Llanigraham

If those videos showed what the front wheels were doing they would be more useful. The Haldex will only engage (subject to a few other points which are not relevant atm) when slip is sensed in either of the front wheels. The ORB does NOT turn it on; it is on all the time just not engaged. And as soon as you reduce power it dis-engages.

I had them in my Yeti for 4 years with no failures, and have had them in my Niro for 3 years with no failures.

And I think you will find that the centre caps are universal to all alloy wheels.

All of which could, and have, occured with other makes of cars. They aren't specific to Skoda. Just look at any other car forums and similar faults crop up across the range.

Err?? You are replying to a thread in the YETI section of the forum and the OP specifically states he has a Elegance, a YETI model. How much more specific do you want it?

However a Karoq is not the same as a Yeti.

If you have the proper Skoda approved towing electrics then yes it will cause the Bulb Failure System to show an error on the trailer almost as soon as you plug the trailer in. I speak from experience! (Also been lots of threads on the Bailey caravan groups about this with VAG cars)

All H7 bulbs in that case

I read the opening post and see the perfect example of not meddling when you don't understand things!

My only slight concern looking at those pictures would be with the shock absorbers, but if nothing has been picked up on the MOT I wouldn't worry.

3M's double sided trim tape is excellent

Couple of checks to see whether it has been reprogrammed correctly: With trailer plugged in does the central screen show a trailer outline when reverse selected. With trailer plugged in do the reverse alarms sound when reverse selected (they shouldn't!) With trailer plugged in does the car's rear fog light not illuminate. There are others, but those are the simplest.

Should state on your V5

My first Yeti didn't have the Rough Road Package but I can confirm that although the undertray doesn't look very strong mine got numerous severe batterings on forestry tracks and was fine and surprisingly strong. The second Yeti had the RRP and the plastic "sump guard" was very strong and got similar batterings.

I'm not surprised your consumption has increased using those tyres. All AT tyres are known to do that due to the type of compound used and the "grippier" tread pattern. I used my Yeti's off road considerably, using the standard road tyres and never had a problem.

There are various air flaps in the ventilation system under the dash that close as you turn off the ignition. Mine used to make a noise for a couple of seconds.

Replace the pair!.

We've been down this street before. Waste of time, JR thinks he knows better than VAG about towing electrics!

I don't think there is any difference between the 2 or 4WD boxes.

The Adblue tank is where the "battery box" was previously located.

I hope that the bodged trailer wiring hasn't cooked the BCM!! Long ago there was a member that did this and he ended up having to spend a fortune on a new BCM and ECU. personally I wouldn't trust those Chinese lights.

Your first move should have been to check that all the aerial connections were clean and proper. Even just unscrewing the twig, cleaning and refitting it might improve things.

I'm shocked none of you have a Lego Yeti.

Err?? WTF??

Only had a short run in a DSG but I've found the DCT in the Niro very good. (REST OF MY REPLIES ARE IN YOUR QUOTE BECAUSE OF THE STUPID WAY THIS FORUM WORKS)