Need to replace daylight driving light but I cannot remove the grille that gains access to light unit, handbook says guide fingers into opening and slacken ? I've tried pulling levering all sorts, even gave up in the end and took it too Halfords to be told not insured to remove body panel's will have to book into workshop. Surly not anybody mastered this please. 

for facelift you need to remove bumper I think. what is your car? year model etc.

Its 2011 estate L&K 2L you can see that the ends of the Rad grill come out as separate pieces just cant get it to move

I had the same problem with accessing my drl bulbs. Gave up trying to remove the grill as shown in the handbook as it seemed likely I would break something as I was pulling with all my weight.

 

I turned the front wheel inwards on the side of interest and then removed two or three of the screws holding the liner in place (see photo). You can then pull back the liner enough to get your arm and hand to the drl bulb for replacement. Note that it looks like I have bent the liner but in fact the liner is in two parts and they are just resting one against the other.

 

When I took the bulb out, I found the solder pip contact on the tip of the bulb had been fretted away to almost nothing by vibration. I built back up the solder pip with an iron and it has been fine ever since. That also explained why the bulb out warning had been intermittent as it wore down.

 

 

Edited 10 February, 20197 yr by pikpilot
Typo fixed

1 hour ago, TheClient said:

for facelift you need to remove bumper I think. what is your car? year model etc.

 

I believe VRS is different to Elegance and L&K

Thank you I will give this a try

 

Another cheat is to use an old credit card.

 

Jam it along the inside edge of the DRL/fog lamp and it'll come out. Much like this:

 

 

 

 

if you are going to replace the bulb, make sure it is a PY21W SLL bulb (as shown in the handbook) as it has a thicker filament to resist vibration. Normal bulbs don't last. If you want LED equivelent then use the type shown in the first video. LEDs that have the resistor in the cap can overheat the connector.

Brilliant thanks everyone

 

No need for additional resistor in DRL bulbs. This P21W do not show blown bulb error on dash.

1 hour ago, Krunoslav said:

No need for additional resistor in DRL bulbs. This P21W do not show blown bulb error on dash.

 

That LED bulb will have a resistor built into the cap to try to fool the bulb monitoring systems and any excess heat it creates can melt the bulb holder.

 

It's best to get quality 'non CAN-bus friendly' bulbs and code out the bulb warning.

1 hour ago, langers2k said:

 

That LED bulb will have a resistor built into the cap to try to fool the bulb monitoring systems and any excess heat it creates can melt the bulb holder.

 

It's best to get quality 'non CAN-bus friendly' bulbs and code out the bulb warning.

 

That's true. I use this bulbs about a year. No damage to holders. 

Credit card (old) worked a treat job done thanks