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New Fabia owner - VCDS Errors

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Hi Guys,

 

Picked up a 2006 Skoda Fabia Classic 1.2  16v this morning for the misses. It is in good condition with 58K miles on the clock. 

 

Got it home and gave it a good scan on the ole VCDS :) Mostly looks good however got couple of errors one in ABS block which I don't seem to understand?

 

I cleared the errors but the ABS issue returned. I looked up the info on Ross Tech but they make sense to me? I am getting various feedbacks about wires being an issue or MAF?!?!

 

Any advice guys?

 


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes        Labels: 6R0-907-37x-ABS80.clb
   Part No SW: 6Q0 907 379 AF    HW: 6Q0 907 379 AF
   Component: ABS 8.0 front   H04 0002  
   Revision: 00000000    Serial number: 00000000000000
   Coding: 0002061
   Shop #: WSC 13765 000 00000
   VCID: 010800DF5BD6AC4C28-5142

2 Faults Found:
01314 - Engine Control Module 
            013 - Check DTC Memory - Intermittent
18265 - Load Signal 
            P1857 - 000 - Error Message from ECU - Intermittent

And a Full scan ..... 

Saturday,19,May,2018,22:49:22:57254
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator Running on Windows 10 x64
VCDS Version: 18.2.1.2 (x64)
Data version: 20180518 DS287.1
www.Ross-Tech.com


VIN: TMBPY46Y264553861   License Plate: 


Chassis Type: 6Y (6Y - Skoda Fabia (1996 > 2008))
Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 15 17 19 25 37 44 46 55 56 76
 
VIN: TMBPY46Y264553861   Mileage: 94040km-58433miles
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine        Labels: 03E-906-033-AZQ.lbl
   Part No: 03E 906 033 AN
   Component: 1,2l/4V SIMOS3  00HS7003  
   Coding: 00071
   Shop #: WSC 13765  
   VCID: 6CD6416B1C545124EB-5124
   TMBPY46Y264553861     SKZ7Z0E3364931

No fault code found.
Readiness: 0000 0000

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes        Labels: 6R0-907-37x-ABS80.clb
   Part No SW: 6Q0 907 379 AF    HW: 6Q0 907 379 AF
   Component: ABS 8.0 front   H04 0002  
   Revision: 00000000    Serial number: 00000000000000
   Coding: 0002061
   Shop #: WSC 13765 000 00000
   VCID: 010800DF5BD6AC4C28-5142

2 Faults Found:
01314 - Engine Control Module 
            013 - Check DTC Memory - Intermittent
18265 - Load Signal 
            P1857 - 000 - Error Message from ECU - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 08: Auto HVAC        Labels: 6Q0-820-045.lbl
   Part No: 6Y0 820 045 
   Component: Klimaanlage        X0840  
   VCID: 72EA5F133E7087D421-5142

2 Faults Found:
01596 - Motor for Outside/Recirculated Air Flap (V154) 
            30-00 - Open or Short to Plus
00819 - High Pressure Sensor (G65) 
            07-00 - Signal too Low

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 09: Cent. Elect.        Labels:. 6Qx-937-049-C.lbl
   Part No: 6Q1 937 049 D
   Component: 0000 BN-SG.         1S34  
   Coding: 25610
   Shop #: WSC 13765  
   VCID: 3C76B12B2CB401A43B-5142

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags        Labels: 6Q0-909-605-VW5.lbl
   Part No: 1C0 909 601 A
   Component: 11 AIRBAG VW51      0009  
   Coding: 12593
   Shop #: WSC 13765  
   VCID: 1E325BA39A6873B435-5142

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments        Labels: 6Y0-920-xx0-17.lbl
   Part No: 6Y0 920 981 M
   Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRSP VDO V02  
   Coding: 00401
   Shop #: WSC 13765  
   VCID: 4998D8FF7366A40CB0-5142
   TMBPY46Y264553861     SKZ7Z0E3364931

