Hi all

 

Unfortunately due to a seized bonnet latch on my 2010 FL Octy vrs, I am in the unfortunate position of having to replace the whole bonnet as I’m going to have to cut the existing one. Can anyone suggest a decent breakers who would ship such an item and may have one in Silver to save adding spraying to the costs?

 

Help and suggestions appreciated as always, cheers

Are you sure you have to cut? 

 

On my 2005 O2  I think it can be done from the inside. Remove both plastic covers in the bumper (which holds the screws for the fog lights). Once removed, you can remove the black plastic part between the fog lights, causing a gap to the condensor. From there, there is pretty much space directly to the latch. With some luck you might be able to release the bonnet.

 

See picture. First remove both red pieces (snapped on) and then remove the green part exposing the ac condensor and a huge empty space.

 

don't know tho if thats any different from a 2005 regular O2 to a 2010 VRS.

 

Also, maybe just removing the plastic grill part? (don't know if you can source that seperately). 

Compete bonnet replacement sounds like a PITA, since you have to match paint color as well (and since its 9 years old, I won't be surprised if the colors are slightly off due to sunlight and stuff, even while the color/specs are identical while new)

 

Edited 12 June, 20197 yr by DJSmiley

12 hours ago, DJSmiley said:

Are you sure you have to cut? 

 

On my 2005 O2  I think it can be done from the inside. Remove both plastic covers in the bumper (which holds the screws for the fog lights). Once removed, you can remove the black plastic part between the fog lights, causing a gap to the condensor. From there, there is pretty much space directly to the latch. With some luck you might be able to release the bonnet.

 

See picture. First remove both red pieces (snapped on) and then remove the green part exposing the ac condensor and a huge empty space.

 

don't know tho if thats any different from a 2005 regular O2 to a 2010 VRS.

 

Also, maybe just removing the plastic grill part? (don't know if you can source that seperately). 

Compete bonnet replacement sounds like a PITA, since you have to match paint color as well (and since its 9 years old, I won't be surprised if the colors are slightly off due to sunlight and stuff, even while the color/specs are identical while new)

 

 

Good morning. Thank you for taking the time to reply really appreciate it. Both myself, my local mechanic and Skoda main dealer have tried exactly as you suggest. It would seem however that the cable is not the issue but in fact the latch has completely failed. This is of course very strange as I have had no issues with it before and no signs of failure. The good news is that I have finally managed to source a matching bonnet and fingers crossed the colour will not be too far out at least until I have chance to get it sprayed in. 

Can't you reach up and remove the bolts marked "6" in this diagram?

 

https://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk2/body/body_work/bonnet_flaps_cab_central_locking/engine_bonnet/summary_of_components_of_flap_lock_for_engine_bonnet/

 

Not standing by my car at the moment so not sure if possible but worth a try?

4 minutes ago, Golf-Fiend said:

Can't you reach up and remove the bolts marked "6" in this diagram?

 

https://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk2/body/body_work/bonnet_flaps_cab_central_locking/engine_bonnet/summary_of_components_of_flap_lock_for_engine_bonnet/

 

Not standing by my car at the moment so not sure if possible but worth a try?

 

Might be an option as well. Also, if you have another car in to have a peek, makes it a lot easier to compare and see.

 

Another option: On my O2 I can remove the cover behind the wheel. From there I think its possible to remove the window washer fluid box, giving a lot more space to enter the latch from the side

(On my car this is can be done from the passenger side, but my car is a LHD). Remove the wheel, remove the screws holding the cover, and gain access from there to the engine compartment

Just opened my bonnet to have a schuffti in case it ever happens to me, you can definitely access and remove the 2 bolts on the latch from the opening at the bottom of the bumper after the louvres are removed.

 

Whether it releases the bonnet lock hoop is another matter, if it doesnt the next thing to do is sacrifice the plastic grille at the front of the bonnet and then remove the chrome surround and Skoda badge, the lock hoop is right behind there, use of a prybar might release it, worse case you would have to cut through it with a hacksaw blade in a padsaw handle but the bonnet would not be damaged.

13 minutes ago, J.R. said:

...worse case you would have to cut through it with a hacksaw blade in a padsaw handle but the bonnet would not be damaged.

 

 

Yes, just been looking at mine and concur. Maybe smashing the front badge off and doing the above would be the best option. However how one replaces the locking hoop is a different matter! 

