Hi , i have recently bought a skoda fabia vrs mk1 , its started to develop a problem starting in the morning where i am finding myself cranking it over for atleast 10 or 15 seconds, i have tried to give it a few heats (letting the plug light go out a few times before turning it over) which sometimes helps but not always, ive been told perhaps change of battery or the glow plugs are shot? Any ideas ? 

It could even be as simple as the ECT sensor, it almost certainly needs replacing if it hasn't been done recently.

Ive changed that only last week along with the service i did on it. its fine once its started, i cant turn it off and back on again and no problems at all

Also ive noticed that the plug light only briefly flashes on and off again? 

Not been on for a while , but does the coolant temp sensor have something to do with cold starts?

2 pin blue I think on these?

Not been on for a while so may be one to check

Sarah

25 minutes ago, Bez1989 said:

Also ive noticed that the plug light only briefly flashes on and off again? 

 

Surely that’s enough for you to check these are working properly? Simple enough to do and is free! 

Edited 12 April, 20188 yr by jars
Fat fingers!

Would a fault code check come up with anything? 

If you've just serviced it you need to check that you don't have an air leak in one of the fuel lines allowing fuel to drain back to the filter bowl, that can cause excessive cranking before a start after the car's been stood.

1 minute ago, sepulchrave said:

If you've just serviced it you need to check that you don't have an air leak in one of the fuel lines allowing fuel to drain back to the filter bowl, that can cause excessive cranking before a start after the car's been stood.

 

Sounds like a fuel issue to me too. 

 

Also a good idea to check all the fuel lines on top of the engine and on the tandem pump as well as the fuel filter connections and housing assembly.

  @Bez1989 - The glowplug light on all these VAG 1.9D engines only illuminates briefly, because they inject directly into the combustion chamber and not into a pre-chamber, so need much less heating.

 

As to checking the plugs themselves, you need to do a resistance test, and you've actually got a minute or so to work after the light first comes on.

Thanks for the feed back guys, i am gonna test the plugs and check for leaks in the fuel lines over the weekend so il post if i have any luck solving the problem or not 

 

Edited 13 April, 20188 yr by Bez1989

 I think i may have found the culprit

Edited 13 April, 20188 yr by Bez1989

@Bez1989 - That seems very possible!

1 hour ago, Bez1989 said:

 I think i may have found the culprit

That looks like a vacuum line to me

It's the brake servo pipe.

Right, i have a little update - i had the car plugged in to vagscom and the fault codes showing was temp sensor ( which i replaced ) and misfire on cylinder 2.. i have ordered the part to change the loom in the hope that it may cure the problem but im in need for some advise as to whether the loom will cause the hard starting or could possibly be the injector seals / injector at fault? Thanks for any feed back in advance

Unlikely to be an injector fault since that would generate a different fault code, loom issue could cause hard starting but there is a fuel temperature sensor as well that could be the culprit.

I changed the temp sensor when i serviced it around 2 weeks ago , the part was from euro cart parts so could be a dud but it seems to get up to temp ok and stays at 90, i have also noticed today what looks like a small leak around the bottom of the tandem pump so when i have it to bits over the weekend il be able to get a better look , ive also put jubilee clips on the fuel filter pipes to try and rule an air leak out from there, but other than that im completely lost on it

7 hours ago, sepulchrave said:

...there is a fuel temperature sensor as well that could be the culprit.

 

Please re-read my post, I got that you replaced the ECT sensor.

@Bez1989 - The gauge and EMS water temperature come from separate channels on the same sensor, so correct temperature on the fascia does not prove correct temperature to the EMS.

@KenONeill

No Ken, they don't.  Two wire temp sensor on all mk1 Fabias. Engine ECU does the reading, CAN tells all other interested modules the results.

Another update as the car is now fixed and running fine, turns out it was the lift pump was at fault and not holding pressure causing fuel to run back to the tank.. thought id post and let you all know and for anyone with the same symptoms , hopefully this thread will help.. after i changed the pump i had a  fault code removed and since then it starts like a dream. Cheers for your help fellas.. (il post a picture of the fault code for anyone that wants to see it.