The front N/S coil spring looks like it's broken. I heard a clunk on the way to work and it now has a tell-tale clunk on steering hard lock.

 

I've changed plenty springs in the past. My wife used to have an Audi A2 1.4 diesel and it used to break a spring every couple of years. We live in Scotland, so although this winter hasn't been too bad, I'm sure it takes its toll.

 

The car is is a 1.6 (105PS) diesel, sitting near 100k miles. The springs I'm opting for are Sachs, rather than OE as the car is a 10 plate. I'll probably do both given the law of averages, as the other side will break at some point. It's a bit of a pain, as I did the wishbone suspension tail end of last year and the tracking was done afterwards.

 

I assume there's a top bearing? In my experience they seize up causing friction on the spring ultimately leading to the failure of the spring. Any pointers for this or brands to look for?

I bought the SACH springs from ECP, but bought the top bearings from VW, this was for a late 2009 Ibiza and I had heard that VW Group had changed some parts to stop/reduce warranty claims over slightly clunking noises from the front struts - so I knew that by buying from a dealer, I would get only the latest versions - I'm guessing here that this version of Fabia has the later front suspension, ie the top mounts that do not bolt into the body using 3 small bolts. I also replaced the special washer that sits inside the top of the top mounting again as I thought its design had changed slightly along with the small top bearing, I replaced the top spring plate/cup but that was not necessary as I could have reused the original, I was just covering the possibility that the top spring plate/cup had got too grotty for reuse.

Thanks for that rum4mo. I'll take your advice and opt for genuine VAG top bearings. I'm assuming the the spring cup you refer to will be fine, nothing that a wire brush attachment on the drill can't sort!

I was just going into overkill mode, got all the bits - even as the car was 7 years old I replaced the struts as I had read a few bad stories about people taking the struts off these cars, Polo/Fabia/Ibiza of that era only to fit new springs, and/or maybe shorter springs, and the strut piston seals started leaking a month later - I did not want that as that car was being sold back to my daughter when she returned from working abroad - and if anything went wrong within 6 months of her buying it, I'd feel duty bound to fix it FOC!  I even treated the top mounts, bought new as well, to a spot of red rubber grease to make sure that there was not going to be any rubbery creaks some after I had worked on it!

Finished this job. What an utter pain in the ****. 

 

First up, bought the SACHS springs from Euro Car Parts. My car, 2010 plate must be between model registrations as the top mounts they supplied were not the small bearing sealed versions, but a large cup style bearing similar to Audi A2. Ordered a Meyle version as driver's side top bearing was fine.

 

Next, to get the struts out, I removed lower balljoint, I had to purchase an M14 splined bit (1 hour round trip) for the strut-hub bolt which is fixed with an M18 nut. Also had to remove the drive shaft hub nut, so assembly could pull out. Oh, and drop links top (where it connects to the strut) need to be removed.

 

Driver's side was fine, passenger side was a pain. The lock nut on the top of the strut that holds the rubber bush and bearing in place is M21 size. You need a drop ring spanner, but profile needs to be very slim. Another 1 hour round trip only to find the spanner wouldn't fit. Angle grinder out, and spanner shaved a little to fit! Found one of my Meyle HD drop links (fitted a year ago) that the rubber bush spring clip had detached, so now goosed. Luckily had a spare.

 

This job wasn't straight forward. Luckily I have another car, but honestly Skoda, whoever thought fitting a M14 splined strut-hub bolt that is going to get seriously corroded should be publicly flogged! Bought Laser tools impact splined bits, excellent quality, combined with extension bar.

 

Tools wise, two trolley jacks. One to lift the car, axle stand for safety, and the other to lift the suspension assembly. You could use same trolley jack I suppose. Splined bits, especially M14, decent quality for hub-strut bolt. Wire brush first, penetrating oil, then hammer bit in. 36mm socket for driveshaft nuts. Fit new ones on completion. 21mm dop ring spanner (not Silverline tools). To get strut out of the hub, I use the end of a pin hammer where I've made a wedge. Works a treat. Use engine oil to lube when refitting. Spring compressors. I have Draper and Laser ones.

 

 

Edited 7 April, 20197 yr by spartacus68

Yes on all points!

 

M14 Spine - only DIYers with that sizes have already been there done that - handy for increasing/improving tool kit!

More than one brand/type of spring compressor does help get control of tapered springs!

I think that I've used both a Vortex drive through socket and a spark plug socket that both a 1/2" square drive and a hex male on its top end.

 

I had already had all the hate driven out of me as regards this job back when I did this job on a 2002 Polo in maybe 2007, plus I ended up with all the extra tools except the Vortex drive through socket set which was a later "indulgence" buy having done that type of job once! I got so annoyed with wedging the hub open first time that I quickly bought the Laser Tools equivalent of the VW workshop hub "opener" tools.