Code reader is showing up a Throttle body fault.

 

The engine is a 2006 2.0TDI BDK and looking at ebay, most are shown as 038128063C

 

Checking that the throttle body is generic across the WV group? is the 038128063C the right one for a 2006 2.0 THD BDK engine?

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Golf-MK5-2-0-SDI-BDK-Throttle-Body-038-128-063-C-2004-to-2009/362152119956?hash=item5451f2ce94:g:vZcAAOSw241YUTFu

 

Also wondered what it did??

BKD engine...Try searching for 038128063G, Thats for the 2.0 TDI..

Edited 27 August, 20187 yr by Doofy

Would like to check a little further on this before clicking the 'buy' button.

 

The one on the car clearly has 038128063C stamped on it, but the body doesn't seem to my eyes to look like the ones in the adverts for said throttle body reference.

 

Anyone else with experience with this??

 

 

Apologies for bumping this but intrigued to learn what a throttle valve does on a diesel? For a petrol, I can get it for regulating the mixture flow, but the diesel, surely that's done by the injectors. 

 

Still open to advice as to which body I need to buy.

@mark antony; although it looks like a C, that's actually a G on your original part. Confirmed when I look up 038128063G here and find that it was superseded by 038128063L in 2008, which agrees with the info for item 3 here.  So you should buy one that's suffix G, as @Doofy says above, or suffix L, which will also work.

 

As for what it does, two things that I am aware of. Firstly it helps the engine shut down cleanly; as diesels like to carry on running even after the fuelling ceases. So shutting off the air supply helps reduce shudder (these valves are sometimes/earlier referred to as anti-shudder valves). Secondly, I believe it has a function as part of the EGR system, artificially generating lower pressure (by throttling the incoming air) in the intake tract so that more EGR flow into the engine can be achieved than might otherwise be possible; under certain operating conditions.

Edited 31 August, 20187 yr by Wino

3 minutes ago, Wino said:

@mark antony; although it looks like a C, that's actually a G on your original part. Confirmed when I look up 038128063G here and find that it was superseded by 038128063L in 2008, which agrees with the info for item 3 here.  So you should buy one that's suffix G, as @Doofy says above, or suffix L, which will also work.

 

As for what it does, two things that I am aware of. Firstly it helps the engine shut down cleanly, as diesels like to carry on running even after the fuelling ceases, so shutting off the air supply helps reduce shudder (these valves are sometimes/earlier referred to as anti-shudder valves). Secondly, I believe it has a function as part of the EGR system, artificially generating lower pressure (by throttling the incoming air) in the intake tract so that more EGR flow into the engine can be achieved than might otherwise be possible.

Wino ( and Doofy) Thanks for such a complete answer. So much for my 'clearly marked as C'!

No problem, please let us know how you get on replacing it.  Not sure if it will require the engine ECU to be re-adapted to it with VCDS?

Also, if you haven't already done so, have a very good look at the wiring and connections in that four-way plug to make sure it's not a busted wire or mucky connection.

I'll just have a browse and see if I can find the relevant fuse to check too.  Always nice to rule out free fixes before buying replacement parts.

Fuse 24 in the 'E-box' under the bonnet.  Would also affect the radiator fan control unit if blown, so well worth checking.

21 hours ago, Wino said:

Fuse 24 in the 'E-box' under the bonnet.  Would also affect the radiator fan control unit if blown, so well worth checking.

A case of good news: bad news, as Fuse 24 (10 amp) was blown, so thought that might sort fault code and get valve back working. Bad news that replacement blew straight-away. Chances are that ithe fuse=blowing issue is with the fan. Although it blows immediately, much before there would be any call on the fan tripping in.

 

Any thoughts and past experience on this?

Try unplugging the throttle body and then fitting another new fuse.

On 01/09/2018 at 16:26, Wino said:

Try unplugging the throttle body and then fitting another new fuse.

 

That's sound advice, I guess given the fuse does the throttle body and a fan, then by a process of elimination, I will know which of the two is causing the problem.

 

The problem is that I'm having difficulty in removing the electric connection to the throttle body. With this being  200k car, I'm wary of the plastic/cables being brittle so don't want to pull too hard. There seems to be on of those 'hidden' clips that you have to push/pull to release, but no amount of prodding with a small screwdriver blade seems to disconnect.

 

Is there an obvious way to disconnect the electrics connection?

I think it's the type where you have to lift a little tab to release the latch.  A key route to success is to push the connector quite firmly in the mating direction (as opposed to the releasing direction) before/while pulling this tab up. That helps the latch release, you may hear it click open, then pull the connector off.

Thank you. With throttle Connection disconnected, the fuse doesn't blow - so quite conclusive evidence as to where the problem lies. 

 

I'll get on and replace the throttle body now.

 

Thanks again