Fabia VRS 1.4 MK2 Bluespark chip & spark plugs

[RezaVrs]

Hey guys

i’ve recentlt bought a Dragy performance meter. Its a real handy tool, its basically a GPS based performance timer that records various times. 0-30 0-60 60-100 etc etc my main focus is 0-60. Ive not done any mods to my 2013 VRS Fabia except the exhaust straight piped and muffler deletes. The dragy device measures accurate to 1/100th of a second so its super accurate. It even detects if you’re travelling on a road with the tiniest slope too. The best launch and time i’ve got 0-60 in 6.24 seconds. Which i think is phenomenal. Question is, is the bluespark tune worth getting over a stage 1? If so why/whats the difference?

second question, is there any point getting some sort of intake manifold/boost pipe upgrades? If not what would you recommend. And lastly, the car does not ever misfire, however very very rarely probably 1-2 times a month when im in 2nd gear just cruising at 20-25mph for about 20-30 seconds and then suddenly floor it the car does an insane jerky hiccup that shakes me wildly before i regain control and up a gear, why is that? Is that possibly related to spark plugs? 

 

Sorry about all the questions, I just need some help and if theres someone that can help me with my list of mods please email me/personal message me or something

 

many many thanks in advance

 

- enjoy the dsg fart below ;)

 

[Ootohere]

A BlueSpark box IMO would not be worth getting over a Stage 1 remap, 

but when no Remap was available for the CTHE then it was worth getting and worked OK.

Still will.

 

Worst OEM part on a 1.4TSI / TFSI 132-136 kW twincharger is the manifold.

A crap piece, just rubbish and well worth replacing with a performance part if you can find one.

Might as well get a performance / upgrade Manifold & Turbo.  Just splash the cash...

 

Maybe look up at the pinned thread on the links to Lucifers Ultimate guide, then look at the link to Part 2.

 

?

So are you using Super Unleaded 99 ron / Tesco Momentum, Costco or Shell V-Power Nitro +

?

What spark plugs are fitted, with what gap and when were they fitted, how many miles ago?

?

Has your car had a Software Update since it left the factory?

 

 

 

Worth buying / fitting IMO.

 

 

 

Edited 30 March, 2019 by Skoffski

[FlexibleMouse]

With a set of sticky tyres and a full throttle launch you will hit 60 in well under 6 seconds on the right surface.

[RezaVrs]

4 hours ago, Skoffski said:

A BlueSpark box IMO would not be worth getting over a Stage 1 remap, 

but when no Remap was available for the CTHE then it was worth getting and worked OK.

Still will.

 

Worst OEM part on a 1.4TSI / TFSI 132-136 kW twincharger is the manifold.

A crap piece, just rubbish and well worth replacing with a performance part if you can find one.

Might as well get a performance / upgrade Manifold & Turbo.  Just splash the cash...

 

Maybe look up at the pinned thread on the links to Lucifers Ultimate guide, then look at the link to Part 2.

 

?

So are you using Super Unleaded 99 ron / Tesco Momentum, Costco or Shell V-Power Nitro +

?

What spark plugs are fitted, with what gap and when were they fitted, how many miles ago?

?

Has your car had a Software Update since it left the factory?

 

 

 

Worth buying / fitting IMO.

 

 

 

Thanks for your detailed reply!

where do you recommend getting the map done anywhere around the london area?

 

I always have been using Shell V-Power, dont know what RON that is stupidly but i know it is quality fuel

 

spark plugs i’d say are factory fitted which ones and what gaps i couldnt tell you but they were probably fitted when the engine replacement occured back in October and that would probably also be sensible if the dealers did the software upgrade. Its not due a service until April 2020 but alot of people have said not to wait for the service to replace plugs if sensed they need replacing.

given my description of the sudden jerky change of gear very seldom, would that relate to the plugs?

 

i dont want to do a huge turbo upgrade etc aiming for stage 3 like upgrades, just an upgrade on the air intake and potentially removing the supercharger cover as dandanfings on youtube recommends, however my friend/mechanic has told me not to as it prevents dirt, grit, chips etc from flying into an exposed supercharger!

 

silly question, what is that valve the australian guy is fitting in that video? Whats it do

[Ootohere]

 

Do you put TC off?

I would, especially if doing 0-62's.   But anytime to save the engine cutting power with wheel spin.

 0-60 always looks better, what is the 0-62 mph / 100kmh

 

 

Shell V-Power Nitro+ in the UK is 99 ron minimum and until March is Winter Grade in the UK, so is Tesco Momentum 99.

If passing a Tesco maybe try the Momentum and not just because cheaper, i would buy it if the same or even more expensive.

