Hi guys.

 

As the title says the previous owner had a garage disable the key fob for the driver side door and so I have to use the key if I want to lock my car. Is it relatively easy to re-enable this on my 1.2 Fabia?

 

Also, two questions, I've tried looking but couldn't find an answer, is the 1.2 Fabia a non-interference engine? And is the key fob meant to be able to open the boot as well? Currently, I have to use the lever next to the driver seat.

 

Thanks in advance.

Edited 18 February, 20197 yr by ScottEnock

The boot won't open because the drivers door lock is disabled, I'm guessing it's been disconnected so you just need to whip the door card off and repair the wires.

 

Yes the 1.2 is an interference engine but it has a cam chain which doesn't snap so it's a moot point.

Thanks for the reply and information. I've just taken the door card off but I can't see a disconnected cable. Do you know what cable I should be looking for? Thanks.

15 minutes ago, ScottEnock said:

Thanks for the reply and information. I've just taken the door card off but I can't see a disconnected cable. Do you know what cable I should be looking for? Thanks.

 

Check the rubber boot in the door jamb as well, the lock connector is behind the window carrier which is probably riveted in place if those rivets haven't been disturbed, early models have bolts instead of rivets.

 

Removing the window carrier is a pain and I'd be surprised if the garage went that far to disable the lock motor.

Sorry I'm a little confused. Here's a picture with the door card off. Do I need to remove those bolts and take off that metal panel?

 

Yes, since it's bolted you should be able to see the wire going to the lock mechanism if you remove all the bolts and take a peek behind it.

Sorry for asking so many questions but is the metal piece supposed to come all the way out? I've unbolted them and pried it off slightly around all the edges.

 

Also, where would the lock mechanism be? I'm currently having the most luck prying from the bottom right of the panel.

That metal plate is holding the window which is why it's called the window carrier so if the window is wound up then it will barely move, the lock is right where you'd expect it to be, you can actually see it bolted to the door shut below the pop-up button.

 

Engage common sense and proceed with caution ok.

Thanks for taking the time with me, it's clear I'm not much of a mechanic.

 

With the window rolled down I can get an inch or two of clearance but I can't see much. Here's a picture of what I see.

Yes, that's not very helpful, I think you should probably abandon mission and put up with it for now, I think replacing the door lock will be almost impossible for you and refitting the plug if it's been disconnected is also extremely difficult because access is so poor.

 

I'm surprised that the garage who disabled the lock didn't do it the easy way by cutting the loom somewhere obvious and easy to get at.

To me, this seems to be a curious feature for a previous owner to request that a garage disable foe them, on the other hand, if there was a wiring failure to the driver's door lock or another failure in the driver's door lock module, it might make some sense to a seller to make up that story.

Mission abandoned. It's a shame that the fob won't be usable but at least I tried.

 

The car was purchased from an elderly gentleman who locked his keys in the car once and so went to the garage to prevent it from happening.

Last question, just to put my mind to rest regarding this issue. Can it only be that they removed the window carrier and disconnect the wire from the locking mechanism? Is there any chance they reprogramed it to operate like this? Thanks.

No.

There's a guide here for removing the carrier: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/119359-removing-the-ancillaries-carrier/

 

 

If you have a multimeter you could possibly prove that the lock connector is disconnected by unplugging a white 6-way connector at the other end of the door loom, on the A-pillar, and measuring resistance between pins 3 and 4 (purple/yellow and blue/yellow) 'looking' for a few Ohms of motor winding on the end?  It is very awkward in the door hinge area, very little hand space, so I'm not sure whether this is worthwhile, except that it would be wise to look for broken wires in the door bellows anyway, just to rule it out.