I also think the lock hook make trouble, but if I can swing the door better out, its may be more easy to take the inner panel off?

 

The handle is ok, but the central lock is on, and the wire is on. I think it is the micro switch?

lite this:

 

That particular microswitch only tells the car that the door is opened or closed. In failure mode it doesn't affect actual locking/unlocking apart from causing the doors to lock themselves after 30 seconds regardless of drivers door still being open or if the ignition key is not inserted within 30 seconds of unlocking the car. The doors can still be opened again with key or remote buttons. It wouldn't give the symptom of locking one door. Other symptoms of that particular switch failing are interior light not coming on when drivers door is opened, and lights-on warning sound not working with lights on and door open (ignition off). It also causes the boot lid to remain locked unless a door with a properly functioning microswitch is opened first.

 

There are other microswitches inside the lock that do control the rest of it. Numbers 1 to 4 here...

 

Edited 22 April, 20188 yr by TMB

I think you might end up having to remove the door card and ancillaries carrier in situ and then cut the lock module open and manually turn the cogs.

Thanks! What a job! ? It can't be the main lock switsh i front door on driver side? A connector loose?

 

The contact in B pillar looks good...

Edited 22 April, 20188 yr by Torbo

To day I make an new warning light for main beam. A 3 mm blue LED connecter to two Zenerdiodes on 5 volt X 2, to take avay 10 volt. In eerie  I also put a resistor on 1000 Ohm so the Led warning light is glowing a little on 12,5 volt an a little more at 14,5 volt. (effect: 0,0006 W) I will put the little light right under the instrument. 

 

But the rear door is worse... 

Oh it's a rear door?

 

Take a look at this video...

 

 

15 hours ago, Torbo said:

To day I make an new warning light for main beam. A 3 mm blue LED connecter to two Zenerdiodes on 5 volt X 2, to take avay 10 volt. In eerie  I also put a resistor on 1000 Ohm so the Led warning light is glowing a little on 12,5 volt an a little more at 14,5 volt. (effect: 0,0006 W) I will put the little light right under the instrument. 

 

But the rear door is worse... 

 

11 hours ago, TMB said:

Oh it's a rear door?

 

Take a look at this video...

 

 

Thanks! I did not understand whats wrong? 

  

Faulty lock unit I think. Looked like it burst into life due to him messing with the door parts. Anyway, at least you know it's possible to get the door apart in situ.

Well, I got some light on the dashboard. The little indicator will work for me, and for EU-control, I think. 

Changed the steering sensor and -pump. Not necessary to remove the bumper! Easy...

4 wheel bearing pads, tube and so on. 

Now the car is like new

 

The steering is smooth fast and good! 100 %