting the edge of the plastic, like this:

 

 

Ignore the red-ringed pins, they are immobiliser related, you want to be looking at the ones at the other end. 15 is second in from the left, back row as we look here.

Edited 20 February, 20188 yr by Wino

12 hours ago, macc19 said:

 

But if im getting a reading from the multimeter doesnt that mean the track is good and there is no break in the track ?

 

If you are getting a reading then fair enough. I missed that part.

I have now worked out the circuit on the cluster PCB, but not sure how much it helps.  I'm hoping to get to my Polo's fuel pump/gauge connection tomorrow to measure some resistance/voltage numbers so that I can have a clearer picture of what should be measureable for a healthy system.  There are a couple of assumptions in my circuit picture, as far as the functions of the two micro-controller pins are written, but fairly safe ones I think.  Rail 269, 'sender earth' appears to connect to other senders within the engine bay, as well as the fuel gauge, so I'm not clear about how the track on the board connected to this has got burnt, without affecting other sensors.

 

Anyway, here's the input circuit as far as I can tell. A transistor is switched by the microcontroller to apply a (fixed) voltage to the top of a 205 Ohm resistor which forms a potential divider with the gauge sender resistance. The voltage at the midpoint of this divider goes from pin 15 via a 39K resistor to a pin of the microcontroller which will digitise the analogue voltage and then use the number to drive the motor/gauge needle as appropriate. Pin 31 of the green connector goes off to the ambient temperature sensor, so if that appears to be reading correctly, it may be a clue that the voltage coming from the transistor is still OK. It would be useful to check that there is continuity between the loom wire that goes to pin 32 of the green connector (from which the burnt out track comes), and pin 2 at the fuel pump connector (brown/white in both cases).

 

Sorry for late reply , but unfortunately the car is not here with me to do the checks anymore as some idiot have hit the car so badly that it is now written off (im unhurt), i am gutted as it was the cleanest example ive owned ,thanks so very much for the help and hard work , much appreciated