Getting the Yeti ready for towing.

[darren1982]

Hello

I was wondering if you can advice on experience on a few things I need to buy to tow my Eriba caravan.

Tow bar - which one doesn’t set off parking sensors? Permanent or detachable? Can I get a tow bar mounted bike rake as I believe these are the better more secure ones?

Tow mirrors - which brand fits the yeti the best, easy to put on and most secure?

Roof box - any suggestions for good quality roof box?

Thank so much in advance 

[kenfowler3966]

You have to have the correct electrical towbar connections and recode the cars systems so it knows the towbar is fitted. This is essential so as you say rear parking sensors are not set off incorrectly, and more importantly the cars systems know when a trailer is connected so it can take this into account when the stability control software etc is activated. There is a factory fit option to make installing a towbar much simpler, but it still needs completing correctly if installed and the car coded to know it has a towbar fitted. It is unlikely your car has this option, complicating a post fit of a towbar.

 

If you fit a towbar for holding a bike rack, it is much more secure, but you will need a trailer board to replace any covered up lights or number plate to be legal. Personally I have had towbar system bike racks in the past, but now put them on a roof rack. It is so inconvenient to have to take it all off to open the rear door. It is quite practical to make up a roof rack with a box and space to carry a couple of bikes.

 

No short cuts to be safe and legal, and fitting a towbar properly to a modern car is an expensive process.

 

I had towbars on all my previous cars, but gave up when I got my first Yeti in 2010, as it I was only using it for a goods trailer by then and the £800 or so cost at the time was more than I could justify for the use.

[weasley]

As said above, best to get a towbar with the proper integrated wiring module; this is then coded to work with your car:

 

1. Disables the rear parking sensors when a trailer or lightboard is plugged in

2. The car monitors the lightboard for bulb failure and shows an error if one fails

3. The alarm is set off if the car is locked and the trailer plug is disconnected

4. The trailer stability program is enabled, helping to correct issues with handling in the case of a skid

5. It's just plain neater and tidier than the alternative, that is a 'universal' relay kit that is often connected to the car's wiring by <shudder> Scotchloks and renders the car completely unaware that a trailer is present.

 

In order to know which wiring loom and module you need, you need to know if your car has "Towbar preparation" fitted (this was an optional extra at the time of building the car).  If it is present then there is some extra wiring running from the fusebox (in the front) to behind the interior trim in the boot.  On the end of this wiring is a connector, into which you plug the trailer wiring loom and module.  I had towbar prep fitted when new and later added the towing module myself.  If your car doesn't have towbar prep then there is an extra bit of wiring that you have to fit from the front of the car all the way to the back.  Towing module options exist for both options, you just need to know which you need.  If your car has towbar prep fitted it should have the cut-out panel under the rear bumper and it will have some extra fuses in the fusebox related to towing.

 

Once you have the rack fitted you can use it for bikes, trailers, caravans - whatever a towbar is used for!  I had a removable 'bar simply because I preferred the cleaner look and no risk of catching my shins on the 'bar when not in use.

 

Also, don't forget to tell your insurers.  I did - it made no difference to my premium but at least I knew it was on record.

[Llanigraham]

Not a lot to add to the excellent advice given above.

I would strongly advise NOT going down the by-pass relay type wiring. Firstly these systems do not integrate with the car's systems as specified above and secondly they have been known to cause expensive problems with the VAG electronics.

And to be honest they are not that much cheaper than getting the proper system fitted.

Weasley's point 3 above can be very useful; if you route the trailer electrics cable through the wheels or frame of the bike then the alarm will sound if the cable is tampered with.

Most of us seem to be using the Milenco Aero clamp-on towing mirrors. They are easy to fit either to the top or the bottom of the mirror, are secure and do not wobble even at speed.

 

Sorry but can't help on the roof box.

 

If you tell us what your location is I am sure that someone might recommend a fitter. I used PF Jones, who have nationwide fitters, most of whom are excellent and have the full reprogramming equipment.

[darren1982]

That’s everyone!

 

im not sure but will these guys be the right people to do it? My local Skoda use them.

 

http://www.philtaylortowbars.co.uk/

 

the recommend the westfailia or Witter detachable flange for my purpose

 

[Llanigraham]

Think I have seen their name come up on here in the past.
Westfailia are the Skoda approved and recommended ones, but there is nothing wrong with Witter.

Can I suggest you add Hampshire as your location.

[idleness]

2 hours ago, darren1982 said:

That’s everyone!

 

im not sure but will these guys be the right people to do it? My local Skoda use them.

 

http://www.philtaylortowbars.co.uk/

 

the recommend the westfailia or Witter detachable flange for my purpose

 

Thats who did mine, its a westfalia, I drove from the midlands to get it done there as they were way cheaper and better than any of my local ones

Edited 8 July, 2019 by idleness

[eribaMotters]

Darren,

I towed my Eriba's, Familia and Triton, for 5 summers with a  2.0L110bhp diesel Yeti. I used Milenco aero mirrors and you will find the optional foot pads offer a slightly better grip. Mine had a detachable Skoda/Westfalia hitch which worked well. Make sure you get the 13 pin dedicated vehicle specific electrics and specify power needed for fridge and battery charging.