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 19: CAN Gateway        Labels: 6N0-909-901-19.lbl
   Part No: 6N0 909 901 
   Component: 003D GATEWAY CAN    1S34  
   Coding: 00014
   Shop #: WSC 13765  
   VCID: 70EE551B307CB5C4D7-5142

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 44: Steering Assist        Labels: 6Q0-423-156.clb
   Part No: 6Q0 423 156 AB
   Component: LenkhilfeTRW        V270  
   Coding: 10140
   Shop #: WSC 13765  
   VCID: 6FEC56672D42AA3CCE-5142

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 46: Central Conv.        Labels:. 6Q0-959-433.clb
   Part No: 6Q0 959 433 E
   Component: 2X Komfortgerát     0002  
   Coding: 00019
   Shop #: WSC 13765  
   VCID: 3D70BC2F37AE08AC0C-4AE8

No fault code found.

End-------------------------(Elapsed Time: 03:05)--------------------------

 

Edited by singh946

Is it a 1.2 12V or a 1.4 16V? It can't be a 1.2 16V.

 

The ECU is coded the same as my 1.4 16V, 00071, I would imagine the soft-coding needs to be different if it's a 1.2 12V, this may be the source of the 01314 fault code and therefore the root of your problem.

 

 

  • Author
4 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

Is it a 1.2 12V or a 1.4 16V? It can't be a 1.2 16V.

 

The ECU is coded the same as my 1.4 16V, 00071, I would imagine the soft-coding needs to be different if it's a 1.2 12V, this may be the source of the 01314 fault code and therefore the root of your problem.

 

 

 

I apologies for the typo its the 1.2 12V BME engine :D 

 

What do you mean by the soft coding?

Edited by singh946

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For the load signal fault check the brown wire coning from the alternator at a plug/socket connection on the front of the gearbox.. If your battery light isn't coming on when you switch on the ignition, you should check the blue wire at the same two-way connection while you're at it.

 

Aircon low on gas can be all that the G65 sensor error is indicating.

 

Recirculation flap error is ultra-common and not worth fixing unless you drive slowly past a pig farm every day.

 

Our 1.2/12v has the same 00071 coding, so I don't think that's an issue.

  • Author
8 hours ago, Wino said:

For the load signal fault check the brown wire coning from the alternator at a plug/socket connection on the front of the gearbox.. If your battery light isn't coming on when you switch on the ignition, you should check the blue wire at the same two-way connection while you're at it.

 

Aircon low on gas can be all that the G65 sensor error is indicating.

 

Recirculation flap error is ultra-common and not worth fixing unless you drive slowly past a pig farm every day.

 

Our 1.2/12v has the same 00071 coding, so I don't think that's an issue.

 

@Wino Mate you were correct about the connector in front of the gearbox. Seems like somebody has had a go on fixing it look at the pics.

20180520_151445.jpg

 

20180520_151441.jpg

 

20180520_151414.jpg

 

20180520_150103.jpg

 

You can see a black wire has been patched into the wiring harness. Can you advice me if this has been done to fool a sensor? Id like to fix it. 

 

You can see the plug has been botched up in brown tape.

 

20180520_151428.jpg

Edited by singh946

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Hi, going to come back to this tomorrow. Friend's birthday, barbeque, wine...

  • Author
5 minutes ago, Wino said:

Hi, going to come back to this tomorrow. Friend's birthday, barbeque, wine...

 

No worries buddy...enjoy the party :)

  • Author

Well more issues found. I thought I would remove the lower engine splash cover to locate the actual load signal wire and found coolant to be leaking from underneath. The dreading radiator leak :( Had exact same issue in my old Polo GTI 9n3 years ago. Radiator was leaking and they had to change the radiator but that was done within warranty. I hope the replacement wont be expensive :( 

 

20180520_215742.jpg

 

20180520_215747.jpg

 

Anyways looked a bit further to find the load signal wire and this was the sensor that was butchered which looks like goes

into the gearbox. I also looked around and couldn't see any broken wires etc? Could it be that this sensor is a gonner?