Yes now I have the foresight of what it looks like in there, if it happened to me tomorrow I would smash the badge off, maybe cut through the little tab of bodywork behind it and then set to with a padsaw, I reckon if you cut one side only you might then be able to force the bonnet up.

 

Probably having onbolted the latch from underneath with access through where the badge was you could set to the latch from the top with levers etc and get it to let go.

 

I agree rewelding the hoop will be tricky but personally I would rather do that than fit and respray another bonnet.

Thanks for your replies guys. I have sourced another bonnet however I am going to have another go at getting to the bolts marked 6 in that diagram and going through the grille. Apparently being a FL vrs makes it harder according to Skoda as you can’t go through behind the wheel as it’s all enclosed on the vrs models. Will post an update once I have sorted it one way or another

8 hours ago, Pods said:

Thanks for your replies guys. I have sourced another bonnet however I am going to have another go at getting to the bolts marked 6 in that diagram and going through the grille. Apparently being a FL vrs makes it harder according to Skoda as you can’t go through behind the wheel as it’s all enclosed on the vrs models. Will post an update once I have sorted it one way or another

 

I wouldn't bother with the bolts #6. From looking at mine even if you did get them out the lock will still be secured through the "U" locking hoop. The lock itself is under the slam panel and there is a plastic trim behind this which would need to be removed to get the lock out - which you couldn't do as it is still locked to the "U".  Hack it off and put your replacement bonnet on

That was also my thought on looking at mine but something is causing the lock to not release, the act of removing the fixings and pushing and pulling moving the lock in relation to the hasp may well release it, I am speculating that the lock may not even be broken, misaligned, under tension, foreign object inside etc.

 

Which reminds me, to the OP, have someone push down with all their weight or sit above the lock hasp while someone else tries the release handle or pulls on the cable, it could be that the bonnet was closed against something, a tool or dipstick rag which is putting tension on the latch.

 

Hacking the bonnet off really must be a last resort.

So having tried absolutely everything suggested here and many hours of scratched hands and arms I bit the bullet and sacrificed the bonnet. Thankfully I sourced another one in the right colour code which I think more by luck is a pretty perfect match. Interestingly enough the new bonnet catch kit appears to have a release catch inside which you could possibly get to from under the car with a hook of some kind where as the original one doesn’t so must be a design floor which Skoda have encountered a good few times before surely. As consolation I am also having bilstein shocks and eibach springs fitted at the same time to make me feel a little better lol! Just make sure you all keep those bonnet locks well greased guys as this has been a nightmare!

 

 

That'll T-Cut out, no new bonnet required

 

How did you overcome the transport problem for the replacement S/H bonnet?

 

Did you find what the problem was with the latch?

 

Congrats on getting one the right colour.

Found a small company who sent it via pallet line in the end which thankfully all went really smoothly with no damage caused in transit luckily. 

 

I was was wondering if I could pull it off as a new style bonnet vent..... never know it might set off a new trend lmao!

 

The problem was definitely that the centre lock mechanism had partly seized up. The cable was all still intact and connected but even once the mechanism was exposed, pulling on the cable right next to it did nothing and we had to butcher it with some less than gentle persuasion to free it up.

The cars are just too reliable, the bonnet was not opened from one year to the next on my MK1, it was finally run in at 25000 miles and stopped needing an oil top up between extended services.

 

My current MK2 has such capricious electrics and electronics plus the aircon failures that the bonnet mech gets lots of use, I will lubricate it though.

3 hours ago, J.R. said:

The cars are just too reliable, the bonnet was not opened from one year to the next on my MK1, it was finally run in at 25000 miles and stopped needing an oil top up between extended services.

 

My current MK2 has such capricious electrics and electronics plus the aircon failures that the bonnet mech gets lots of use, I will lubricate it though.

This is so true. Likewise the bonnet on my mk1 vrs was opened far less often than my mk2 it would seem. Still a great car tho so although it’s an annoyance I don’t begrudge having to spend the money to repair it 

Thats how I feel.

 

In fact the disadvantage of the MK1 being so reliable is that my knowledge base stalled completely 15 years ago, no new learning, forgot half of what I ever did know, lost all my muscle memory and techniques through not keeping my hand in, started to break fasteners that I did not even feel yielding etc.

 

So its been good to catch up but the novelty is beginning to wear off.

 

Ironically had the MK1 had more complex electronics or been less reliable I would have owned VCDS and would not have had to scrap it due to 3 of the doors becoming deadlocked.