Hi all, I recently got myself a 2002 Octavia 2.0 petrol,its originally  English registered now on Spanish plates so its right hand drive. I bought (cheap) it with a few problems,I've sorted almost all of the problems but not the front passenger side electric window. The window didn't work when I got the car so I took the door card off,surprised to find no regulator or motor. Managed to find a regulator and motor,fitted today, it worked, for a few minutes. I disconnected the motor and reconnected and it worked again,for a few minutes. I have to disconnect the motor and reconnect to get it to work which is obviously not right. Has anyone any ideas?   

Hi, went to try find the problem this morning, started the car and the passenger window worked perfectly,for 5 minutes. I took the door card off again disconnected the motor reconnected and it worked,for 5 minutes. Drove round to a friend who is a bit of a mechanic,when I got there it was working,for 5 minutes,that was without disconnecting,so just the same as leaving it overnight. my friend didn't have a clue. Hope someone on here can help its driving me mad. With the car being UK car originally, now imported to Spain its RHD and using the motorway here means taking a ticket through the passenger window,so its kind of important it works. Any help would be appreciated. 

Just thought but is it something to do with the battery being at voltage low enough to trigger the system to shut down non essential components? Have you tried running the car for a short while and seeing whether the window works after 5 minutes like when visiting your friend.

Further to that, it does do "graceful degradation" of systems, so would turn off the ICE and interior fan before the window motors.

Hi,thanks for the reply, its a new battery, everything else works fine. I haven't mentioned that the central locking on the passenger also doesn't work but Im not that bothered about that,I can just push the button down get out and lock the car as normal.  

On 21/12/2018 at 14:19, denso50 said:

its a new battery, everything else works fine.

That doesn't mean that one of the alternator control wires isn't disconnected, or the alternator clutch isn't sticking open.

 

Does the battery light come on when you switch the ignition on but haven't started the engine?

What voltage do you have over the battery terminals? (12v off, 14.4v running)

Voltage at battery 12v & 14v, battery light comes on before starting goes off immediately after starting, all normal. Everything is normal everything works as it should except passenger door window & central locking on that door. Not bothered about the locking just the window, both related I suppose.

@denso50 - OK, I think we've probably arrived at the issue being with the door loom then. It's common.

Ok, I'll do some more exploring tomorrow. If no joy I'll leave it till after new year and start again. Thanks for the advice. I am beginning to think maybe the comfort unit behind the light switch, I'll have a look at it in morning 

@denso50 - Go armed with a multimeter; you need to continuity test the wires through the bellows from A-port to door.

Just noticed the interior lights also don't work from front passenger door, so I think all related somehow

Now even more certain you need to check the wires and connectors in that door.

if you installed a new regulator and motor they usually have a door lock module there too ( door lock and door loom all come from the same connector) and this would need pairing with the ECU to work properly.

 

This is the part of the  window motor I'm on about:

 

As far as the interior light not working its down to a micro switch thats worn out. (make sure its not the bulb first and see if the puddle lights in door cards light up if you open the door)

I've replaced all 4 in mine for a peace of mind there's tonnes of guides on how to do it. 

Very often its cheaper to buy a whole new lock and replaced it than to buy a micro switch.

 

Another issue I've had with mine whenever somethings works intermittently is either cables that are corroded inside or chafed cables especially where the cables pass from the door into the cars body through the rubber boots if you like:

Edited 23 December, 20187 yr by WelshSkoda93

Ok thanks for the information. I'm not overly bothered about the locking, I can just push the button on the door down before I get out then lock the car as normal. It's the window I want working. It does work, for instance, when I first get in the car after it's been parked overnight it works, for 5 minutes, then stops, if I drive for a few miles it will work again, for 5 minutes. Very strange,I've checked all the connections, as much as I can see, cables all look fine. Puddle lights all work.

Hi, thanks to everyone trying to help. Would the fact that when the window decides to work,it only works from the passenger side window switch,the drivers side switch doesn't do anything, maybe that has something to do with the problem? 

28 minutes ago, denso50 said:

Very strange,I've checked all the connections, as much as I can see, cables all look fine. Puddle lights all work.

 

OK if puddle lights work that rules out the microswitch.

 

You need to check the actual cable runs on all its lenght very carefully. It's not a 5 mintue job.

A rotten through cable will look fine on the outside but will look like this on the inside instead of shiny copper you will see a 'green colour'

 

All the cables now will also be very old and stiff & crusty on a 20 year old car:

 

You should remove the whole loom from the door and undo that black 'tape' covering the cable and check everything for continuity and breaks in the outer cable.

You should also remove the door lock module and re-seat it. You shouldn't have to worry about cold joints there as that PCB has conformal coating but its worth a look anyway it doesn't cost anytghing.

 

When My rear door lock didn't work I replaced the door lock twice, and the whole window motor assembly twice because I was too lazy too look for broken cables and wasted 2 whole weekends on this job.

 

I'm 99% sure thats whats causing your issue especially the intermittent working, cables will sometimes make a connection due to vibration, humidity and temperature. This isn't a fault where randomly swapping out parts will fix it you have to look at the cables in detail :)

OK, thanks, looks like its a weekend job. Going to give it a rest until after Christmas,got a couple of weeks off so plenty of time. Merry Christmas to everyone, probably be asking for advice in a few days.

Well I've had another go at the window problem. I took the loom out of the door, took all that black tape off, all looks OK , checked continuity of all the cables, all OK. Checked and cleaned all connections, put the loom back in after wrapping it in tape, tried the window, it worked for about 5 minutes. Disconnected the motor reconnected it worked for 5 minutes. The switch for the passenger window on the drivers door has never worked since I installed the regulator and motor, could that be linked to the problem?