If you want to know anything else specific about this combination then please PM me. I have owned these vans since 2003.

 

Colin

[darren1982]

4 hours ago, idleness said:

Thats who did mine, its a westfalia, I drove from the midlands to get it done there as they were way cheaper and better than any of my local ones

Thank you! Thats made me feel better about it

[darren1982]

2 hours ago, eribaMotters said:

Darren,

I towed my Eriba's, Familia and Triton, for 5 summers with a  2.0L110bhp diesel Yeti. I used Milenco aero mirrors and you will find the optional foot pads offer a slightly better grip. Mine had a detachable Skoda/Westfalia hitch which worked well. Make sure you get the 13 pin dedicated vehicle specific electrics and specify power needed for fridge and battery charging.

If you want to know anything else specific about this combination then please PM me. I have owned these vans since 2003.

 

Colin

Yeah another Eriba owner. Love these Caravans and i'm so glad you had no issues with the Yeti towing. Getting the Westfalia hitch and 13 pin so thank you! 

[muddyboots]

We use a towbar-mounted bike carrier on our Superb.

It's an Atera Strada DL, and we carry three bikes on it for holidays.

Very secure, and it slides right back out of the way so you can open the boot and get to it just fine.

I did try a similar Thule one before buying the Atera, but found the Atera easier to mount and a bit lighter too.

If you get one, set aside an hour or two before your first trip and practice getting all the bikes on - can be fiddly first time to work out how to get all the restraint bars threaded through the frames, and the bikes lined up, so they can't rub against each other. Then get a photo of it to remind yourself how you did it...

To make it easier, I slacken the stem bolts on the kids bikes and rotate the handlebars 90º so they're inline with the front wheels. Just remember to take the allen key with you

The towbar on our Superb has a substantial eyelet built in, through which I thread a decent quality padlock, and to which I attach a thick security cable threaded through all the bikes. And then put a couple of good quality D-locks between the frames. Reduces chance of theft  a bit.

 

For day-to-day use though, I just put my mountain bike on the roof of my Yeti. I have Thule aerobars and a Thule 598 carrier permanently fitted on the car, so I can just stick my bike on within a minute or two and head out. Just remember to watch out for height barriers. Although these carriers have locks, there are videos on Youtube showing how bikes can be taken off them in seconds even when locked, so if you're leaving the car for any time with a bike on top, stick an extra lock on (I thread a D-lock through the rear wheel and round the roof bar).

 

Roof box...we use a Kamei Corvara 390, have had it for about 6 years now, they were recommended by the roof box company at the time as having the most useable space inside (compared to others advertised as having the same volume) and being the most durable. It's one you can open from either side, which can be pretty useful. It's had lots of use, but still looks as good as new. Has never let a single drop of water in, despite motorway speeds in a lot of torrential rain. Well recommended and you'd probably double the luggage capacity of a Yeti!

[Llanigraham]

6 hours ago, muddyboots said:

We use a towbar-mounted bike carrier on our Superb.

 

Try routing the lighting cable through the wheels/frames of the bikes. If your car has been correctly re-coded unplugging the cable when the car alarm is on will make the alarm sound, so providing extra security.

[muddyboots]

13 hours ago, Llanigraham said:

 

Try routing the lighting cable through the wheels/frames of the bikes. If your car has been correctly re-coded unplugging the cable when the car alarm is on will make the alarm sound, so providing extra security.

Interesting idea, will look next time - though I doubt there's enough slack in the cable to reach the bikes.

[kenfowler3966]

17 hours ago, Llanigraham said:

 

Try routing the lighting cable through the wheels/frames of the bikes. If your car has been correctly re-coded unplugging the cable when the car alarm is on will make the alarm sound, so providing extra security.

It will sound the  alarm, but it is not a visual deterrent that a cable and lock is. The thief will not be expecting the alarm will go off if he disconnects the trailer cable, and even once it is going off he may well continue to leave with the bike.

[Llanigraham]

As I said it provides EXTRA security.

[weasley]

I think it's a great idea - I hadn't thought of it and will look to see if I have enough slack cable to do it next time I use the rack.  I also use a D-lock and cable to secure the bikes to the rack if I know they will be left out of sight.

[modmytop]

Phil Taylor (Horndean Hampshire) fitted a tow bar to my Berlingo, about 15 years ago. About 12 years later the metal plate holding the twin electric sockets snapped. This was due to it being bent back by other half, then straightened by me. Anyway decided to get it replaced. Took it to Phil. When they saw it was one of theirs, they replaced it FOC! That's great customer service.

Edited 12 July, 2019 by modmytop