Vrs running lumpy when cold.

[4Wardy]

Ok well I’ll try and get some figures. It does have a stage 1 remap. 210bhp apparently

[4Wardy]

Struggling to sort the logging at the minute but you can see max limits in green for all the gauges.

screenshot is at idle.

maf 178g/s max and 3.5g/s at idle once warm.

Edited 14 January, 2019 by 4Wardy

[4Wardy]

[iXtremist]

That MAF reading is on idle is bad, who did the  chip? Do you have another VRS around to try swap the MAF for free? Also 178 g/s point to more than 210HP or MAF is telling more than it really is, causing the car going rich.
 

Could you post the log data in text here so i can give it to table excel?

Also for others who do VDCS/VAG logging, check this site.
https://malonetuning.com/assets/files/vagcom_logging_guide.pdf
 

This one - you just upload the file directly from VAG log and it creates interactive graphs, VERY USEFULL.
https://log.malonetuning.com/upload

Edited 14 January, 2019 by iXtremist

[4Wardy]

I can’t seem to load that data any other way.

do you think the maf is the best place to start then?

[iXtremist]

For sure, but go with original bosh one, others are usually crap.

[iXtremist]

And first clean the throttle body

[4Wardy]

When you say other maf’s Are crap. Do you mean they don’t read correctly or they don’t last very long?

cheers

[iXtremist]

Both

[4Wardy]

Ok, ordered Bosch.

can I disconnect throttle body electrically to clean it?

i heard that it will need resetting with vagcom or something if I do?!?

[iXtremist]

Just dont unplug it, better way is to turn keys to first position and have somebody to press the accelerator pedal.  Throttle will wide open even when the motor is not started.. Just dont push on the flap. Also, there is a gasket (very cheap one, like  2 euro) between intake and throttle body.

 

I personally use IPA + Toothbrush

Edited 20 January, 2019 by iXtremist

[4Wardy]

Ok so I’ve cleaned the TB and changed the MAF.

Still exactly the same to drive.

 

any other suggestions?

I have changed the coolant sensor but could the thermostat it’s self be a cause for the rich running?

cheers

[4Wardy]

Car is getting worse.

revs freely when accelerating slowly through the Rev range.

when accelerating harder and boosting slightly it is jumpy. Can hear the turbo spoiling and then not. Feels like a misfire but turbo related.

[iXtremist]

Get the VAG cable and diagnose it properly. This is stabbing in dark. Could be anything from dead turbo/wastegate/solenoid to vacuum leaks, fuel pump, coils, sparkplugs etc..

Edited 5 February, 2019 by iXtremist

[4Wardy]

Well I have found an old friend with vagcom so will be getting it to him as soon as he can fit me in. But in the mean time can you tell me what this y-hose is and what it does please? It is very soft and I can see it collapsing when I accelerate hard.

 Could be part of the issue?!?

[iXtremist]

Read one of my post earlier in this thread. I have described this one already.

[4Wardy]

Ok, just looked back thanks.

quick question. Will vagcom pin point a leak/collapsed pipe etc?

or is it up to the user to work out from the figures?

[iXtremist]

You will probably not see fault code for broken pipe. Broken pipe usually can be detected on long term trims of A/F ratio. Best way to figure them out is simple smoke test of vacuum / boost system. 

[pistonbroke1]

Just a quick check as I had roughly the same problem on my estate and I thought it was a coil pack starting to break down as the problem was lumpy when pulling away but as you drove it harder it went. When I serviced it I found that somehow a plug had started to unwind in the head and once a new set was put in and tightened down the problem went and now she is as good as new. For the sake of 5 mins just check that all the plugs are tight.

[4Wardy]

Hi, thanks for the reply.

I have just installed new plugs to rule them out.

i changed coil packs with two new ones I had and swapped them out one at a time to rule them out.

cheers though.

[chris2470]

Mine has always run limply when cold for around 30 seconds after first start up, then is clear, I believe this is caused by the SAI system heating the CAT when cold, this can also easily heard when running. I was lead to believe the ECU is causing this by adjusting the valve timing causing an overlap.

Try starting the car, leaving it for 1 minute then starting your journey, see if this helps.

[4Wardy]

Ithought this initially too. I have a spare secondary air pump. Although the problem happens when the car is warm so I’ve ruled this out. It is definitely worse when cold. It happens when using part throttle but enough to be boosting.

Barely noticeable when fly out.

 

[4Wardy]

Update, I’ve been to the garage to get it on vagcom.

no codes logged at all.

injector values are all correct etc. 

They suspected coils 3+4 from something they saw.

one of these is a brand new one but not genuine.

so... I have bought 2 genuine and  surprise surprise it’s still jerky.

i have however noticed a little whooshing sound like pressure building and then releasing when sat on idle and everything is quiet.

could this be the pcv doing something weird? Failing etc?

cheers

 

[4Wardy]

Another update.

ive replaced all breather pipework from the oil filter housing up to the pcv including the y piece which was very soft.

the whole run of pipes was full of congealed creamy white oil and sh1tty bits.

the bottom part of the hose seemed to have a split in it and as soon as I touched it, it shattered.

I haven’t tried the car from cold yet, however it definately feels different but it is still doing it.

I accidentally left a plug off when unshipping the pipe support bracket from the front of the inlet manifold.

This eventually put the elm on but it seemed to be running better.

could this suggest the sai air pump thing is knackered?

If I pop the pipe off the air box I can feel it is operating when first started etc. 

Any help appreciated

 

[4Wardy]

Just managed to do some logging if it helps diagnose. Hope you can read this.