Hi all felicia members i borrow timing light MT241A from my friend and it have engine degrees advanced as it shown on the picture so what degree should i set and what degree should be right in the motor i read when rotate the distrbutor

You must set the timing tool to 2 degrees for checking the timing at idle (800 rpm).

Rotate the distributor until the sign on the crankshaft pulley is stationary.

what reading must i see with the lighting tool at 800 rpm idle at crankshaft pulley

should reading at 800 rpm idle be like this

No. The arrow shows 5 degrees advance. The book says 2 degrees.

sorry man for my many question this green reading should be i see  or not

i set the timing light as you mention as shown is it right

Yes.

Yes.

how about the other reading at diffrent rpm its important to test or not

Yes, to have an idea if the distributor is working well.

know its clear to me the test in idle state 1- disconnect vacuum advanced from distributor 2- wait until the engine become in its operating temperature 3- connect the timing light throw cylinder number 1  wire 

4- at 800 rpm idle and the degree of advanced device at 2 rotate the distrbutor until i get reading +2 before Tdc crankshaft pulley

but the second test in different rpm not clear to me as the picture in manual could you please tell me what readings  in  1500 and 2000 and 3000 and 4200 rpm should be shown on crankshaft pulley

the second thing does it need to move the engine degree advance on my lighting device in every rpm or make it at 2 like idle state

On cars without an engine computer, the curve for ignition advance is not super precise. It is allowed to have a slight variation (an interval of ign. advance values) or a tolerance if you want. That is because not two distributors are identical, parts get worn, timing chain gets slack, etc. Not to mention there is no crankshaft sensor.

 

So, the method is this:

Set engine speed to 1500 rpm. Point MT241A to crankshaft pulley. Rotate the dial of MT241A until the marker on the pulley is stationary. The value on the dial should be between 2.5 degrees and 10.5 degrees.

 

Do. the same for each engine speed.

man i tried as settings you give to me set timing tool at 2 i found the timing was on 25 so  rotate distributor clock wise until it become on the green mark that i draw on photo above and resetting idle at 800 rpm and co needle from carburateur  but many things happened that i was not expected the car fail to start correct at cold start that was not happen before second i try test drive the car  when pressing the gas pedal on the third gear or second there was a lag in response of the engine and suddenly become very good response after seconds i picked my vacuum gauge i found it marks about 14 to 15 inhg mercury  i know that according to our felicia its low vacuum i dont what is messing in this progress any advices

thanks

3 hours ago, captain_crunch said:

i picked my vacuum gauge i found it marks about 14 to 15 inhg mercury

This is enough reason for all problems you have described.

No correct vacuum, nothing will work properly.

Edited 3 April, 20188 yr by RicardoM

yes that is right but my  carburateur  have no vacuum leaks i changed about months ago every gaskets and pipes  also change the base of the carburateur to metal vika that come with bad cheap gasket that i changed it too

i doubt of three things 

first that there was  leakage in head gasket because there is white smoke in ""cold start time"" but it disappear after minutes move with car but there is no decrease in coolant level no oil mix water + the car reach about 130km/h

second the adjustment of valves in intake and exhaust not correct i know that 135 engine take 0.20 mm but i didnt ever make with my self i let my mechanic do that job so if not true can do this issue

third the mt241A lighting tool degrees isnt correct as its shown 

at all i rotate the distributor anti clockwise back it to old place that i marked before i do this  operation

results was the car sucess to start at cold start from the first time

no lag with gas pedal

the vaucum gauge give me about 18 inhg of mercury

i am confused where is the problem

i need your consultation because you have big experience in felicia issues and i am one of the people have learned many things from your posts

thanks

 

There are many things to say about your experiment with the timing gun. I will make a list of questions and observations. Try to answer to them or comment if possible.

1. Why did you feel the need to play with the ignition timing?
2. How sure are you that the timing gun is well calibrated?
3. Show us 2 photos of the position of distributor seen from the top. One before using the timing gun, one after setting the ignition timing with the timing gun. Make sure that the timing belt is shown in each photo to have a visual reference.
4. Ignition timing is set only after you are 100% sure the carburettor works well. Do you trust your carburettor ? Why?
5. Ignition timing is set only after the valves clearance is properly set.
6. Ignition timing at idle is set only after the engine has reached optimum temperature (90 C). Also you have to disconnect the vacuum line from distributor.
7. Ignition timing at idle is set only after you know the distributor works perfect. Do you trust your distributor? Why?
8. How did you check there are no vacuum leaks?

its long time to talk about this problem but i adjust 135 engine intake and exaust valve to 0.20 mm and the problem still exist

1- to be sure that i take best performance and take every hourse power with complete iginition

2- i test the device on my  mitsubishi  lancer cs3 and it read 10 degree as it should be in manual

3- didnt take photos yet

4- i trust the carburtor i make the service with my hands and change all the gaskets no vaccum leaks + vaccum gauge read from 18 inch of mercury to 20

5- do you mean exaust and intake valves

6- yes i do

7- my distrbutor is the orginal one that came with car from 20 years

8- with vacum gauge

 

OK, we are getting closer. I have a few more questions and some advice.

 

How started the problem (low power)? It is very important to know this because we may relate the problem with some other event.

 

How severe is the loss of power? What maximum speed you get without passengers or luggage?

 

Now, let's talk about engine diagnose. The vacuum gauge is the main old school tool. I have uploaded an illustration that shows how to interpret the readings.

https://i.imgur.com/OHyVySA.jpg

The timing gun. Use it not only for measuring the ignition timing at idle but to measure the entire timing graph. See below.

Centrifugal advance (measure with vacuum port of distributor open)

https://i.imgur.com/qruk4Li.jpg

Vacuum advance (measure at idle speed using a manual vacuum pump with gauge)

https://i.imgur.com/uqJPYM7.jpg

 

If we talk about loss of power, the most important causes are:

• low compression (bad piston rings, bad head gasket, bad valves)
• restricted exhaust (collapsed exhaust silencers, foreign objects)
• bad timing (worn or faulty distributor)
• bad fuel delivery (weak fuel pump, carburetor not set correctly)
• bad ignition (faulty distributor, wires, spark plugs)
• restricted air supply (old fuel filter, foreign objects)

You'll have to test each one of them.

thanks ricardo for fast replay

1- i will record a video what reading that i get from vacuum gauge at idle + when i press throttle i think it will make many things cleared for us

2- second the maximum speed i get without passengers or luggage about 130km/h but before it was reach 140km/h may be because of old clutsh

 

 

 

 

here is results what i get from vaccum gauge on idle state and throttle state

https://streamable.com/tuvzo

https://streamable.com/5aqyq

 

 

 

On 07/10/2018 at 03:09, captain_crunch said:

the maximum speed i get without passengers or luggage about 130km/h but before it was reach 140km/h may be because of old clutsh

The maximum speed you get is not very far from top maximum speed indicated by Skoda. Mentioning (so late) a possible slipping clutch makes things clear.

5 hours ago, RicardoM said:

The maximum speed you get is not very far from top maximum speed indicated by Skoda. Mentioning (so late) a possible slipping clutch makes things clear.

how about vaccum guage readings is it ok

The vacuum readings (needle jumping) show that valves don't seal properly (worn valve guides) or some valve springs are faulty or haven't been installed properly. See video below.

 

Check again valve clearance on all cylinders. If OK, you will have to remove the cylinder head, assess the status of the valves then post your findings and we will advice for the best solution.

Edited 8 October, 20187 yr by RicardoM