 

Spark plugs will be OEM then, and the Software should be the latest if a new engine fitted.

 

I take it since your car is a 2013 that Service Campaign '34H5' was done on the DSG, a software update, 

but check that with Skoda UK or a dealership.

it probably does not and did not show here.

http://skoda-auto.com/services/recall-actions

 

I would be looking at a APR Stage 1 done where ever has a Dyno for a before and after.

With a new engine if you have a warranty i would leave doing that or a Tuning Box a while to see that all is OK with the engine.

 

Dirt on the Supercharger is not an issue IMO, just not worth doing, you are unlikely to get any performance improvement.

If Heat Soak is an issue, then there are other causes. 

 

If you have a new engine then that should mean the Oil Spray Jets upgrade so good.

Should be no chain issues, so good.

Old Water Pump though, but maybe new belts fitted, so good.

 

PS

@dandanfings

would be the last person to listen to about Twincharger performance IMO considering his posts and threads here 

and total lack of sympathy with Twinchargers or as it appeared an understanding of them.

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/314712-vrs-complaints-2013-model

 

PPS

Throwing money at them and getting more noise and no better performance makes no sense to me.

Easy enough to get to stage 1 or 2 with as car that is still reliable and without spending loads or having lots of show without much go.

Good exhaust mods, Bigger Intercooler, good air intake, a DV+, Remap, a switchable one, good ignition coils / spark plugs, oil, fuel etc.

£1,000 -£1,200 is enough if you are doing it with some labour from people in business.

Then the brakes / suspension.

On Special occasions or the 1/4 mile / track use 102 ron like Hiperflo 250.

 

Edited 30 March, 2019 by Skoffski

[Ootohere]

I drove this first car in the link with the CTHE & the Bluespark Box and it was quicker than my CAVE with a APR Stage 1 at the time.

But then my engine never had issues and still goes strong.

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/322733-bluespark-tuning-box

Long term members here with positive experiences. There are more around.

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/322022-bluespark-review-happy

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/408595-fabia-vrs-performance-with-bluespark-tuning-box

 

Edited 30 March, 2019 by Skoffski

[RezaVrs]

Ive pretty much always got TC off. I think my best launch was TC off, sports mode engaged, release the brake allow the car to roll to 2-3mph and then floor it without touching the pedals.

really thinking of getting a Stage 1 done today even.

 

any advice on how to achieve pops+bangs from the exhaust? Decatting? Larger downpipe? Ive got 2.25inch cat back

 

https://youtu.be/crfEiOi1-u8 

somehow this guy has managed to achieve that but i’ve not been able to figure out how

please let me know ^^^

 

im not too fussed about BHP figures. The reason i bought the dragy device is so i can time my best 0-62mph before doing mods and then after the mods to see just how different the cars accelration becomes. BHP to me is nice to know but there are alot of cars out there with 200-300bhp but with a 0-60 time of 8 seconds meaning my little 180BHP vrs is quicker; point is IMO 0-60 is more valueable than BHP figures 

 

 

[RezaVrs]

8 minutes ago, Skoffski said:

I drove this first car in the link with the CTHE & the Bluespark Box and it was quicker than my CAVE with a APR Stage 1 at the time.

But then my engine never had issues and still goes strong.

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/322733-bluespark-tuning-box

Long term members here with positive experiences. There are more around.

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/322022-bluespark-review-happy

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/408595-fabia-vrs-performance-with-bluespark-tuning-box

 

Really got me confused

earlier you recommended getting the Stage 1 over the blue spark but now you’re telling me many good things about blue spark

 

really unsure what to do now 

[Ootohere]

http://goapr.com

That is who has the experience, but go to a good dealer with gear and more than ideas.

 

Because the Remap is what you want, the BlueSpark box did the job, just a bit iffy for some.

People that change their plugs, know what they are doing, listen to the guys at BlueSpark etc.

But i would not run plugs with a 0.6 gap in a CAVE or CTHE.

 

Sorry no idea about pops bangs and other attention drawing crap. 

To me it usually means there is something not right with a 1.4TSI Twincharger so not running very well.

All a bit of a shame.  Show without go.

 

Edited 30 March, 2019 by Skoffski

[RezaVrs]

Not really attention drawing crap, having any exhaust mod done to make it louder/gain performance in that case should also be considered ‘attention drawing crap’

opinions vary

would be nice if my opinion could be respected as opposed to be called crap

Edited 30 March, 2019 by RezaVrs

[Ootohere]

Each to their own.   You do not need more noise from induction or exhaust to get them quicker. 

