Hopefully somebody might be able to help.

Car is 1.4 mpi. Doesn't have central locking, electric windows, boot light or glove box light.

Already tried disconnecting the after market radio still goes flat. Battery is new as it was replaced for this problem. If the battery is disconnected it doesn't go flat and the red battery does light up when the ignition is on and goes out as soon as the car is started.

 

Thanks for any advice.

No easy single answer really, you need to monitor the current drain then start removing fuses until the drain drops to maybe 0.08amps. That will not probably give you the final answer, ie the root cause, but it should lead you in towards it.

Remember these cars have a programmable controller that helps to keep the current drain as low as possible, but it also controls the switching of most power users.

Sorting this could take a bit of time when you add in any chaffed leads.

 

Edit:- there might be a large under bonnet fuse that feeds all the “in cabin” users, removing it might be a good first attempt.

 

Another Edit:- getting hold of a Haynes repair manual might help you work your way through the wiring ?

Edited 11 March, 20197 yr by rum4mo

Try disconnecting the cable from the alternator strip fuse overnight. It's No.1, the leftmost as you look from front bumper into the bay. Leave a note on the steering wheel to remind you to reconnect in the morning before starting.

 

 

Add to rum4yo's post. Last time I changed a battery on mine, I was disturbed by the spark when fitting the battery leads, so I checked the current with a meter when connecting. At reconnection, the current might be a bit higher, as functions switch on ( CPU FUNCTION SELF TEST ETC) and then drop to th figure rum mentioned ( or close to it). As mentioned, it might pay to get a Haynes. But in general, I'd approach this problem by removing large consumption layers at a time and see which causes most problems. You don't need a meter. Try and arrange usage into groups and remove fuses for that group overnight. Once you've found a group that causes the problem ,then it's a question of same again. Reduce group and locate problem group, till you get down to one circuit.

On 13/03/2019 at 22:21, VWD said:

Add to rum4yo's post. Last time I changed a battery on mine, I was disturbed by the spark when fitting the battery leads, so I checked the current with a meter when connecting. At reconnection, the current might be a bit higher, as functions switch on ( CPU FUNCTION SELF TEST ETC) and then drop to th figure rum mentioned ( or close to it). As mentioned, it might pay to get a Haynes. But in general, I'd approach this problem by removing large consumption layers at a time and see which causes most problems. You don't need a meter. Try and arrange usage into groups and remove fuses for that group overnight. Once you've found a group that causes the problem ,then it's a question of same again. Reduce group and locate problem group, till you get down to one circuit.

 

If you use a meter reading current you will find  the problem a lot quicker than  having to wait overnight each time .Remember to switch the meter range to a lower range once the electronics have settled down when first connected. Do not try to start the car with a meter in circuit , you will blow the fuse in the meter.Most meters do not have a fuse fitted in the high current range. Most cars have a small amount of current flowing from the battery to run the car alarm etc.It is in the range of 50  milliamps to 200 milliamps (0.05 amps to 0.2 amps.)

 

Edited 16 March, 20197 yr by AndyPandy
easier to understand for non electronic persons

Andy- I'm an electronic qualified bloke. I have the kit to find a leak problem.  But for those with little kit or ideas of how to find this sort of problem, I was detailing it as in a long term solution. Me, I'd look at any more than 50 mA after circuits have settled as excessive. I'd then be  testing ( allowing for circuits to normalise) after removing fuses to isolate parts of the car electrics. BUT- if you have not got a meter ,or if you have, little idea of how to to interpret the results, then it's white stick time.  All I'm doing is to try and pass on the principles of fault finding on electronic & electric circuits gained on over 50 years of experience. I'l admit that iif a lamp has failed , then my first action is to replace lamp. Simplest /easiest /cheapest way. But after that - it's back to first principles, where the rule of eight states that no matter how long the circuit, the fault can be found in no more than eight tests.

VWD,I  am a retired Electronic Qualified  person ,having got my ONC when I was 19,and have done 56 years in Electronics.mostly on updating old equipment,new installations and fault finding in Industry.I  still keep up to date even though I am retired. I am a firm believer  that if you only have little or no Knowledge in Electrical or Electronics get somebody who has the knowledge to fix it for you. Some of the faults I have found and fixed in Home,and Car Electrical/Electronics  have taken a lot more than eight tests to find,so do not understand your rule of eight?

Edited 27 March, 20197 yr by AndyPandy