 

20180520_215442.jpg%22%20alt=%2220180520

 

Also found this oily spot near the inner drive shaft.  I don't see any leaks or cracks on the gaiter.  May be its an old leak?

 

20180520_215212.jpg

 

20180520_215212.jpg

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That's your reverse light sensor, another common spot for wire breakage, looks to have been repaired robustly.

In the third photo you can just see the brown connector pair for the aircon N280 valve. Load signal connector pair is on the same bracket (top connector on the 1.2, if it's like ours).

 

Looks like a slight leak on the differential drive flange seal, ignore for now if it passes MOT. Bit of a faff to swap seal, but that is the easier side if you need to.

 

For the coolant leak, check that isn't coming from the radiator thermoswitch, rather than the radiator structure. Much cheaper (free) fix by just tightening the thermoswitch a tad. I suspect a lot of radiators are unnecessarily scrapped because of failure to spot this.

 

Ignore the first two images if I haven't deleted them when you read this. Struggling with my tablet. Red arrow points to alternator connection hidden behind coolant pipe in this angle.

 

 

20150823_154544.jpg

Edited by Wino

  • Author

Thanks @Wino for the reply. Differential Seal flip hope I haven't bought a lemon and more hidden issues underneath. I checked everything before buying apart from checking underneath. Somehow didn't need the feel as the seller seemed genuine. Think he didn't know himself I guess!! Should I get that changed asap? MOT is only due in August. 

 

Also I shall check radiator thermostat to make sure the leak is from there. Fingers crossed its from there :o :D anyways in regards to the original issue of the load signal wire. I had a good feel of the wires on the connector above the red / brown connector. May be I didn't check properly as I was too distressed after finding a leaky radiator and then flange seal also. Will do another check this evening. :) 

Edited by singh946

  • Author

@Wino sorry my last reply missed out my actual reply :D edited now ;) 

  • Author

20180521_102814.jpg


Here is another picture i took yesterday. So as per your last reply the connector is the one circled in yellow with an arrow? I didn't notice any breaks on that connector. Should i trace the wire and see any breakages?

 

Also one thing to note am not getting any ABS light coming on as the usual symptom which comes up after 10 mins of drive?

Edited by singh946

  • Author

Well another update on the quotation I got this morning. So Radiator replacement is going to be  £276.00 including fresh coolant :o dear god i didn't expect it to be so much. And then differential drive shaft seal replacement is going to be £143 plus the gearbox oil. That is a big bill for the wallet. I am hoping the leak is from the radiator thermostat otherwise that will be a great knock on the repair bills. :( 

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1 hour ago, singh946 said:

So as per your last reply the connector is the one circled in yellow with an arrow?

 

Yeah, I think so. Blue and brown wires coming from the alternator two-way connector to one half of the connector pair, blue and green/purple coming out of the mating half.

 

TBH, I wouldn't worry too much about the (18265) load signal error that the ABS is referencing (the 01314)  across to the engine ECU, I presume you have no warning lights on? Not convinced the DFM/load signal is used for much on the petrol Fabias.  Does the battery light come on with ignition? If so, the blue wire is intact, and that one is more important.

  • Author
1 minute ago, Wino said:

 

Yeah, I think so. Blue and brown wires coming from the alternator two-way connector to one half of the connector pair, blue and green/purple coming out of the mating half.

 

TBH, I wouldn't worry too much about the (18265) load signal error that the ABS is referencing (the 01314)  across to the engine ECU, I presume you have no warning lights on? Not convinced the DFM/load signal is used for much on the petrol Fabias.  Does the battery light come on with ignition? If so, the blue wire is intact, and that one is more important.

 

Yes buddy battery light is definitely coming on start. I shall have another look at the brown wire to make sure no breakages. 