Edited 30 March, 2019 by Skoffski

[FlexibleMouse]

Removing the insulation from the supercharger will give no performance benefit, just more noise. If you do, you need not worry about anything getting into it because it is a sealed unit.  As George said a remap is better if funds allow, but if not then a blue spark box will do the job adequately.

[RezaVrs]

33 minutes ago, FlexibleMouse said:

Removing the insulation from the supercharger will give no performance benefit, just more noise. If you do, you need not worry about anything getting into it because it is a sealed unit.  As George said a remap is better if funds allow, but if not then a blue spark box will do the job adequately.

Thanks for your reply

what would i gain from a map that the blue spark doesnt give?

IMO i’d think the blue spark would be a better option as should anything go wrong you can unplug it easily

[Ootohere]

The link i did with the CTHE with a BlueBox was an early CTHE, correct plugs, recommended gap, Tony Banks exhaust, then it had issues and the Warranty was knocked back even with the box removed.

 

Best get your car on a Dyno, check what software it is running before doing anything IMO.

There is various software, and CTHE's near 200ps as standard. 

Yours might well be near that.

[FlexibleMouse]

The remap will produce a bit more power and possibly quite a bit more torque than a box. Firstly bluespark boxes can't alter the timing or the air fuel ratio, so already the potential gains are smaller. Also the dsg apparently has some sort of torque limiter which can be bypassed with a map.

 

I opted for a tuning box because it provides 90% of what a remap wouldat less than half the cost. Also i can remove it in minutes, sell it on very easily and it is a little easier on the engine and clutches (as the torque is lower).

Edited 30 March, 2019 by FlexibleMouse

[RezaVrs]

I currently dont have an official Skoda warranty but I do have a warranty in place with the official skoda dealership (its their in house one) 

so ive checked and making any mods will not invalidate the warranty

What price would it cost to get a dyno check done and where would i do that around London?

 

[RezaVrs]

15 minutes ago, FlexibleMouse said:

The remap will produce a bit more power and possibly quite a bit more torque than a box. Firstly bluespark boxes can't alter the timing or the air fuel ratio, so already the potential gains are smaller. Also the dsg apparently has some sort of torque limiter which can be bypassed with a map.

 

I opted for a tuning box because it provides 90% of what a remap wouldat less than half the cost. Also i can remove it in minutes, sell it on very easily and it is a little easier on the engine and clutches (as the torque is lower).

So you’ve got the blue sprk box am i correct?

effectlvely ive got a caught from a loca guy that does chips for £250 which is only £75 more than the blue spark, if you guys are recommending that over the blue spark as it would give better torque, throttle response and power then i might as well just do the map?

[Ootohere]

@RezaVrsDo you have the Warranty Policy booklet and that is what you checked?

I have not seen a Warranty that did not say Modifications had to be approved.

That is with various like the old Skoda Approved Extended Warranty from Car Care Plan LTD and the Skoda Extended.

I still have booklets about for them because i used to rely on the warranties until i was sure a car / engine was OK then never expected a Warranty to cover a Remap, 

& as for a Tuning Box i would never use one expecting to then sign a Warranty Claim saying i had not used Hardware or Software that had not been approved.

 

?

Does the local guy that does chips have experience of Remapping Twinchargers?

REVO managed to create a rubbish remap for Twinchargers, they are not the only ones that have.  

 

If you have someone you can trust then fill your boots. 

Edited 30 March, 2019 by Skoffski

[Ootohere]

Maybe someone with a Remapped CTHE will be able to comment. 

Never been that many that have come forward on this forum with info on their remapped CTHE's.

 

@Grantwebster  has.

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/302195-mk2-vrs-late-2012-on-cthe-14-tsi-engine-remap/?page=3

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/408960-fabia-2vrs-cthe

 

Edited 30 March, 2019 by Skoffski

[FlexibleMouse]

29 minutes ago, RezaVrs said:

So you’ve got the blue sprk box am i correct?

effectlvely ive got a caught from a loca guy that does chips for £250 which is only £75 more than the blue spark, if you guys are recommending that over the blue spark as it would give better torque, throttle response and power then i might as well just do the map?

 

Yes I have the box, if you can get a cheap map then by all means go for it! 

[Grantwebster]

What's people wanting to know?

[RezaVrs]

8 hours ago, Skoffski said:

@RezaVrsDo you have the Warranty Policy booklet and that is what you checked?

I have not seen a Warranty that did not say Modifications had to be approved.

That is with various like the old Skoda Approved Extended Warranty from Car Care Plan LTD and the Skoda Extended.

