Central locking on drivers door

[jackg]

I tried to replace the window winding mechanism until I realised I had the wrong part. 1U6 959802B instead of D, so the door control panel only controls one window not four, if anyone wants one?

 

Reassembled to find that the central locking did not lock that drivers door nor does the red light come on when locked.

The key locks the door and will open all four windows when the key is held open.

All other door controls work, door fascia panel locks/unlocks three doors.

The door lock is a pattern replacement from 2.1/2 years ago.

 

Any pointers would help; lock mechanism, wiring?

Ta

Edited 18 November, 2018 by jackg

[mac11irl]

Id say the wiring loom through the door grommet got disturbed and enough corrosion fell off to dodgify the connection on driver door wiring.

 

[absolutuk]

There must be something in the air, mine has done the same this week. Started with the drivers door not locking, then on a second or third press on the fob locking properly, now it's given up the ghost, so back to using a key like the old days.

Edited 19 November, 2018 by absolutuk

[kentphil1]

You have that absolutely spot on, there is something in the air now - cool damp air. The locking system is known for water ingress into the system, especially the drivers door module. check the connections now while the weather is passable, before you get a door lock itself shut on a stinking wet night.

 

jackg, put a multimeter on your door loom at both ends of the connections in continuity mode and check it for broken wires. Also check for any green stains in the loom plug and clean it crefully off if you find any. When you reassemble, use some dielectric grease to put a bit of protection into the system for a while. I do my connections about every 2-3 years as a precaution.

[absolutuk]

Well pulled the door card off for a closer look. Checked for corrosion on connectors of which there was none, there was no sign of corrosion anywhere within the door which surprised me. The drivers wing mirror which did move and heat up before I went exploring, has now stopped working. Puddle light, Interior light and lights left on buzzer all still work. All the windows work as does the door open indicator. Looks like I need a replacement module.

[kentphil1]

When you removed the plug from the drivers window module, did any water run out from the module?.

 

I must say, from the issues you are listing, I would suggest the same course of action that I suggested to jackg.

 

I would remove the loom plug from the moule in the door and down at the connector at the base of the drivers "a" post, then carry out a continuity check on the loom.

 

I'm guessing you have at least one broken wire inside the insulation of the loom. Don't forget, a wire can be broken inside the insulation, but look perfectly intact to the naked eye inspection

 

Hope it helps.

[absolutuk]

It was bone dry no green or purple gunk and all the pins on the window module where all present and correct. I was surprised because I was expecting some corrosion as it is a common issue. I think you are correct in that it is a wire fault rather than the module. Will do a continuity check tomorrow once the sliced fingers and knuckles have healed up. Why do they booby trap these things with sharp edges...??

Edited 24 November, 2018 by absolutuk

[jackg]

Thanks for your help. Sorry for the delay in responding.

I did a search and realised it was the connector block on the bottom of the winding mechanism.

Squirt of WD40 and solved it. One pin is rusty and not good but does work now.

[mac11irl]

Get some electrical contact cleaning spray rather than Wd40, it will take ALOT more corrosion off, and no worries about accidental short circuits once its evaporated off  post cleaning