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3 minutes ago, singh946 said:

I am hoping the leak is from the radiator thermostat

 

Thermoswitch rather than thermostat, though that's just terminology.  Just above the radiator bottom hose connection, need to get that undertray off to see well.

  • Author

Anybody used https://www.clickmechanic.com before to book a repair job? Seems to be having good reviews and the cost of replacing the diff seal and radiator is coming upto £283.74 which is the cheapest am getting so far. 

  • Author
25 minutes ago, Wino said:

 

Thermoswitch rather than thermostat, though that's just terminology.  Just above the radiator bottom hose connection, need to get that undertray off to see well.

 

@Wino so is this the switch which goes on the side of the radiator? Can it be tightened from inside of the engine bay? i.e. if it is the problem?

 

thumb?m=1&id=8177754&lng=en

Edited by singh946

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Yes. Deep 29mm socket can just reach with loom connector unplugged. I've done 3 cars this way. 30Nm is the specified torque.

29 or maybe even 30mm (more commonly available, probably) ring spanner would probably also work, but it's an area busy with wiring, hoses and stuff, so be careful not to cause any damage to anything else if you have a go yourself.

 

Edited by Wino

10 minutes ago, singh946 said:

Anybody used https://www.clickmechanic.com before to book a repair job? Seems to be having good reviews and the cost of replacing the diff seal and radiator is coming upto £283.74 which is the cheapest am getting so far. 

 

I wouldn't worry about the diff seal, that amount of seepage may look like a lot but it's actually a tiny amount extrapolated over the lifetime of the car, no seal is completely oil tight and it may be due to fractional run-out in the CV joint rather than the seal itself. I'd ignore it unless it gets much worse.

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19 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

I've had this code 18265 before on my 1.4 and it has nothing to do with the alternator load sense wire

 

Ah, engine load via a suspect MAP sensor reading then, maybe; rather than alternator load. Good info.

 

Completely agree on the diff seal too.

  • Author
6 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

 

I wouldn't worry about the diff seal, that amount of seepage may look like a lot but it's actually a tiny amount extrapolated over the lifetime of the car, no seal is completely oil tight and it may be due to fractional run-out in the CV joint rather than the seal itself. I'd ignore it unless it gets much worse.

 

Phew so can ignore on the diff seal :) I will give it a good clean around the area with a brake cleaner and then monitor the leak to see if it gets worst.  

 

3 minutes ago, Wino said:

 

Ah, engine load via a suspect MAP sensor reading then, maybe; rather than alternator load. Good info.

 

Completely agree on the diff seal too.

 

ok cool so would you say its due to a bad MAF / MAP sensor? I can perhaps eliminate that with a reading on VCDS of the trim levels. 

 

 

 

 

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3 minutes ago, singh946 said:

ok cool so would you say its due to a bad MAF / MAP sensor?

 

You seem a bit over-keen to spend money. It's noted as intermittent, and only by the ABS ECU, not the engine ECU itself, so no current fault. Ignore for the time being. No MAF sensor on these, just MAP.

  • Author
Just now, Wino said:

 

You seem a bit over-keen to spend money. It's noted as intermittent, and only by the ABS ECU, not the engine ECU itself, so no current fault. Ignore for the time being. No MAF sensor on these, just MAP.

 

Sorry mate I do indeed don't I? :D Being a car fanatic I want to make sure the car is fine and healthy but at the same time keep costs down which doesn't really work very which am sure you would agree haha 

 

Car does run fine by the idles are at times jumpy when am sitting at the lights. Noticed it on Saturday night after I bought the car. Had the same issue with in my 9n3 polo gti and it ended up being the MAF sensor first and then a coil pack. 

 

Also the Car doesn't have any service history so its getting a new lease of life on weekend with fresh oil etc. Going to do the service myself. 

 

So without me panicking much more am going to check the leak this evening properly and see the exact source. Am really hoping its the thermostat on the radiator. 

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