Hi and first time post, after son bought a nice Flamenco Red 1.4. 

 

Has the notorious rear rear door deadlocked issue. I’ve read posts on this, but not seen a mention of single torx screw at bottom of door. There is no access to this as it sits in a recess! How do people get a tool onto this screw? It’s baffling me and I’ve worked on cars for years. 

 

Thanks for advice. 

Edited 22 May, 20188 yr by Stratfordade

Perhaps a star or torx bit, attached to an extension bar and screwdriver that uses interchangeable bits?

Thanks but the photo I posted is deceiving, as it’s looking up at the recess. I have necessary bits, but the position of screw head in recess makes it impossible to get a bit square on to the head, and there’s no room in the tiny recess for a ratchet head or similar. If anyone here has a look at base of rear door they’ll see what I mean, unless I’m being very stupid!

Haynes manual just states, "Undo the retaining screw at the lower edge of the rim panel". The photo just shows an arrow pointing to where you seem to be looking in your photo. I then took a look at my own vehicle and although I only had a screwdriver to hand, that would access it easily enough so to conclude, you need the correct tip to fit the hole, torx bit etc and a straight screwdriver handle to unscrew it.  You would approach the fixing with the tool running parallel to the floor, if that helps. (Right angle to the door). I will grab a set of assorted bits in a -well, bit, and try seeing what the proper size is.

Thanks I picked up some Torx keys so one of them should work — my socket torx bits were creating an angle, so as you say straight on should work. The screw head is right at top of aperture.

Hi, I just took out my torx set and its size 15 that fits. Although I said at a right angle, it is actually just a little lower then that so you angle very slightly up. I loosened both rear doors and tightened again, then tried on the front and they all worked satisfactorily so you should have no trouble with the correct bit. Mine were from a Bosch drill bit and screwdriver bit set which has small tips that fit into the bit holder, that then fits into either a relevant  screwdriver handle or cordless drill, etc. Hope this helps.

Thanks mrgf. I picked up set of Torx keys and the correct size worked fine. They’re very thin so create good angle to the head right at top of aperture, and are ball ended so work ok at slight angle. 

 

Now I can tackle the notorious ‘deadlocked rear door syndrome’!

What happens when you get the deadlock, anyway? Not had that happen although I know you can activate the child safety locks.

Hope and pray! There are a few posts here where people managed to destroy/smash lock and so release door allowing old lock to be unbolted.

 

if that doesn’t work I’m stuck!

I mean, what happens to the lock? How does it deadlock? Is it just a failed lock or something that as its locked, cannot be opened with keys, handles, etc? Is deadlock meant to be a security feature? My old Yaris has a system where, press the remote to lock doors once, they all lock. Press a second time, within a few seconds, the deadlocks engage and you can't open the car even by smashing a window and reaching in to the cabin to open from the inside or if you were already inside the car, which WOULD be possible with a single press of the key.

45 minutes ago, mrgf said:

I mean, what happens to the lock? How does it deadlock? Is it just a failed lock or something that as its locked, cannot be opened with keys, handles, etc? Is deadlock meant to be a security feature? My old Yaris has a system where, press the remote to lock doors once, they all lock. Press a second time, within a few seconds, the deadlocks engage and you can't open the car even by smashing a window and reaching in to the cabin to open from the inside or if you were already inside the car, which WOULD be possible with a single press of the key.

Sorry for misunderstanding. From reading other threads I believe it's deadlocked. Can't be opened from inside or out, no noise of lock operating when central electric operated so could be lock motor or perhaps just lock power connection. People seem to have had to resort to cutting into lock and/or attacking it with chisel to persuade door to open again, allowing old lock to be detached. Symptoms were the door would fail to unlock intermittently i.e. if you tried a few times it would operate. Need to remove door card and the window mechanism before getting any access to lock. Joy.

I assume you have checked the wires in the door bellows first, prior to damaging anything? They are a little prone to snapping!

Yes they are prone to fractures, as I only recently had to repair broken power wire in front door bellow for LHS mirror. But thanks for reminding me to check this first if/when I ever get door open again. Obviously can't access the bellows till then which is frustrating!

Edited 29 May, 20188 yr by Stratfordade

On ‎22‎/‎05‎/‎2018 at 14:54, Stratfordade said:

Thanks but the photo I posted is deceiving, as it’s looking up at the recess. I have necessary bits, but the position of screw head in recess makes it impossible to get a bit square on to the head, and there’s no room in the tiny recess for a ratchet head or similar. If anyone here has a look at base of rear door they’ll see what I mean, unless I’m being very stupid!

People if this post is outdated I apologise. only just joined the site.

I've just got the rear door not unlocking problem and I was minutes away from finding a window big enough to throw the car through/out of. I was contacted by a very very helpful Skoda mechanic who suggested the following to release the lock without damaging the door.

On the armrest controls for my Superb is a little used button for the central locking just in front of the window controls, it has the icons for a key and the car outline. Basically what he did, (I watched him do it so know its true) he continued to press the button to lock unlock the door at the same time pulling the handle from the inside. The lock popped up in about 30 seconds. My lock hadn't opened for about 3 weeks. So now, having got the lock open I need to find how to remove the door card without damaging it to lubricate/clean the lock actuator.

 

Thanks for updating thread with useful info Beejay1334.

 

I should have also updated the thread with how I sorted the problem. After weeks of not responding at all, I had to open car when I was doing other work at that rear corner, and heard the rear lock operate! Opened door and set to work removing door card, outer handle rear, and the lock itself. I got hold of a used replacement lock for £18, and when that arrived I was able to confirm that it responded consistently to lock and unlock signals when plugged in, whereas the problem one was now no longer responding again!

 

With the replacement lock installed in door all is now well again. A few of the door card clips broke when I took card off, but replacements were just 25p each.

Yep mine played the 'now I'm working now I'm not' game for about 4 weeks. I took the door card out but haven't replaced the lock. I think I'll do what you did and get a used one from Ebay.

 

10 minutes ago, Beejay1334 said:

Yep mine played the 'now I'm working now I'm not' game for about 4 weeks. I took the door card out but haven't replaced the lock. I think I'll do what you did and get a used one from Ebay.

 

This was the supplier I used on eBay, but there were a few to choose from:

 

a1autopartsnw

Phone:07864894631

 

While I had the door open I was able to check that the wiring loom was fine, whereas a few wires have needed repair on front doors. I suppose the front doors are operated far more frequently, and the loom is simpler at rear too with just a few wires for lock, window and door speaker.

Edited 12 July, 20187 yr by Stratfordade

On 10/07/2018 at 11:28, Beejay1334 said:

People if this post is outdated I apologise. only just joined the site.

I've just got the rear door not unlocking problem and I was minutes away from finding a window big enough to throw the car through/out of. I was contacted by a very very helpful Skoda mechanic who suggested the following to release the lock without damaging the door.

On the armrest controls for my Superb is a little used button for the central locking just in front of the window controls, it has the icons for a key and the car outline. Basically what he did, (I watched him do it so know its true) he continued to press the button to lock unlock the door at the same time pulling the handle from the inside. The lock popped up in about 30 seconds. My lock hadn't opened for about 3 weeks. So now, having got the lock open I need to find how to remove the door card without damaging it to lubricate/clean the lock actuator.

 

Wow, opened the wife's fabia rear door using this technique, it's been locked for a while before this, thank you for sharing, saved me destroying the door card and putting a hole in the door, as well as all the hastle. Cheers.