I still have booklets about for them because i used to rely on the warranties until i was sure a car / engine was OK then never expected a Warranty to cover a Remap, 

& as for a Tuning Box i would never use one expecting to then sign a Warranty Claim saying i had not used Hardware or Software that had not been approved.

 

?

Does the local guy that does chips have experience of Remapping Twinchargers?

REVO managed to create a rubbish remap for Twinchargers, they are not the only ones that have.  

 

If you have someone you can trust then fill your boots. 

The skoda dealer which i bought the car from gave me a year extra warranty as they replaced the engine last year and because of the hassle i received regarding some other things. The warranty is not an official Skoda Warranty so my local skoda dealer checked their system and told me if you do mods to the car, because its not an official Skoda dealer warranty, it wouldnt invalidate the warranty. Say for instance, ive modded the exhaust, should something get messed up like oil consumption not related to the exhaust that would be covered in the warranty, they just wont have any warranty in place for anything thats modded so if i mod the engine then thats not covered but nothing would stop me from undoing the map and if the problem persists then there’d be no trace of the map and they’d have to accomodate that issue. 

 

The local garage who is gonna do my map has done many VW polo GTI’s he said he has done many 1.4 TSI twin chargers so he is pretty experienced and has tons of good reviews check it on google its Unique Tuning Hayes. He also told me that he recommends mapping the gearbox to release full potential as it goes well with the engine map. 

 

Another question, he told me (after i explained what i wanted i.e better flow & pops + bangs) to remove the cat completely. Now im abit scared of doing this, A its not lawful and B its a permanent job so once its done it cant be undone. To do this or not to do this?

 

also, k&n airfilter has been reputable and he said to get one. He explained that the paper filter is restricted but the k&n filter is cotton allowing better airflow. Carwow guy, Matt dyno’d his 2001 porsche i think, and it made around 270 bhp but when he stuck a k&n air filter and dyno’d it the car LOST power!? So again to this or not? 

https://youtu.be/GK329_MhMuM

thats the link

 

let me know!!

[RezaVrs]

7 hours ago, FlexibleMouse said:

 

Yes I have the box, if you can get a cheap map then by all means go for it! 

Have you got the CAVE or CTHE engine?

what gains have you got BHP figures or 0-62 times?

did you immediately notice power gains/better throttle response?

 

i just hate the fact that when you’re cruising at like 30-40mph in 5th gear when tou stick your foot down it takes at least 2-3seconds for it to drop down to 3rd/2nd gear and pick up the power i just wish it did it quicker and got better response from the car

[Ootohere]

As to the Warranty, they do not pay out £4,000 or so the Underwriter does, and good luck if an engine was needed on getting rid of trace of the remap from the ECU.

What some do is have a 'spare ECU', because Dealers or Underwriters are not stupid, and then false claims is fraud.

 

Nothing special with a K&N filter, the paper one is not restrictive.

I use K&N for offroaders, great where H20 will be a problem, or dust etc, Open engine bay type things.

Dirty K&N's stangle engines and poorly treated ones are rubbish. 

Plenty choices in intakes. Pipercross or Green Cotton Performance filters have been popular.

The Polo GTI battery is in the boot, maybe move yours and get  good filter on and cold air intake.

 

Ask which actual age of 1.4 TSI Polo GTI's he has done, again a few different ECU's were used, but all can be unlocked.

 

If you keep doing research you will see it has all been done on VW, Audi, SEAT & Skoda twinchargers and plenty have experience, 

if your guy is good then great.

 

 

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/437031-vrs-intake-and-bits-in-the-uk-for-australians

You will see the K&N cone filters in the link.

Used like this they are good when kept clean and with air flowing.

 

 

 

Edited 30 March, 2019 by Skoffski

[FlexibleMouse]

7 hours ago, RezaVrs said:

Have you got the CAVE or CTHE engine?

what gains have you got BHP figures or 0-62 times?

did you immediately notice power gains/better throttle response?

 

i just hate the fact that when you’re cruising at like 30-40mph in 5th gear when tou stick your foot down it takes at least 2-3seconds for it to drop down to 3rd/2nd gear and pick up the power i just wish it did it quicker and got better response from the car

 

I haveva 2011 CAVE with the Bluespark box, GFB DV+, a pipercross foam air filter, pilot sport 4 tyres and no bumper weights. The car produces around 205-215hp depending on ambient air temp. 

 

On a road surface it will do 0-60 in 6.0 with a sensible launch or 5.8 with a full throttle stomp (which i don't recommend doing often as you can smell the clutch afterwards). It does a standing quarter in 14.5@100mph.

 

Post your quarter mile time and it will tell you lots about your power to weight ratio and grip.