I have a Skoda Fabia MK1 classic 2006 (103,000 miles) which had the roll bar replaced 2 years ago.

 

On the motorway it sometimes sounds like there is a hole in my exhaust and is incredibly loud inside the car. I can't say if it's because i'm accelerating because my foot is always down just to keep the speed up  I'm wondering if it's because of the old suspension as it isn't always loud.

 

I've also included some information about my creaky suspension which is also intermittent. 

 

I have a creaking noise when going over large speed bumps (the ones that go all the way across) only in certain conditions such as when it's hot (but not always!) It doesn't make a creaking noise when going through pot holes however. For this i'm thinking it's the bushing/joints rather than the springs or thing in the middle of them (arm?) which are currently an MOT advisory for leaking and corrosion 

 

I only know to check the suspension by pushing down the corners and seeing if it bounces up correctly (which I think it does) and the car is relatively quiet in idle so I'd struggle to locate a hole in the exhaust? I'm looking to find a way to identify the problem(s), see if it's serious (mot fail) and how to fix it. All DIY

 

 

 

Edited 9 July, 20196 yr by OJSkoda

@OJSkoda - OK, a grab bag of mixed problems here:-

1. Suspension creaks which are worse in dry weather are probably due to dry bushes. You can lubricate these using brake fluid and see if the situation improves.
2. Your suspension check only tests the damper operation - Push down, release and the car should rise, then drop back to level.
3. The "sometimes noise" is a bu99er to diagnose exactly because it's intermittent. The usual first test for a holed exhaust is to put a hand across the exhaust tail pipe with the engine running, and see if the engine chugs or stalls out. If it doesn't then you need to investigate the system further. This requires, at minimum, axle stands or ramps, and preferably a body lift.

5 hours ago, KenONeill said:

 

The usual first test for a holed exhaust is to put a hand across the exhaust tail pipe with the engine running

 

 

Out of interest, how hot does an exhaust tailpipe get?

44 minutes ago, Jigger72 said:

 

Out of interest, how hot does an exhaust tailpipe get?

Not "burny burny hot" at idle.

7 hours ago, KenONeill said:

@OJSkoda - OK, a grab bag of mixed problems here:-

1. Suspension creaks which are worse in dry weather are probably due to dry bushes. You can lubricate these using brake fluid and see if the situation improves.
2. Your suspension check only tests the damper operation - Push down, release and the car should rise, then drop back to level.
3. The "sometimes noise" is a bu99er to diagnose exactly because it's intermittent. The usual first test for a holed exhaust is to put a hand across the exhaust tail pipe with the engine running, and see if the engine chugs or stalls out. If it doesn't then you need to investigate the system further. This requires, at minimum, axle stands or ramps, and preferably a body lift.

 

1. This won't fail an mot for the creaks? If not, i'll add it to the quirks of the car list 😛

 

3. I stuck my hand over the end and I couldn't make a full seal (I admit, i was using a glove..). Nethertheless, I waited about 30 seconds and nothing different happened except the car was quieter**1. Didn't stall or chug, nor did it sound like the fumes were leaking out elsewhere.

 

I'm limited to borrowing car jacks and I don't fancy sticking my head under the  car while supported by those. So I'll take it to the garage who can lift it up and see any holes. If they  do find any I'll get something to help repair.

 

I did notice that the tail pipe was covered in black soot. I'm not sure if this is because I just haven't cleaned it because it's hidden away, or something else.

 

 

**1 Sitting by the tail pipe and it sounds "holey" probably because i'm literally sat by the end. This goes away when the end is covered.

@OJSkoda - 

1) You can't fail an MoT for something like a creak as long as it's not from a broken component. I'm not certain, but if your's are weather dependent then they're not indicative of broken components.

 

3) Black soot on a tailpipe is normal these days, even with a petrol engine, so that proves nothing except that you don't detail... And you've taken my advice about making sure you don't try and use your ribs as a cat stand on board.

My mate has an Astra that was making creaking noises and it turned out to be dry drop links. I replaced those and the noise was gone.

1 hour ago, TMB said:

My mate has an Astra that was making creaking noises and it turned out to be dry drop links. I replaced those and the noise was gone.

I wasn't sure what they were so I took a quick google and I made a mistake in my first post. I had the  Front Anti-roll bar linkage ball joints (and probably anything that was needed) replaced. Is this the same thing?

 

1 minute ago, OJSkoda said:

I wasn't sure what they were so I took a quick google and I made a mistake in my first post. I had the  Front Anti-roll bar linkage ball joints (and probably anything that was needed) replaced. Is this the same thing?

 

 

Sounds like it, yes

13 hours ago, OJSkoda said:

I wasn't sure what they were so I took a quick google and I made a mistake in my first post. I had the  Front Anti-roll bar linkage ball joints (and probably anything that was needed) replaced. Is this the same thing?

 

Yes and no; drop links connect the torsion bar (aka ARB) to the suspension arms or uprights, but they rarely use ball joints because they only need one degree of freedom, not two.

24 minutes ago, KenONeill said:

rarely use ball joints

Ball joints on Fabia droplinks, both ends. Keep up Ken.

Yep, ball joint at top and bottom

9 hours ago, Tech1e said:

Yep, ball joint at top and bottom

That's super shiny. I've attached pictures of mine to show the comparison of what i'm use to seeing! 😛

 

Is there a reason you use brake fluid instead of, lets say WD40? I don't keep brake fluid 😞

WD40 is not a lubricant per se, it evaporates quite quickly and can attack rubber by softening it.

Noise problem has been diagnosed as a worn rear wheel  bearing. 

 

£95 for a good quality replacement fitted

 

I'm going to look at how difficult and what tools I need to replace it. Otherwise £95 isn't too bad?

Rears are very easy to fit.

 

^ For some reason he doesn't torque up the new bearing but the setting is 70 Nm then tighten a further 30 degrees.

 

I don't use garages except for MOTs but £95 for a decent bearing and fitting sounds OK to me. I always replace both sides at the same time but if on a budget I suppose doing one is acceptable.

 

 

 

Edited 12 July, 20196 yr by TMB

Well, my experience is that RH wheel bearings normally last years longer than LH ones. I suspect the reasons for this being that you're more likely to hit standing water with the LHS, and the LHS is loaded more on roundabouts.

I don't know how, but I ended up forgetting which side they said was worn.. 

 

So I tested them myself (the back wheels) (for future readers, here's how)

• Put something in front of your front wheels to stop your car rolling away
• Release your handbrake slowly. Don't let your car roll away!
• Lift up the back of your car, either both sides or one by one. I would say one by one is safer
• Roll your back wheel and listen for sounds

I rolled the passengers side first and I heard some rubbing noises so I thought that was it. But ah, I tried the other side and the wheel was wobbling and making a fair amount of noise (a bit like a wobbly washing machine). I'm surprised I never heard it before. But this side also had a rubbing sound so that could've just been the drum brakes on both sides.

 

I'm going to try and repair it myself as the part is only £20 (cheap and cheerful). The video looks simple but i looked elsewhere and there were a lot more steps to it, but i'll learn as I go along. 

 

I was going to attempt to write a "How to guide" once it's done. There's a fair amount of material but I thought some new pictures might help somebody?