How do I do it? Haven't been able to find anything online and it isn't jumping out at me with the bonnet lifted. I noticed a couple of little metal clips in the harness that seem to be holding it in, but lifting that out would just remove all 4 coils at once and thats not useful for what I need. 

Edited 21 March, 20188 yr by wheels94

Use an Ignition Coil Removal tool.  

 

You can make one, or use long / strong zip ties, but then you need to know how to.

 

 

There are 4 separate coils, un-clip each from the wires first, 

there are threads with pictures....     Take care what you are doing.

 

?

What are you doing changing spark plugs?

Best mover breather pipes as well, and the turbo pipe.

Edited 21 March, 20188 yr by AwaoffSki

Here.

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/328108-removing-ignition-coils 

 

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/392456-spark-plug-question 

 

Sorry only pics i have, poor ones off that thread.

Home made Coil Remover.

Edited 21 March, 20188 yr by AwaoffSki

10 minutes ago, AwaoffSki said:

Use an Ignition Coil Removal tool.  

 

You can make one, or use long / strong zip ties, but then you need to know how to.

 

 

There are 4 separate coils, un-clip each from the wires first, 

there are threads with pictures....     Take care what you are doing.

 

?

What are you doing changing spark plugs?

Best mover breather pipes as well, and the turbo pipe.

Looking to diagnose the rough idle at 1100 rpm, is fine when under normal power and at 800 rpm after the car starts, but it's rough as guts when I turn the car on, until it drops itself to that 800rpm. Think the plugs are to blame, especially as I had them replaced during a service and it got progressively worse after that service.

Had a look through that thread, doesn't seem like Awesome GTI sells the tool anymore, will give the strong zip ties a go. Is it just a case of looping them under each coil and pulling hard?

Also, for reference, heres a video. That violent engine movement can be felt very much throughout the car.

 

Tool suppliers sell Ignition Coil Removers.

They are in Kits for different models, but the VW ones are common.

 

 

Don't give the Zip ties a try.   Too easy to get wrong. Make a hash of it. 

 

Do not experiment.

You need the 4 spark plugs out.

Checked / Replaced.

 

What is your car a CAVE or CTHE.   Are there any fault codes logged.

When were the plugs last changed?    Has it had a Software Update.

Is the Air Filter OK. 

 

If a Spark Plug is bad then a coil can go bad quickly.  But first check plugs.

Edited 21 March, 20188 yr by AwaoffSki

Re 1,100 rpm, and then drop to 800 rpm withing 40 seconds that is as should be.

Rough is not, but hot airboxes can have that happen.

 

But then there is normal and then very rough.   So how many km has it done and what is the history, service history.

 

EDIT, 

i see 2013 now, 

so a CTHE .

Edited 21 March, 20188 yr by AwaoffSki

Will check local tool suppliers tomorrow.

Is actually a CAVE, which is odd because I bought it advertised as MY13... 
Plugs last changed ~13000km ago, not sure Re: Software Update

Air filter probably needs to be replaced in all honesty. As for hot airbox, it occurs at 1100rpm 3 hours into a drive and on starting the car in the morning.

Serviced at 15k km, 30k km, 45k km. 65k km and soon again at 80k km. Still have the old plugs if a picture would help?

 

New plugs ordered. SKJ20CR-A8

Had a look at the air filter maybe 6 months ago, didn't seem terrible but then I'll be honest, not really sure what to look for.

Only ever 98, to the point of being a bit pedantic about it.


 

When looking just look for clean with an air filter.  All you can do.

Check the pre-set gap before fitting the plugs.  0.8mm for all of them.

Maybe 0.7mm now, but as long as all the same.

 

98 is good.

No 98 in the UK just 95, 97 or 99.

http://volkswagen.co.uk/need-help/owners/Fuel 

Get the draper ignition coil pack removal tool - part number 23254 find it at amazon, makes it very easy to do.