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Dipstick tube too narrow for extractor

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  • Stratfordade
    Stratfordade

    Well thanks to all who helped here, but earlier today I was in garage, and realised I had an old marine/lawnmower size Pela on shelf which I'd last used for fixing a toilet cistern! The tube measured

  • Try searching using PPU or nylon tubing.  Getting a short length might be tricky.   Edit:- or even enot tubing as that should show you rigid plastic tubing to fit enot fittings.

  • @mrgf; I think you'll struggle to find anyone who can tell you this info.  Using a piece of stiff fence wire may be a way to find out for yourself? Round/smooth the end off first so it doesn't ca

I have some of that, the answer is no for a couple of reasons, it wants to curl so goes into the sump oil & then resurfaces, impossible to judge that it is at the bottom.

 

Thick wall and tiny bore size incompatible with lifting a viscous fluid, need something just shy of 8mm, straight, rigid but with some flexibility and minimal wall thickness.

4 minutes ago, J.R. said:

I have some of that, the answer is no for a couple of reasons, it wants to curl so goes into the sump oil & then resurfaces, impossible to judge that it is at the bottom.

 

Thick wall and tiny bore size incompatible with lifting a viscous fluid, need something just shy of 8mm, straight, rigid but with some flexibility and minimal wall thickness.

my problem is same as the op, it has to be 5mm in order to fit in the dipstick.

ok, i will keep searching till i can find something.

Try searching using PPU or nylon tubing.  Getting a short length might be tricky.

 

Edit:- or even enot tubing as that should show you rigid plastic tubing to fit enot fittings.

Edited by rum4mo

Yes!

 

You will need to "train" it to become straight as it will come coiled up.

Edited by rum4mo

Could you put a thin piece of "piano wire" down the inside to keep it straight? You would have to ensure that it was firmly attached at the top end so that it does not fall into the sump.

Edited by Liger1956
spelling

I don't think that the second ebay link is what you need, that looks like very soft and flexible low pressure hoses for windscreen washers etc, the bore to wall thickness ratio will be wrong and so the wall thinckness will steal too much of the available cross sectional area and leave you with a very small area for oil to get sucked up.

 

Piano wire also tends to come in coils and is less tolerant to be "trained" to straighten up and stay straight - very very good for many other tasks though!

 

Edit:- also piano wire, or a shortish length of it might just slip down into the sump, and that would not be very handy!  Also it would restrict the available bore for the oil to get sucked up.

Edited by rum4mo

bouhgt the first link, will have to somehow connect it to my extractor now.

with all this messing around with tubes etc etc.................far easier to drain from the sump plug 😏.........gets more out to...............just my opinion

Edited by UrbanPanzer

19 hours ago, froggy8 said:

bouhgt the first link, will have to somehow connect it to my extractor now.

 

You could use a short length of suitable bore reinforced fuel/etc hose - just make sure that it can be tightened onto your original pipe before/if cutting that down in length a bit, you might even get off without needing to use Jubilee clips, get the short "joining piece" nice and hot in boiling water to help with assembling things.

10 hours ago, UrbanPanzer said:

with all this messing around with tubes etc etc.................far easier to drain from the sump plug 😏.........gets more out to...............just my opinion

 

Exactly and then buy something like a motor mower to use the extractor on!

I had a flexible cystoscopy proceedure the other month and this thread is making my toes curl again.... 😰

...If you spotted my first reply, the genuine Pela tubbiest IS 0.5mm thick and available from them, for around 318, delivered. They are kind of reinforced with metal coil, like a bicycle brake cable. They can kink though and then take quite a bit of force to remove. They will eventually come out but will be rendered useless so figure that in to the cost of a few oil changes and don't push it in too far so as to let it kink or too hot to allow it to bend and set as it cools!

  • 4 months later...

...Just raising this post again as its time to change my oil and I about to purchase a new tube-set from Pela... Does anyone actually KNOW how far to push the tube in, to reach the bottom end? Its gonna have to be enough to reach but not to curl, as previously mentioned but a genuine, known distance would be greta to know. My guess is Pela won't know as they will be used on anything from cars, to boats, to motorcycles so each will need to be correct for that application. Additionally, Skoda and/or VW won't know or will not probably disclose this as it is not in their interest. They will gain nothing from people doing their own oil changes! That said, if they sold extractors, then they would most likely know.

 

Tp also reply to rum4mo, who said  "with all this messing around with tubes etc etc.................far easier to drain from the sump plug ........gets more out to...............just my opinion", That may be true to a certain degree and on certain cars but i saw a testimonial on Youtube, regarding a Mercedes specialist, who highly recommends using the extract method and he even showed removed sumps, where draining left around a cup or so of fluid still in the pan, despite the drain plug being taken out. He then showed how low the tube could go, to extract more then the drain method.  Apparently, transmission sumps were even worse, leaving quite a lot of old fluid behind. I guess thats a part of the reason why filters and oil should be changed nice and regularly. The new oil will still contain a smallish amount of older oil within its volume.

This may sound obvious with hindsight but if you're pushing the extraction tube down the dipstick sleeve then you want it to be slightly longer than the dipstick itself to be sure of reaching the bottom of the sump.

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@mrgf; I think you'll struggle to find anyone who can tell you this info. 

Using a piece of stiff fence wire may be a way to find out for yourself? Round/smooth the end off first so it doesn't catch on, or scratch anything. You'll hear and feel it arrive at the bottom of the sump, I think.

 

Yeah, that sounds logical. I think I will also unwind the new tube, when I get one and then keep it straight for a few days. I think having too warm an engine also helps make them bend into a tricky shape!

I still have not found a rigid or rigidish thin wall tube to pass through the dipstick tube of my Yeti, in the meantime the suction pump stopped working and after getting filthy spending ages trying to get it working like many tools I swear at I found the plastic has cracked where the plunger assembly is sealed to the container.

 

I have done the first oil change the old way & wont be buying a new suction pump, a more expensive on this time, until I have found a suitable source of a decent extraction tube.

 

In the meantime I did an oil change on the Octavia before selling it & found I had a hand held Lidl fluid transfer pump, it had a semi rigid 6mm/3.5mm tube which would lift diesel but not old thin engine oil on the hottest day of the year.

 

If anyone finds a suitable copper or aluminium tube then let me know, I want to buy a new suction vessel for future oil changes.

I am just gonna spend the cash and order another Pela Tube set. I will just try harder to look after it, taking care not to have too hot an engine and not push it in too far. I did get a few uses out of the tube but still, that adds an extra £9 per oil change just for tubes, I guess. I just looked at the old one, thinking of chopping off the damage as it was mostly at the end but I then spotted a snag some way up. Probably too far up really but after trimming, would most likely put the damage right in the worse place to get stuck! I thought about the nylon type tubing and slipping that on where the flexible metal lined bit connects to the plastic hose but then thought if it snapped, it would leave a chunk still inside the sump!  I know I got all the old tube out, but may have had a few fragments slip in. Fingers crossed they get picked up by the oil filter and don't go flying all around the engine but that was ages ago, now.

What a palaver, all this just to avoid removing the plug designed by the manufacturer to be removed for regular oil changes.

 

People and their money I guess...

Their speaketh someone who I have no doubt has his oil changes done by a garage who I have even more certainty will have never removed an undertray and drained the oil from the plug, wont stop them invoicing a new plug each time because they claim that the 20mm fine pitch threads stretch when the bolt is tightened into aluminium.

 

Your reflection on others  applys equally to yourself.

 

I recommend everyone removes their undertray and does a manual oil change at least once even if they have a suction rig because the likelyhood is that it has never been removed before & the rear bolts will be seized, if you manage to extract them you can use anti-seize compound on them. The one on my Octavia had never been off in 12 years and 122000 miles and the sump plug had never ever been removed.

 

Anyone who has ever done their own oil changes would not question the wisdom or mock others who use a suction rig and I speak as someone who spent 48 uneccessary years on their back doing oil changes.

You must be kidding JR, the only stuff I don't do is exhaust and tyre fitting, I do agree with you about the undertray though, straight in the bin, day one, on every vehicle I've owned since manufacturers started fitting them.

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